Bought some "Gold Class/Rich Leather" conditioner/ cleaner for my wife's "leather" seats in her Toyota. Kind of hesitant to use in my Jag as I've seen posts about all kinds of foreign and exotic lotions.

The Meguiar's states it does not contain lanolin. So what's the deal? Is this stuff OK or do I need something else? I'm just talking conditioner here.

Thanks

 

I've used it......seats didn't dissolve or anything......smells okay........I'd use it again, but bought some Lexol this time. Seems about the same. Anything in the detailing section about it?

 

used meguiars for a few years on other vehicles and didn't hesitate when I got the jag - have had no issues with it.

 

It'll work fine. I know a guy who has used Meguiars Leather Conditioner for years and his leather is gorgeous.

He teases me for buying all the $$$$ exotic stuff when the results don't seem any better than off-the-shelf Meguairs. And, ya know what? He's right !

It's hard arguing with sucess :-)

Cheers
DD

 

Went to detailing site. nothing about Lexol or Mequiars. Only stuff about English goods, and hard to get stuff.

 

May I suggest that you take a look at the web site for Leatherique Restoration Products. Home Page | Leatherique Restoration Products

I have gone through more than a gallon each of both the restorer and the cleaner on a number of cars, and a large leather sofa and have been amazed at the results. The biggest benefit to these folks is that they will talk to you on the phone about your restoration issues. In addition, their dyes are compatible with their finish products and they will work with you getting the correct color.

No connection except for being a long time satisfied customer.

 

+1 on leatherique...fantastic stuff. I first used used lexol when I bought my car because I had some in the house for my office chair...used the lexol cleaner and conditioner...thought it was ok. But after reading other posts about leatherique I bought some and the difference is dramatic, so much better than the lexol...cleans better, seems to condition great! I highly recommend leatherique.

 

Leatherique is top grade. I'm especially fond of their "Pristine Clean" product. The Leatherique conditioner works well (over time) for softening dried leather....so long as it isn't too far gone.

I'm pretty well convinced, though, that if your leather is already in good condition any of usual products will keep it that way.....so I'm hard pressed to pay the price of Leatherique.

I've had great results with Lexol, too.

Cheers
DD

 

I use the combo cleaner/conditioner from Meguairs on the dash, but for strict conditioning, I use Zaino. (not to be confused with Draino)

Z-10 Leather in a Bottle: Zaino Store

I totally agree with Leatherique's cleaner and 'restorer' pack. That stuff brings out dirt and grime imbedded in the leather. The cleaner works really well, w/out being harsh to the surface.

 

I use Leatherique on both of my cars. I am now in the process of refinishing the drivers seat on my XK8 with their dye and crack filler.

 

I use Lexol for my cleaner. It works well and is easy to use. For conditioning I like Gliptone. Really softens the hides and leaves a very nice leather smell that isn't overpowering. Takes very little of the conditioner and it doesn't come off and stain your clothes.

 

Lexol has always worked fine for me as well. I've probably been using it for about 10 years on at least 5 different vehicles. Results are good and the price is right. I think the real key is to keep the leather relatively clean between treatments by wiping it down with a damp cloth every week or so. That strategy certainly has worked for the Katzskins leather kit in my 1999 Ram. I had that kit installed in early 2001 so it is 12 years old now and still looks and feels great....

 

I go the other way. The gliptone cleaner is great stuff but the smell of the conditioner is too much for me so I use Lexol.

 

A short intro. I have been and am daily engaged in working with leather. I have a 23+ year business that cleans, conditions, does custom finishing, as well as produces custom leather goods.

I have worked on everything but a Submarine.....literally. Cars RR to Toyota, Auburn boat tail speedsters, Aircraft, Yachts, furniture, garments.....etc.....even Dirigibles.

I'm sure you get the picture.

My 20+ years of experience says there is no better product than LEXOL cleaner followed by LEXOL conditioner. The parent company to LEXOL is Summit Industries and they specialize in making skin care products for quadra and paraplegic human beings.

There LEXOL product is literally made to human skin care specifications.

Good 'Ol' saddle soap with liberal amounts of 'elbow grease' is still very, very good as well.

The situation or 'problem' I see so often is that most people don't use either of these products in the most (recommended) productive way.

The key, short explanation if I may, think of the leather as a bundle of 'soda straws' with a pudding skin on the top. These soda straws, collagen protein fibers, get filled with daily 'stuff' and get stiff and stiffer as time goes on.

Here in So. Cal. I equate it to going in the Ocean and when you come out of the water if you don't rinse your hair it will get stiff from the salts left in it......same with the leather. The cleaners are designed to 'float' out the 'salts' (read 'stuff') that has accumulated in those protein fibers.....the ones that resemble soda straws in there ability to be filled up.

I say 'float' the 'salts' out because when you clean your leather you should not be 'close' with the soap, the water, and the 'elbow grease'

The cleaning soap.....saddle or (as I prefer) LEXOL cleaner should be applied with a wet sponge, not dripping....just soaked and then given a squeeze and lots of soap.

You should apply the water (via sponge) and soap in liberal enough amounts that you work up a lather akin to shaving cream on the surface of the leather. This lather will continue to 'drink into' the leather....keep applying more soap, water, and labor to create more lather until the lather 'free stands' on about 30 to 40% of the surface. Ringing out the sponge as you go to get rid of the 'funk' that you're 'floating' out of the leather.

When this is done the leather will feel much, much softer............no....you're not done.

This is 'dead skin'.....you've gotten all of the 'stuff' out of the soda straws/protein fibers
now it's time to re-hydrate it.....that's where the conditioner comes in.

Wipe off the, now, freestanding foam/lather.....and you can wait or not....chances are you're going to be looking for a break right about then as you have been 'at it' for about 2 to 4 hours.....yep......with LExoL (cleaner).....if you choose Saddle soap (very good stuff too) then you will have been 'at it' for 4 to 8 hours.....

Wipe off the free standing lather and then apply the LEXOL conditioner....by hand, with a small brush, pad, sponge....what ever your, now,.....very,very soft hands would prefer.

Put the LEXOL conditioner to 'to flood'.....don't spare the juice! literally slather it on and let the leather drink up as much as it wants. Don't be surprised if you repeat this 'slather it on' process 2,3 or more times....it's thirsty....let it drink it up.

When the leather will no longer absorb the conditioner....let it set for some time....30 min. to an hour or so. Now buff off what ever excess is on the leather as well as what ever haze has appeared and you now have correctly cleaned and conditioned leather.

If after this whole process the leather feels a bit sticky to the touch then what has happened is the 'soda straws' have been filled to overflowing ......like a muffin top.

Just take a small bit of the cleaner and give them a light (very light) cleaning this will remove the excess 'bloom' and then buff the leather off with a soft cloth.

That, Gentlemen and Ladies, 'fellow' Jag enthusiast, is the hundreds of years old, tried and true way to clean and condition/take care of all 'finished' leather

Remember: cleaning and conditioning your leather is like washing your dog out side except your cleaning and conditioning a 'dead cow'......don't spare the cleaner, conditioner, or elbow grease

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

First car 1957 XK140 DHC.....current Jaguar (and love it) 2003 S Type R Quartz exterior, light grey interior

 

Fabulous info MWI. Thanks! Guess I'll stop using the ACME stuff. (The Coyote said it would make my car go faster too! - lol)

 

I've been using Connolly Hide Food for 45+ years on Jags. No stink or residue and it will keep the leather soft & supple. Jaguar, Rolls Royce, & Bentley recommend it, so do I !


It's been around since 1878, they must be doing something right.

 

Yes, Hide Food is good stuff. There's more than one quality product out there. I suggest if you find one that works for you then that's a good thing. I've found Elbow grease is just about the main ingredient in taking care of your fine leather goods. That and preventative maintenance. Just like a valued and trusted Jaguar......ounce of prevention.....etc.

03 STR
911/993
various 2 and 6 wheel 'tools' of enjoyment

 

I completely agree with the above but . . . .

You have to accept the fact that automobile manufacturers quit 'dying' leather in the early '80's. Everything produced since is a vinyl 'paint' on the leather. Any of the several products mentioned are probably wonderful and effective if applied to the uncoated side of the leather. To do a restoration of the finish on deteriorated leather involves stripping the finish off the vinyl coated surfaces, then and only then 'conditioning' the actual leather. And then 'repainting' the surface.

Applying a conditioning product to the surface of a vinyl coated surface will not have much of the anticipated affect. The small caveat to that is that vinyl is very porous and some of the magic fluids will get through . . . especially if the leather is all cracked and worn.

I have restored two cars interiors after significant educational explorations. The leather interiors of our cars are a significant part of value of the vehicle. If you think that you can use a spray bottle of magic to restore your leather you should go buy a Prius . . . with a cloth interior.

Restoration of a 34 year old Volvo leather interior.

Volvos That RUN - Chapter 17 - Interior restoration - Turbobricks Forums



Restoration of a 35 year old Volvo leather interior.

Brand new '81 262C Bertone Coupe . . . - Turbobricks Forums Start with post #133

 

M.W.I
Great info thanks. Could you clear up or comment on something? You said saddle soap is a viable alternative. I've seen many many warnings about using it because of its caustic content and how it is likely to get stuck in cracks and crevices. These naysayers conclude that it will dry out and cause cracks in the leather.

Here's a good link / example: 20140903064140 (copy paste into Google )

In your opinion should one be all that worried about using saddle soap on a connelly leather seat? Are the specific ingredients to watch out for? From your experience are they all making a big deal about nothing?

Loved your post, but I've seen so many warnings about saddle soap I had to ask for clarification. Thanks, john

 

Regarding your question about Saddle Soap, cracks and such.

My experience with Saddle Soap and the way most use any leather care products is that they never use enough water with the product. Saddle Soap, like Lexol is just that soap and is to be used with liberal amounts of water.

When you use Saddle Soap you should think of how you would wash your face. The Saddle Soap is combined with enough water to make foam...and this 'foam' is what goes onto and into the leather. I've seen people rub the Saddle Soap straight onto their leather and then put just a bit of water with it so it almost looks like a cream.....no so grass hopper. This would be like moistening your face and then rubbing a bar of soap across it until your skin is 'coated'

The water and Saddle Soap should be used together to make a foam on the leather....just like the foam generated in a vigorous hand, face, or hair washing. It's the foam generated that drinks into the leather and 'floats' out the 'gunk'

Liberal amounts of Saddle Soap and water to produce a good foam are used over and over until the 'foam' produced stops drinking into the leather. It's the 'foam' that lifts out the contaminates. You should be rinsing out your sponge, cloth or tool of choice as you use the Saddle Soap/water mixture to produce the working 'foam'

This entire Saddle Soap process is repeated until the 'foam' will no longer drink into the leather and the water coming out of sponge, etc. looks pretty clean.

The foam will actually end up being 'free standing' on the leather when it's 'done' and just like washing your face....you'll know.

Hint....foam doesn't have the body to stay in cracks.....and an over all light wet wipe down/rinse is the last step out side of a nice 'buff off' when it is all dry.

This is a labor intensive project as in many hours and more than one 'tin' of shoe polish size Saddle Soap. To correctly and thoroughly Saddle Soap the complete interior of my 1978 911 SC would be a 4 to 6 hour job.....considering it was done on a fairly regular basis you can see a 'first time' job is going to require a bit of dedication.

Sally forth......I hope this gives you a bit more clarity.

Bottom line Saddle Soap....not Saddle 'paste'.....lots of water....to foam....the foam does the work.


03 STR Quartz/Lt. Grey int.
first 'ride' at 19 ....57 XK140
911 993
2 wheelers....U.S and German
and more.