No codes or check engine light, in fact just passed California emission test, but constant reoccurring symptoms as listed:

1) Minor short that causes battery to discharge in about 2/3 days.
2) Occasional electrical power loss giving P1000 code and stall but with immediate power resumption
3) ABS light and DTC message often comes on at startup then goes way.
4) Cat goes into reduced capability mode that clears after ignition turned off and car "rested" or battery charged to max over night.
and this makes me think ignition switch,
5) Occasionally odometer stays illuminated when ignition off.

The battery is OEM and new and kept fully charged.
I suspect fault in ignition switch but how to diagnoses?
Should I first find short by removing fuses one by one?

Thanks for any input.

 

The go to sleep command is the key in / key out pin 4 to 5 . LNA6507BA , try lubbing it first .

 

I think you have answered your own question. The battery is bad. Have the battery load tested. Dash warnings after start up and then disappearing are the first signs of a bad battery. Letting it rest and then things are better is a sign of a bad battery. Once you have replaced the battery drive it awhile and let it sit for a day or two and let us know what symptoms remain.
Troubleshooting the electrical will be difficult until you have a known good battery.

 

P1000 is NOT an error code. It is a STATUS code.

P1000: engine management OBD diagnostic monitor drive cycles HAVE NOT BEEN COMPLETED.
P1111: engine management OBD diagnostic monitor drive cycles HAVE BEEN COMPLETED.

You will always see one or the other of these codes. I don't think it is relevant to the issues you describe.

I do think you possibly have a marginal battery. Check and if necessary replace this first or it will frustrate attempts at troubleshooting. A below par battery is notorious for throwing all kind of weird electrical faults.

The power loss could be cables or connections to the main junction box in the luggage compartment.



Once you know you have a stable power source and continuous harness connections, then you can investigate the ignition switch.

Graham

 

Avern1 and GGG. Yes I know all about weak battery issues. That's why I said it is new OEM battery and it has been tested as perfect. I also have a high tech charger that monitors battery condition. The battery weakness is being caused by some short that is sucking power away from it. What I asked help with is identifying that drain.

 

Check the little trap door switch where the ignition key goes. It has be known to stick open and leave the car with the impression the key is still in. This leaves a bunch of systems powered up, and it drains the battery. It needs "lubrication", but remember the key will go in and out, and then likely in your pants pocket, so beware of graphite (stains!).

 

I have waited a couple of months to make sure all is well but Lady Penelope (who ever you are) got it right. All those seemingly serious problems cured with a touch of graphite on the ignition key unit cover door.

Thanks a million.

 

I'm Parker , M'Lady P's mechanic from the Bri - ish show " Thunderbirds " cartoon . Good to see your electrical problem resolved .

My Mom says I need to go to sleep now .