Have not driven the car for 3 weeks - and all of a sudden, got issues left and right.

DSC:
Got DSC system fault message with amber light yesterday. I drove it to an indy that I used to take the car for regular maintenance. I had the car scanned, fault code indicate ABS module. We got the code cleared, and the error message did not appear again until I got home - about 15 miles later.

The DSC came back again this morning when I drove the car to work, when I parked the car. When I was done w work and started the car to get home, no more fault.

Steering column:
Steering column lifts up and retract back - if that make sense - every time I turned off the ignition. Every time I am about to drive it, I have to make adjustment.

Top:
The top does not open but I am not getting any codes either. The rear windows went down when I push the button and it makes all the right noise and all - but the top just stays in place. When I push the button again, it makes all the right noise (again) as if it went through the motion of opening the top. No green monsters ... knock on wood.

I went to Autozone just to check the battery. The tech put 825 rating on his tester - and the result showed that battery is 60% charged - after about 15 minutes of driving. I expected better result - but then again - the windows hold their position - usually windows are the first to go out when it's a weak battery.

Just for the heck of it - I had the Autozone tech hooked up his scan tool as well just to see if there are new error codes - it returns code P1111, not sure what that is - I think that may not be an error code if my memory serves me right .... ?

I read quite a bit about people having DSC fault together with ABS warning - but I've never seen the ABS warning at all. All I see is the amber light, which sometimes I see during hard cornering, or wheel slipping - driving fast over railroad crossing usually triggered that light, so did flooring the car from a hard stop.

I was a bit confused too about ABS module from yesterday scan. If it is indeed the module, I would expect amber light continuously rather than intermittent. Maybe it is the wheel speed sensor ... ?

Have not done anything with the car yet - want to try hard reset of the battery but not sure with 60% charge if that's advisable. I am most concerned about top mechanism not opening up.

Some background:
The car was at a body shop for trunk lid and bumper replacement, some dude rear-ended the car while I was on stop and go traffic. That's why it was sitting for 3 weeks. They're not disconnecting the battery - as far as I know and as far as the shop's admission. The body work though is really good, colors are matched and the shop does have great reputation.

 

Until the battery is fully charged, it's all just guess work. It would take a lot of driving to get it there, better put a charger on it for a couple of days, but not at high rate.

 

Agreed. Given your description of the issues, the initial suspect is always the battery....

And your P1111 code is normal, essentially meaning the OBDII tests properly completed....

 

Out of curiosity - what happened if I hard-reset the battery while it is not fully charged, say it is at 70-80% range?

I have not seen the DSC fault message anymore - now it's the passenger air bag code, 1-5 blinks, then on solid. The airbag light used to do that long long time ago .... but then stopped for more than 2 years before it showed up again yesterday. This voluptuous cat really has a mind of her own and I guess she's exercising that now ......

The inability to open the top is what bothers me .... It seems like the windshield latch mechanism is not dis-engaging, but it forgot to tell the rest of the other top components.

 

When the battery is low, there are some commonly seen faults, but there is also an element of unpredictability. You can run in circles trying to resolve the issues until the battery situtation is addressed, even after a reset.

Also, regarding the top, have you checked the fluid level, and also that the petcock on the pump has not loosened and is firmly clockwise?

 

Stupid questions:
1. How and where do I need to check for the fluid level?
2. Where is the pump petcock - and what position that it should be?

 

I read some of the previous thread and from some of resources available from the FAQ section.

So it seems like to get to the roof hydraulic components (pumps, relays etc) I have to remove the trunk liner. In order to do that - I need to loosen all the clips on that liner as pointed on the picture?

Also - I took a screen cap from TSB 501-11, and I found a failure mode that's is most closely matched what happened to my car. Low voltage is #1 as the probable cause. I think I'll drive the car for a while and see. Come to think of it - maybe a new battery may not be a bad idea. I think I still have an original unit - which is amazing considering that it is a MY2003 car. My 05 Accord is already on its 3rd battery.

Am I on the right track here?

 

To get to the hydraulic pump for the top you really do not need to remove the plastic piece where you drew circles. All you need to do is pull back the stiff material that is fore of that piece. You can pull that material which is pretty sturdy by flexible without removing anything else, although it is sometimes easier to first remove the similar material that is in the trunk right behind the rear seats (pulls right out).

Doug

 

Thks Doug - so essentially the liner that also in-a-way framed the CD magazine and the Nav player? That thing just pulls right out?

 

Right--that liner that covers the CD and NAV also covers the pump and could be pulled back to gain access to the equipment rack that supports all of those items. While you are doing that you might also consider installing a check valve on the pump if there is not already one on it.

Doug

 

Bob, it pulls right out, but much easier if that tail light cover is taken off first.

 

Thks Matt and Doug - will try that come Monday. I am going out of town and not be back until Sunday night. Have not gotten a chance to remove that liner and check the hydraulic components and the relays.

I think I can rule out any low voltage/battery issue. I got the battery checked at an auto parts store, and the result looks good. I'll do one last check on Monday. I have not gotten any DSC message and the dreaded 1-5 blinking passenger airbag light has not been on anymore since yesterday as well - knock on burled walnut wood.

The steering column still moved back when I removed the key - but I got my driving position stored in memory so as soon as I turn the key to on, it moves back to my position.

More and more I am leaning towards the hydraulics .... I'll post whatever I find here.

 

Don't completely rule out your battery. If it is several years old and managed to mostly discharge while the car sat for repairs, I would keep it on my suspicious list for the time being. Many weak or compromised batteries reported on this forum continue to be able to pass the various battery tests that stores and shops conduct on them, yet still prove to be insufficient to be able to deliver the massive power consumption these cars require....

 

I pulled the side trunk liner out to take a look at the roof pump. It looks like both connectors at the top are seated correctly, and the positions are correct as well. I also check the pressure valve (not sure if the term that I use is right) - the one with the T-looking head - and it is at the position where I cannot turn it clock-wise direction anymore - which is the right position for auto-operation.

I am also a bit confused - I have to really scoot down and sideways to look at the top hydraulic connectors position.

I look at Gus' site:
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

It looks like the placement of the nav, Cd mag and pump is much easier to access ... ? On mine, if I wanted to look at the top, I really have to move the whole CD mag, nav box and hydraulic pump out first since the rear quarter panel is on the way.

Also - I started looking at the fuse/relay box on the trunk. Does it normal to look like the way it does on the picture?

I also noted that based on the way the roof operates (according to TSB 501-11), seems like the roof does not perform step 3, but still going through the motion of step 5-7 (or at least attempt to).

Also - still a question abt battery - wondering if hard reset will do any good? I have 4 different auto stores check the battery - 2 said bad (even though the amperage and voltage looked fine), 2 said good. I'm just hesitant on blowing $150-ish on battery when I don't need to. I have not had any other symptoms (window drop, flickering light, long start etc) so I think the battery still have some good life at least. Last check (this morning) showed that the battery is 84% charged (per Autozone tool).

 

You did not mention the fluid level. Is it between the two embossed lines on the pump's translucent tank?

Yes, cars with nav. have more difficult pump access.

The missing relay in the fusebox is normal...it is only for an optional auxiliary power outlet.

The problem with a weak battery happens during cranking, when the voltage drops due to the heavy load from the starter, and goes below the threshold needed to properly operate the electronics.

 

Thks Steve - but looking at the hydraulic level according to the embossed lines, I need to do that when the top is down, correct? I thought that when the top is up, some of the fluid should be out of the tank, yes?

I took the car to my indy shop since I got the DSC message again, and the err code is consistent - steering angle sensor. Before that, I had the battery measured while idle - it is def above 12V.

I will drop off the car tomorrow - just let the pros look at it. There's too much thing at work etc ... afraid that if I try more DIY it will never get fixed.

 

It does not matter what position your roof is in to check the level of your fluid just fill it to the top line. The info in the Jaguar book on the fill lines is wrong.

You can fill the hyd tank with it still mounted in the car. If yours has a CD it makes a bit more difficult but not impossible just use a device like this http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...os/Syringe.jpg

First get your battery checked then top off your Hyd system then see how the roof operates.

 

Thks Gus.

Battery is fine. It is the steering angle sensor and ....... drumrolls ...... the green monster, except that the monster is still limited and not dripping yet ....

So off to the shop to get that fixed ....

 

Wait a bit. Pull off the top trim and look at the latch.
I've had a situation where the BPM gets confused and does something even more stupid than the dumbos who designed the soft top system allowed for - it puts full hydraulic pressure on the ram close side of the piston while closing the return from the other side - result is a drip past the latch ram rod seal - a few green drops via the console.
Check the hoses. With an inoperative roof you may just have my problem and you need to re-train the BPM - again look for Gus type instructions on doing this.