Hello all, it’s been a long time since I’ve been here. I previously owned an 04 x-type and was a regular poster… anywho, I just picked up a 97 xk8 hard top coupe with 68k mi on it for a price I couldn’t pass up. Trying to get it ready for passing MA state inspection. When I got it earlier this week, abs light was illuminated at all times, as well as stability control fault, and airbag light on at all times. We’ll it’s been sitting/barely used for the last few years, the night I bought it I took my kid and his friends for a ride and hammered the s—t outta it, only to find myself in limp mode and like 11 dtc codes lol. Here’s what I’ve done so far:

removed ecu and removed/replaced 5 of the seven capacitors( the last two are yet to be replaced im just waiting for package to arrive)

removed abs control module and reflowed the solder on the two main joints, one of which was broken

cleaned all four abs sensors

fixed the air intake so it sits properly

cleaned up the battery terminal connections and reinstalled


the problems I currently have and need to resolve are as follows:

I have a p1000 code, no communication to ecu
my scanner sucks, and this may be resolved when I solder in last two capacitors on ecu

abs and stability control fault still there
i found on the front two sensors there was an extra ground wire on the sensor between sensor and bolt, however both are definitely not stock as they were white wire with cheap crimp connectors and far end was attached to the brake lines. Any one know where stock Wire should be connected?

I removed both white ground wires and now have a c1175 code, left sensor I believe.

also, when opening drivers door, window goes down a bit, but not back up after closing. Passenger side is fine

battery is old and I’ll be replacing it tomorrow

car starts and seems to run fine, although gas is old I’m trying to burn it out before putting new gas and spark plugs in. I have read a lot of the info here as well as xk8 bible and I am by no means a dummy, actually a pretty good mechanic. Any thoughts, helpful info or tips greatly appreciated. I will post pics of the car soon too. Thanks

 

Cerainly not a dumb mechanic. Wait till you get the new battery on and do a re set.
Often a new battery could have been standing so a charge is always a good idea.

 

The window issue may be as simple as resetting. Hold window button down and continue holding until you hear slight click, then same with up.
ABS wheel sensors are two wire units, both wires run back to module. Neither is grounded at sensor. Sounds like a patch job.
Grab a 1997 electrical guide, all the pinouts and test readings in there.
As piston stated fully charged good battery is essential.

 

From the sound of it, sounds like you knew to peel back the gel coating that covers the joints. If you re-flowed it, I'm sure you did that.

When you did this, did you use the "cut a hole" technique, or did you split the whole case? I've heard there can be issues with the connecting pins breaking as well.

 

My 1997 has a general purpose ground wire located on the bolt for the wheel sensor either side. Try the reset procedure for the windows, if that does not work it may be the micro switch in the latch mechanism is faulty.

 

Barnter, this is exactly what I am referring to. Between the bolt and the abs sensors on both front wheels there is a ring terminal connected to a wire, but the other end of the wire is attached to the brake line connector. I can tell this wire on both sides is put in by a previous owner and not factory, due to the type and color of wire and the yellow colored crimp on ring terminals. I have also read that there SHOULD be this wire for 97 model years. However, I don’t think the location of the brake line connector is the proper place for the opposite end of this wire. Do you happen to know where yours is attached to? Maybe frame, ground post, etc?

 

Jim-, thanks for the tip, your simple window reset solved that small issue. Much appreciated.

also a small update on progress:

soldered in last two capacitors into ecu today, package finally arrived.

replaced battery with a brand new agm group 49, the one that came with the car was a group 48 Volvo battery from like 2016. Although it held a charge I went new, previous owner didn’t drive this car much and kept it on a trickle charger.

performed a hard reset after battery change (touchin negative battery wire to positive post wile pos. Wire still connected. Saw no changes

alternator test after new battery install is currently at 14.24v read at battery with dmm. Gauge on dash shows needle just about x touching the mark for 13

I will post more updates as they come along, but thanks everyone who’s commented or helped so far

 

This the same as mine, an early 1997. The ground wire runs to the frame at the brake line bracket. Two wires to ABS sensor, red and white on RHS.

 

Jim- so when I split the abs pump module, I used a razor blade to slice the old sealant between two cases. Also, I noticed on top of case at each of the four mounting bolts was a type of compression washer fitted over each “aluminum tube” the bolts went through and removed them. Make no mistake, this thing was a pain in the a— to open up, even stabbed myself in the thumb with a pick tool and got blood all over the unit and my bench…no gain without pain right? I then pried around it for about 20 min and finally got it to separate. I saw at least one bad solder joint on the two main inputs. I peeled the clear jelly off, cleaned with alcohol and resoldered both pins. I didn’t remove old solder though, as I don’t have a desolder tool and I was a good amount of beers deep(probably why I bled so much upon stabbing my thumb with pointed pick tool lol) anyway there were other areas of the board of concern, discolored but as far as I could see no traces broken and no other components were obvious to be of defect, although not fully tested. I may be pulling it off again soon… we’ll see. I also found a ground post on drivers side near abs unit and removed and cleaned up the ring terminals connected to it. I also today checked tire pressure and all four were between 31-33 psi, but the tires are Toyo and have a recommended cold psi at 51. I filled each to 44 as per owners manual and did quick test drive, with no change.

I am now back to the drawing board to re-evalute my next steps. I did notice the “cogs” or gears the abs sensors read off of are a little rusty, and may clean those up soon

i am trying to get a friend of mine with an auto repair shop to scan it for me with his 3k dollar scanner vs my 100 dollar piece of crap to try to clear some stuff and test certain functions to lead me in the right direction.

one last thing, I also noticed today after all aforementioned things I did that now my cruise control button under gear shift no longer lights up when pressed, but did previously

 

Is this the red coupe I saw on OfferUp a couple of weeks ago ? I'm in Western Mass and have the timing chain tools (camlocks and crank lock) if you need to change out your timing chain tensioners at some point.

PM me if you get to that job and you can borrow the tools, save cash and buy me beer instead.

 

No hell cat, it’s not that car…I just happened to stumble upon this one after going to look at a job for my business(I do excavating for underground utilities ie water and sewer Lines)

any way… big update!!!
I was scratching my head trying to figure out why abs module repair I did didn’t work, double checked a few things and then found a good post on abs module connector and pin out. Was going to take some resistance readings and unplugged the abs module connector. For Sh—s and giggles I took a look at the pins on the module and lo and behold, I found the problem. When wrestling the module back into place yesterday I bent the living Sh— out of three of the pins, because I didn’t remove the brake lines. Well I straightened those out and reconnected the harness and voila… stability control fault gone instantly. abs light still solid and airbag light solid as well as check eng. said f—— it, took it for a ride and literally every single light went away. Got down the hill and it stalled at the stop sign. (Probably the old gas) started back up and only airbag light was on. Did a few stop and shutoffs and key cycles now only thing illuminated is the air bag light which I haven’t done anything to address yet. Other than check fuses. That’s next to address so I can get this pony a sticker. Any suggestions welcomed, and thanks to all who have put in their 2 cents

 

Remember the three gauges ,other than the clock are fake gauges. The oil gauge does not read pressure it is only worked by the oil pressure switch. Similarly the voltmeter is fake ..reads 13v if the voltage is in the correct range set by the ECU . Your 14,26v is fine..over 14.4 the battery gasses and needs topping up.
You will still need a battery tender.
When you re connect the battery turn on ignition and move accelerator up and down to tell ECU the full travel....saves it learning

 

The P1000 code is not "no communications with ECU"!
It is a System readiness test for evap and emission, and states that it is not complete since last battery disconnect (or since last time you cleared fault codes)
After some driving cycles it will disappear and the P1111 will be shown instead, meaning that the system readiness test is completed and OK

 

This is not right. 51 would be max pressure. 30-32 is where you want to be

 

Quad, look st the decal under the center console. It lists PSI for your tires. As others stated, use this as Bible.

John