Same offer, but $201...

Around here (only 23 emissions test counties in NC), only one more year for emissions tests and you have one year to get emissions evaluated if purchased from out of state. So, no emissions tests for your car. So, your current problem would be irritating but not urgent around here.

That said, hope you sort it quickly.

 

So I was able to get ahold of a invoice and the purge valve was replaced with a LJG 151BB. So if I understand you correctly, I need to have the EMC programed if I use this one? Do you think it would be best if I just get the correct one?

 

It appears so.

On getting LJG1515AA, I tried to get a new AA about six months ago, talked with every vendor who seemed likely, no luck. There have been some available on ebay, if you want to go that route, but it is very unclear if it works and how many ebay parts have been under water. Some have VINs that can be checked, but not definitive.

Just curious, did they replace the EVAP valve right before you bought it?

 

it was replaced a year ago and and they also did the other valve at charcoal canister and it didn't solve the problem. So hen non oped it the car and it sat for a year until Friday when I bought it.

 

Frankly, this shouldn't be much labor if the updated programming is the only problem (or the first problem with the P0443 being the lead issue). Problem is, you may have difficulty getting the dealers to do it.

 

I added the filter that vent up to the bake booster last night. I reset the code and drove all morning and I thought I had it licked I had only three monitors left to clear. EVAP ( Witch in CA you don't have to have that one set). Comp Component and Catalyts. Monitor. Then i got the check engine light on with a P 0445 code. It looks like my car isn't connecting with the new EVAPP?

 

It sure doesn't sound like your car and EVAP purge valve are happy with each other. Did you check short to ground and the other electrical issues?

By the way, I would have been astonished if adding a proper filtered vent fixed it.

 

I have it at local shop that can do the ECU update for $125. I will start there and see what that gets me, I'm trying not to throw parts at it.

 

I picked it up for the shop after they updated the ECU. I still got the p0445 after driving it a short drive. I poked around and cleared the code and took it to the car wash, I though maybe a bath would make it happy. Then it threw p0105. Thought well that's a new one. I swapped out MAS with one off my 2000 XKR. Still got the code. I then I found the vacuum line was off the the MAP. Not sure how long has been that way. Does anyone know if that could be apart of the EVP problems I'm having? So now I'm back to trying to get the monitors to reset. The EVAP, Catalyst Monitor and Comprehensive Component Monitor still need to get those to clear after many miles. The only good news is there aren't any codes after 60 plus miles. I love a good puzzle but this one is killing me.

 

Seems like wait and see at this point. Just make sure the gas is between about 1/3 and 2/3 to keep the EVAP monitor being evaluated (officially 0.3 to 0.85). Reminder on the EVAP cycle (bottom line, could take a while and don't slosh, easier with WDS, but it will eventually tell you) below

EVAPORATIVE SYSTEM MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE

1 Ensure that fuel filler cap is correctly fitted and fully closed (minimum three clicks, clockwise).

2 Fuel level > 30% and < 85%.

3 Using WDS, perform ECM DTC Clear (even if no DTCs are flagged).

4 Drive vehicle for a minimum of 2 minutes, and until engine is at normal operating temperature.

5 Using WDS, ensure that the EVAP Canister Purge Valve is operating by observing “PURGE VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”. If the valve is not active, ECM adaptions have not been learned. Conduct a “green ECM” Drive Cycle as described in Technical Service Bulletin.

6 Drive vehicle to the road where the EVAP System Drive Cycle will be conducted. Stop vehicle and switch OFF the ignition. Leave ignition OFF for 30 seconds, then restart the engine.

7 Accelerate briskly to 80 km/h (50 mph) ensuring that the engine speed reaches a minimum of 3500 rpm for a minimum of 5 seconds.

8 (0.040 inch EVAP Test) View WDS “PURGE VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”, “CANISTER CLOSE VALVE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”, and FUEL TANK PRESSURE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”. Avoiding high engine loads, drive the vehicle steadily between 65 km/h (40 mph) and 100 km/h (60 mph). Avoid driving conditions that will produce excessive fuel movement. WDS should give an indication that the test is active (it may take up to 30 minutes before the test will initialize). When the test has initialized (EVAP Canister Close Valve CLOSED), it will take approximately 90 seconds for the test to complete.

9 (0.020 inch EVAP Test) Continue driving vehicle as explained in Step 8 for an additional 10 minutes.

10 Gently coast the vehicle to a stop. Allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes and view WDS “PURGE VAPOR MANAGEMENT VALVE – DUTY CYCLE”, “CANISTER CLOSE VALVE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”, and FUEL TANK PRESSURE – VAPOR RECOVERY SYSTEM”. WDS should give an indication that the test is active. When the test has initialized (EVAP Canister Close Valve CLOSED), it will take approximately 90 seconds for the test to complete.

11 If the 0.020 inch EVAP Test is not activated, the purge system vapor concentration may be too great. To reduce the vapor concentration proceed as follows:

12 Drive the vehicle for an additional 30 minutes avoiding driving conditions that will produce excessive fuel movement. Repeat Step 10. If the 0.020 inch EVAP Test is still not activated, repeat the Drive Cycle from Step 6.

13 Using WDS, check for and clear flagged DTCs.

 

Sooo, My closet friend is the service manager at my local ford dealer. I took the car there because it can't hurt at this point. They feel that the problem is, I have a bad gas tank. The pressure isn't being released. They say all lines and sensors and Evaps valves are working properly. Does anyone know or had any experience with a bad tank?

 

Did either of the the EVAP codes recur?

Not clear on the theory behind bad gas tank.

 

With a vacuum line off you've had no chance of monitors being happy.

So forget a lot of the wasted time and start from scratch.

 

The Ford dealer dropped the gas tank and this is what they found. I go in the morning to check it out, not sure what they found. Here are the photos they sent me.

 

perfectphotos

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I'm very intrigued by the diagnosis.

 

It's blatently obvious why you got it for such a good price... The steering wheel is on the wrong side

I bought mine just over a month ago. I'm also working my way thru the snag list and have just invested in an OBD2

 

I was trying from my phone to upload the photos.

Not sure what this is but it looks like a burnt relay

 

Yes, the P0445 kept coming back. That is why I took it to the Ford dealer.

 

Fascinating. Will be interesting to hear what the dealer finds/thinks is wrong, I don't necessarily see anything from the pictures. I guess a good assumption is that there may be some wiring issue since he sent you a picture of wires.

Since P0445 is essentially evap drive circuit short circuit, if you look at the wiring diagram, there's no obvious connection with anything in the fuel tank, or anything else for that matter, except the ECM. Did you/they check short to ground on the EVAP wires?



Bit of the wiring diagram for the EVAP valve.

 

I am impressed that a Ford dealership service department was willing to work on a Jaguar. Well done....