Hello to all!New to the sight and have no clue as to how to post a picture as of yet.Have a sweet SeaFoam Green 2000 XK8 convertible with around 43k miles on her now that is giving me the shakes.From around 50-65mph.I found if I go 70mph or more it calms down,but can not afford the red lights in my rear view mirror ..
I opened the hood and seen that the tops of my front original shock mounts have all but crumbled away.I have done a lot of hunting for this front shock top bushing.
My tires at the time are a little more then half gone and have worn great I might add.So with out me checking any of the front suspension as of yet,I am thinking I may have caught things in time??From my 4 hours of hunting online i found the top front shock oem plates for $177.00 each.Just wondering if going stock again is the way to go?I seen folks on Ebay with the bushing kit with rivets and all and i have to rebuilt them for $145.00 I think it was??But was leaning towards the OEM plate complete so i am not rebuilding parts.Wondering your thought?
Thanks for the help and in sight!As you can see by my user name I am new to the world of Jaguar.
I will check back and see your thought on this matter.I do not have a ton of money to go ahead and rebuild the whole front end.I may can do shocks but would like to only if needed.
Have to pick up my son from band now,so a shaking i will go!

 

The shock mounts are worn but they shouldn't cause the shaking. It should be noisy when going over bumps. You could try rotating your tires front to back and see if the shaking moves. Sounds like one of your tires is out of balance.

 

Welcome to the forum, hemitwist. Lots of fun and interesting foks here. We have some really knowledgeable people on the site; be sure to pick their brains. They volunteer their time and knowledge and experience and we all appreciate them very much.

Sorry I can't give car advice since I know nothing about shock plates or thingamadoozies or whatchamacallits.

Enjoy the site! Jump right in. Here's hoping your problem is an inexpensive and easy fix... I can dream, can't I?

 

I did not think that I could put the fronts on the rear because of rim size and offset of wheels??But will try almost anything once!
I just got back from picking up my son from school.It is just pouring down rain here in the sunshine state,so i did not make it over 70 mph.Right at 70 mph it is down right spooky to drive it.And i noticed that I can feel a bump in the fuel pedal at lower 25-40mph speeds.Kinda like when you have a warped brake rotor and you step on the brake pedal and feel bump bump bump on the brake pedal.I had new tires put on this about 3 years ago and they said at the dealership,that it is just the nature of the car and claimed to have gone over everything and said that all was ok.
This is darn sure no smooth riding sports car!I felt like i was behind a mild build hemi dragster driving this thing at 70 mph!Just trying to keep it pointed straight and hope it holds together.Recheck on the mile.It has 47k.Do Fords aka Jags.just fall apart with such low miles??If i can figure out how to post picture of the top of the shock tower rubber bushing, they are just turning to dust,cracked and i can pick them apart.
PLEASE HELP.I hate having such a nice car that i pay to insure and the darn thing sits with a car cover over it more so then drives!It is dent free,just a couple scratches.

 

[IMG]file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Administrator/My%20Documents/My%20Pictures/2000%20Jaguar%20XK8%20front%20shock%20top%20bushin gs%20002.jpg[/IMG]

 

Pics.

 

Well darn I guess the pictures are rather large.I think this is just the start of them going bad.It is nothing like the shock is just banging around loose.But steering wheel shakes BAD at 70.Seemed like some days I could make it pick up speed real slow and it not be as bad as other days.Today it was down right bad.Like a bent rim or a wheel weight came off.What gets me is the dealership that I will never return to said all the front end is fine.Guess that I need to get it on a lift and look to see what the heck is going on.Darn Ford.
My know it all son posted the pictures for me.If a mod can resize them,please do.
Can i do the wheel swap front to rear with different offset rims?
Thanks for ANY ideas on what to check.It could be a bent drive line it is that bad shaking at 70mph.This makes me put my car cover on it,that now needs replace from the baking sun shine on it this summer.That was why i drove it again and thought what the heck.Ask people that have done this before and know the nature of this car.

 

I forgot about the offset wheels on your model. I'm pretty sure you can't swap them around. My 98 wheels are all the same. You might try heading for a good tire shop and have them check the front tires. Are your brakes pulling to one side or the other? Are you getting heavy brake dust on one wheel as opposed to the other?....and does it shake when you first get in to drive it?
I had a sticky brake caliber that was causing a shake...overheating the rotor and causing a shake. But...I'd be checking tires first. While the tire shop has it on the lift you can have them check your universals and axle joints for looseness.

 

I JUST HAD FOUND THIS IN A OLD POST AND WILL HAVE IT CHECKED OUT TO SEE IF THIS IS THE CASE.After ready all his replies it sounds just like mine.

I did a copy and paste for others if they are having bad steering wheel shakes at higher speeds.SPOOKY bad!
No mine is not pulling to one side or the other.Braking is fine.Yes wheels are not the same front to rear.And I guess that I can add that they are245/4518 and 255/4518. PIRELLI P-ZERO Nero and seems the like rear the same brand but not the same name.And I will say for what they cost they are no good for me.They seem to follow a crack in the road.You have to hang on tight while steering.I get out of this sports car white knuckled! I have a(other brand) that I can drive to 140mph with 2 fingers.
Thank you for your help!
Below I had found from a old post.It must be my answer.

Resolution at last! I had the wheels balanced in a different tyre shop. They spotted a 10 gramme disparity on one wheel. They told me that for most cars 10 grammes would be nothing (50-60 would be more the norm), but Jags are "easily upset" apparently! Took the car out for an extensive roadtest last night and the steering wheel shake has disappeared! Incredible. Thanks for the advice re double-checking the balancing etc. before trying more costly items.

 

If you've done your share of research in the xk8 area, you'll see that those upper shock mounts fail with age, not necessarily with mileage. What happens when they crumble and 'squeesh' is the front begins to drop lower. That additional weight difference front to rear just accentuates any crack, groove or desire to pull one way or the other. In addition, with the front end lowered, that increases the negative camber even more, resulting in more pressure on the inside of the tire, and that again...can exaggerate any road feature pull. Get the upper mounts replaced for sure.

And the wheel shake saga is something many of us have experienced. True indeed that these cars feel even the slightest imbalance in the wheel, tire, or even shock. Most often, the balancing is the culprit. A static balance just doesn't cut it for our tolerances. A force balance machine is what we need.

In my case, even a force balance left a shake in the wheel at 65-70 mph. My problem...a worn REAR lower shock bushing. The shock was able to move, just enough during travel to cause a chassis shake that transferred to the front steering wheel. Shock was good, but since there is no longer lower bushing replacements (and it was equal in cost to replace) I replaced the shock and the car is smooth once again.

Another thread mentioned lower ball joints too. Although not as common either, it too should be considered in your inspection.

Then, as you may also know, the lower control arms have some bushings that just don't age well. My car has had what seems like, almost every suspension issue possible. Worn bushings on these arms make the car float almost in any direction, making it not-so-fun to drive. Inevitably, they will catch up with you, but, they are easy to diagnose and should be apparent by physical examination and a prybar test if they are toast.

Have fun, keep us informed.

 

Thank you for the reply! More things to check but the more that I check the more that I understand this car.
With my tires now 75-80% worn,I was going to buy all 4 tires for it.They have all worn great!Then with reading folks post on tires, I am now unsure what tire brand to go with.Would like to stay under $200.00 each this time around.Any suggestions.
2000 XK8
But now it looks like any tire money that I thought I had will now go first for front upper shock mounts/bushings.
Can anyone suggest if I should stay with stock style replacement front top shock mounts or go with what they call a upgrade kit with Urethane bushings for a total of 156.90 each side shipped.From Ebay seller motorcars-ltd? If anyone has got this kit and had good or bad with it? I would do the install myself.I could never aford to get this on the road if every time it broke or other rides,that it was dealer only.The one and only time i used them was for new tires a few years back and for them to say why the steering wheel shakes so bad at upper speeds.So bad that I may as well drive this fancy car in the slow lane.But dealer said all was well.Nature of the car.They must not have test drove it or the driver would have come back looking like he had seen a ghost!That is how bad it is!!!
Also you had said the lower rear shock mount causing front end troubles.I guess this car needs a good look over.
While I am at it I also have the battery issues that I am sure others have had.I now always unhooked the neg. cable so if I wanted to drive it.Then last week I had drove it to the store and unhooked the cable and when i came back out hooked it back up and the car was freaking out.I think that I hit unlock before it had time to think straight with power being brought back to it?But it was in safe mode?It drove about 2 miles per hour and i forget what the dash read out was?Transmission??.I pulled back over and parked it and unhooked the neg. cable and waited a few minutes and re hooked it up.It ran right but now the amber engine light it on.I got home unhooked the ground cable again and did not mess with the car for a few days.The engine amber picture light is still on.Also I may add the engine temp light had gone on before and I had went to add water and it would not take any more water?When you drive it and it warms up that light went out.It has not come on since this amber engine picture light.
I guess they should call this the bits sight,that seems to be all that I have done since i got here.Thanks again for any ideas on the front shock plates or bushings.Why water light would come on and then go off and not in need of water.And not the amber engine light is on.

 

motorcars ltd is a forum sponsor (has been forever) and over a year ago, those upper mounts were backordered at the dealer across the entire country (I was waiting myself) so they fabricated their own to keep up with their own customer's demands (they service jags as well as sell parts, new and salvaged). The quality is equal to what the OEM mounts offer, so do not be afraid to go that route.

Tires, hancook ventus evo v12's are very popular right now. I've got em, and so do others. Price is less than $175 ea, plus a rebate being offered makes it a no-brainer decision. Unless you have a loyalty to another brand, consider these.

Since the check engine light (amber one) is on, you should drop by the local auto parts store and ask them to scan it for you (free!) and report back. Or, better yet, start a new thread after you research what he provides you. That code is critical in determining where to look next.

Find a good independent jag service and ask them to inspect your full suspension. Then, if he says all bushings look good except the upper mounts (test him...make sure he finds your upper mounts crumbling) get new tires, and force balance them. Call around first to see if you can find a dealer that can order your tires AND do the force balancing there...get the free lifetime balancing they offer with purchase.

After that... well, let's see where that leads you first.

 

Thank you!
I just got a email on tires and the total for them mounted and balanced is only $580.00 with Fl. sales tax.They are 255/45ZR/18 Nexen N3000 245/45ZR/18 Nexen N3000.They are in Clearwater Fl.I am in Saint Cloud Fl.So a easy 1.5 hour drive.I had never heard of that brand of tire and had just emailed them back asking as far as balancing them.If they can force balance them, as you had said is a must.

I will also check on the tires you spoke of.If you are happy with the ride of your tires and the tires that I posted above are a no go,i will surely pass on them and get what you had suggested!And I will also try to find a place close by that can force balance them.I had never heard of that before.Does Big 10 tire or any big name tire dealer offer that?Does the machine look any different then the standard looking balancer,so I can see if they really have it of not?

And the other thing that you had suggested as far as going to a local parts store and have them get the code for me.Can i buy that tool off Ebay?I have a feeling that it will come in quite handy!Also how do you get a readout of what each code means?

Thank you very much!! I am starting to like this car again.I will go ahead and buy the bushing kit off Ebay for the front shocks.

 

Wanted to thank h20boy for the advice on tires.Thank you!

I have a pair of Hankook Ventus V12 EVO KIIO (255/45R18XL 103Y VSB) and pair of (245/45R18XL 103Y VSB) tires on order.I am in Fl. and they are in California,so it is looking like I will be able to have them installed the end of next week.And they will use a forced balanced machine.I have printed out the $60.00 mail in rebate.
I will have the front end upper lower ball joints,control arms,sway bar,etc.and rear shock mounts all checked out at that time. Other then the out of balanced front tire or tires and the front shock top mounts/bushings going bad.I hope that they find all is well..The front shock top bushings that I posted the pictures of look like hell,but the shock is by no way loose.
I think that this is my 10th post now.I will finally be able to see others pictures i hope!!And hope to learn how to post my picture on the lower left hand corner like others have done.

 

I think you'll like the tires. There are a couple other brands that other xk owners have recommended in various threads.

Are you asking your tire store to check your suspension? Be careful, some techs do not possess the knowledge to do a comprehensive evaluation. If they have not had several years under a car, do consider going down the street to another shop that deals with those parts.

I always dislike driving the car when there's vibrations or noises (way too many to count) but after finding and correcting them all, you are correct - the enjoyment returns immediately.

 

Ok, forgot to give you another tip - tire pressures

On mine, and these Hancooks, they wear the most even at 32 psi (front), 28 psi (rear) <- cold (very important)

Also, do not believe the pressures the tire shop (or the oil change places) put in. Buy yourself a $15 gage (not the cheapy kind) and keep it in the boot. About 50% of the time after specifying my pressures to these places, I come home, check the readings, and find them high, sometimes 10 psi too high, sometimes just one side...its crazy. Check it yourself and be confident you are getting the most out of your tires...tread life, comfort, gas mileage, etc.

While you are at the store picking up a pressure gage, grab a tread depth gage also. That way you can track, and adjust pressures if your inside vs outside start wearing unevenly. Do not mistake poor alignment for incorrect pressure though. My rears had to be dropped to 28 psi to keep the centers from wearing more excessively than the outside, for example.

 

I had emailed Hankook for proper tire pressure.I told them what the car was and what tire size's that I was buying and They had suggest I keep in 32 lbs. in the front tires and 34lbs in the rears.
My best is a Longacre T/P gauge from drag racing that reads in 00.1 psi.
I have that department covered.One thing about a tire pressure gauges.They do not care what make or model you are.Or how fast you play!
Discount tire is who will be installing the tires once they come in.I have dealt with them quite a bit in the past years.About 20 years now.And yes we have gone round and round a couple times and I had to call the corporate office over the(management at the store)to get things right.Bought new wheels and tires and the wheel lugs had been offset from the center of the rim almost 1/4" from center.After a phone call they ordered a new rim/wheel.I wanted to be like the old lady in the tv commercial and throw the wheel and tire through the window but it is off my Dodge dually. Have had the same with tires before.They do not always come round like you would think.
Once they get the car on the lift i was going to do a looky and see what I see.This is the only car from cars trucks/boats and dragster that i have had and have not at one time or another had the engine apart in my hands and know the beast from one end to the other.I have a old 93 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 that the factory service manual for the electronics on the car is twice as thick as the mechanical service manual on it.This silly little Jag is not gonna wip my butt!It has just been put to the side and kinda forgot about because it handles so bad.I hope the hell the tires fix it!And then I will get some interest in it.
But I HATE TIRES.I have had 50 plus tires needed at one time or another for each play toy or daily drivers or muscle car classics.Not all at once!! And I hate buying the 4 now.Tires are a never ending thing.Then here in Florida if you do not have a tire cover on your 5th wheel,boat,race trailer,cars and trucks in general,Jaguar!The tires will dry out and split from the sun faster then you can cut the tread down in half by use. I have done auto mechanics for my self and family members and friends for the last 32 years.This is my first Jaguar/Ford if you do not count a Lincoln/Ford Mark VIII or a Ford/Ford 4x4 truck years ago.When i am mad at it it becomes a nasty looking and acting Ford.When it is well and runs smooth and rides smooth "again"it can deserve the title Jaguar.Ok I am done!

 

You pay someone to change your oil?How about replace a light bulb?
h2oboy
You have been the only help that I have had here,just playing

 

h2oboy,I may as well address this to you since you seem to be the smartest here on board
I had made it to a parts store yesterday evening to get the engine amber symbol code figured out and they asked if I had got fuel recently?Over 3 -4 months ago.Again car sits more then gets driven.That it is coming up like the gas cap was not on tight.I checked cap and it looks fine but the code still stayed on.Parts store people said that it will take awhile for the code to go away.I thought as soon as I started the car if it was right,then the code would go away?They claimed that it will take some time before it goes away and that they can remove it,turn it off if I want.I said no because I want to know if things are right first.That just turning it off is not fixing anything if it needs fixed.Rights?Darn cars are to smart.They build them so you almost have to take them in for service.Advice?Should I just have the engine amber light symbol turned off and never know what the heck is or was wrong?So it looks like they build the cars to make the owners take it in for service over none a issues such as engine amber light?I would have been if I took it to Jaguar dealership and got billed for them to do a simple turn off the light and say that it was nothing to worry about,here is your bill

 

sounds like a code for a 'EVAP LEAK', either small or large. Yes, the gas cap is a potential cause, but 99 out of 100 times, the problem lies a little deeper, in the canister close valve (purge valve) and the vent tube. Of course my car had the same error message and thus, I fixed it too. The vent tube corrodes, debris falls into the purge valve, and cannot close entirely...viola, the leak. I changed both the vent and valve, but others have just replaced the valve and the problem is corrected. When I heard it was due to rust in the tube, my preventative maintenance side took over and I made the call to have it replaced also...why put a new valve in and risk the same issue. Its not a matter of if, but how soon till it happens again.

After replacement, the light will go out on its own, within 3 driving cycles.

Ok, tire pressure's again...I also started with 32 front 34 rear (that's dealer spec BTW) and it was too much. First set of tires, dropped the rear to 32, still too high. Center wore like CRAZY..dropped to 30, started to see some balance. Next set of tires (the hancooks) noticed a slight center bias in where, so dropped to 28 and it has now leveled off nicely. New set of rear tires just last month. Thinking I'm at the perfect spec now.

Oil changes, yes I let someone else do it. I don't like the mess and recycle effort after. I've done my own plugs, drive belt, tensioner & idler pulley, front sway bar bushings, brake pads and rotors, fuel filter, throttle body & MAF sensor cleaning, heater hose, coolant flush (lots to recycle there, but worth it), t-stat, expansion tank, rear sway bar links, e-brake pads backlight bulbs in the A/C controls, and that headrest repair. Yes, bulbs I can handle myself.

I like to think that's a good hobby mechanic effort.