No crank, just click, new battery
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From: Spencer, NC
We got the final report from Scott Jaguar of Charlotte, NC.
The key transponder was not communicating with the key. A new key and reprogramming has taken care of this problem.
They of course found a couple of thousand dollars worth of other stuff, but I can handle most of it except the tires.
After playing with this car for several weeks, I don't think that was the problem, but we shall see.
Wayne
The key transponder was not communicating with the key. A new key and reprogramming has taken care of this problem.
They of course found a couple of thousand dollars worth of other stuff, but I can handle most of it except the tires.
After playing with this car for several weeks, I don't think that was the problem, but we shall see.
Wayne
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From: Raleigh, NC
Wayne,
Does the owner have both original key fobs? If so, would neither of them function properly? As you said, time will tell whether or not the dealer actually solved the problem....
Does the owner have both original key fobs? If so, would neither of them function properly? As you said, time will tell whether or not the dealer actually solved the problem....
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Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 429
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From: Kirkwood, MO
I am having a similar issue with my 1999 XK8 coupe: I get power with ignition switch in "ON" position, but only get a click when I turn to the "Start" position. My battery shows 13.25 volts at rest (I keep it on a battery maintainer) and I have cleaned the connectors from the battery terminals up to and including the "High Power Protection Module". All were clean, but I wire-brushed them to be sure. I checked both fuses for continuity and both check OK.
Where should I start checking for power in the engine compartment? (I can't figure out where the "False Bulkhead" is located.)
Where should I start checking for power in the engine compartment? (I can't figure out where the "False Bulkhead" is located.)
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From: Spencer, NC
Jimmiejag, Yours sounds a little different, but the same procedures I followed would be the way to go.
That false bulkhead is on the passenger side, (LHD) at the bottom of the enclosed electrical box, on the outside on the fire wall. I would say it's on the inner finder. It has about 4 ground wires going into it on what looks like a plastic bushing.
The positive ones that were loose on the one inside that box, it has a rubber cover on it. Also one by the ABS box, between the shock tower and the ABS on the right side of the box is a cover that has a positive one.
The grounds are all over the place and Gus has a good picture of the ones I didn't tell you about.
Disconnect the battery when you start and one of the battery terminal cleaners or 220 sand paper will clean them up. I hate it, but on the grounds if you take a grinder (small dremmel) and take some paint off the area for a star washer, that will give you a A Plus on the job.
Good luck, Wayne
Oh, Jon, we tried both keys right away, that's one reason I'm a little skeptical about their conclusion.
Wayne
That false bulkhead is on the passenger side, (LHD) at the bottom of the enclosed electrical box, on the outside on the fire wall. I would say it's on the inner finder. It has about 4 ground wires going into it on what looks like a plastic bushing.
The positive ones that were loose on the one inside that box, it has a rubber cover on it. Also one by the ABS box, between the shock tower and the ABS on the right side of the box is a cover that has a positive one.
The grounds are all over the place and Gus has a good picture of the ones I didn't tell you about.
Disconnect the battery when you start and one of the battery terminal cleaners or 220 sand paper will clean them up. I hate it, but on the grounds if you take a grinder (small dremmel) and take some paint off the area for a star washer, that will give you a A Plus on the job.
Good luck, Wayne
Oh, Jon, we tried both keys right away, that's one reason I'm a little skeptical about their conclusion.
Wayne
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Joined: Jun 2013
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From: Sweden
Could it be the ignition switch (ignition lock?)?
One some of my old cars I have had problems with then "grounding out" or something.
Not on newer cars (and I refer to everything newer than 1995 as newer)
If it sounds plausible you could test to turn on the ignition normally with the key, but then engage the starter motor "externally".
I know it is little space down at the starter motor, but it might be possible. I have done that before, but on older cars, just to bypass all relays and stuff.
One some of my old cars I have had problems with then "grounding out" or something.
Not on newer cars (and I refer to everything newer than 1995 as newer)
If it sounds plausible you could test to turn on the ignition normally with the key, but then engage the starter motor "externally".
I know it is little space down at the starter motor, but it might be possible. I have done that before, but on older cars, just to bypass all relays and stuff.