No crank no start, new starter motor
Hi All
As some of you know I have been having extended problems with this car. Latest was the starter motor. Old one was clicking and not turning. Tried all aspects, battery jumping etc etc. No fault codes so I assumed just the starter.
Horrible job. Don't want to do the starter again as I don't have ramps, but luckily I'm patient (but not for long.. this thing is trying my patience now), and so got the job done and new starter in place.
All back together and connected up and waited for the big moment. click click click.
Again, battery tested and charged, then jumped to make sure. Fault codes read and all clear using laptop and SDD software. Fuses and relays checked and replaced and swapped.
So, my conclusion is back to the starter. Is there a way to test it on the car without having to take it off and bench test it? A way to bypass most of the wiring? I saw someone do it on a video but cant find that video..
Very reluctant to take that starter out again... but looks like I have to. any help to circumvent that would be gratefully received.
Need a sanity check..
As some of you know I have been having extended problems with this car. Latest was the starter motor. Old one was clicking and not turning. Tried all aspects, battery jumping etc etc. No fault codes so I assumed just the starter.
Horrible job. Don't want to do the starter again as I don't have ramps, but luckily I'm patient (but not for long.. this thing is trying my patience now), and so got the job done and new starter in place.
All back together and connected up and waited for the big moment. click click click.
Again, battery tested and charged, then jumped to make sure. Fault codes read and all clear using laptop and SDD software. Fuses and relays checked and replaced and swapped.
So, my conclusion is back to the starter. Is there a way to test it on the car without having to take it off and bench test it? A way to bypass most of the wiring? I saw someone do it on a video but cant find that video..
Very reluctant to take that starter out again... but looks like I have to. any help to circumvent that would be gratefully received.
Need a sanity check..
Yes it took me 6 hrs to change it .
First if its clicking it has not got enough current . Take a jump lead and put it from the starter body to what you know is earthed ..preferably the battery negative try again ..if no better then the earth is good. If it cranks the earth is bad
Take a substantial lead from the battery +ve to the terminal nearest the body of the motor and it should run..You could try a lead from the +ve solenoid bolt under the bonnet to the termial near the motor that should make it run.
If its a new starter and wont run ..clicking you have a bad connection in live or earth reducing current flow
First if its clicking it has not got enough current . Take a jump lead and put it from the starter body to what you know is earthed ..preferably the battery negative try again ..if no better then the earth is good. If it cranks the earth is bad
Take a substantial lead from the battery +ve to the terminal nearest the body of the motor and it should run..You could try a lead from the +ve solenoid bolt under the bonnet to the termial near the motor that should make it run.
If its a new starter and wont run ..clicking you have a bad connection in live or earth reducing current flow
Did you test the old starter motor with a charged battery and jump leads once you had removed it? If not, try it now. You can usually test the motor directly and also test it through the solenoid using an old screwdriver to bridge the contacts. Look for videos online if needed.
If it runs strongly through the solenoid, then the starter was not the issue which should help to locate the actual problem.
Richard
If it runs strongly through the solenoid, then the starter was not the issue which should help to locate the actual problem.
Richard
Hi. An update. So I wanted to do all that I could without going back under the car and did a quick battery leads check. Jumpers on both terminals to the appropriate points and then extra ground on the engine.
It started! Roared into life. Now I dont have any instrument comms... Code wont delete when pulled.
I am going to fix and clean all the leads to the battery and engine. Get that sorted and then make sure the connector on the instrument pack is ok itself. I had an issue here before on the dash so now im thinking either the earths are the problem and the instrument is a side effect.. or.. the instrument pack needs repair.
To prep.. Does anyone know in the UK of anyone that repairs these? LNC4300DD. It isnt one of the common ones unfortunately.
This place seems to repair them, does anyone have nay experience of these?
https://www.autotronics.co.uk/produc...luster-repair/
If not then I need to replace. What ones are compatible with the DD for a 1999 XKR?
It started! Roared into life. Now I dont have any instrument comms... Code wont delete when pulled.
I am going to fix and clean all the leads to the battery and engine. Get that sorted and then make sure the connector on the instrument pack is ok itself. I had an issue here before on the dash so now im thinking either the earths are the problem and the instrument is a side effect.. or.. the instrument pack needs repair.
To prep.. Does anyone know in the UK of anyone that repairs these? LNC4300DD. It isnt one of the common ones unfortunately.
This place seems to repair them, does anyone have nay experience of these?
https://www.autotronics.co.uk/produc...luster-repair/
If not then I need to replace. What ones are compatible with the DD for a 1999 XKR?
oh and in case it is mentioned, there is a tsb for the solder - 413-S484. I had checked that before and it was fine. I do remember that I had moved the cluster wiring on the right hand side with the cluster installed and it came back to life. Im hoping it isnt a wiring issue as that could be a pain to check and splice
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