I'm not really clear on what you are testing (please recheck the connector numbers you have posted) and how you are testing, but just to clarify that a circuit that is supposed to be ground switched, won't let the smoke out when grounded. So for example if you connect a voltmeter to FC23-4 and ground, you should get a positive reading when the headlight stalk is OFF and zero volts when the headlight stalk is ON. There should be no smoke.

Similarly if you have a module pin that is shown as going to ground on the wiring diagram, it should read zero volts on your muitimeter. If it doesn't it means the ground is bad. Again you won't get smoke if you connect something that is supposed to be grounded to ground.

I said this a month ago:-

If you haven't already done so check power and grounds at the module connector with a test light and check the dimmer override with a test light (one side to +12v the other side to the override switch.

Is that what you are testing now? It makes no sense to swap modules before testing for power and ground where it is supposed to be.

 

@dibbit First, let me state that I am an electrical controls engineer so I do understand electricity. I am finding a couple of items that should go to ground that do not. They show 12 volts with a DVM. If you try to ground them, there is definitely smoke and heat so it is not just a circuit looking for a ground.
I defies the logic of the factory wiring diagrams.
The dimmer override take a RG wire to a RW wire to correctly.
FC23-9 on the dimmer module shows to go to ground(correct?) but it is as hot as a firecracker. No idea why.
FC3BL shows to be some type of logic ground. Not sure exactly where that goes yet

Thank you for your efforts thus far

 

>>FC23-9 on the dimmer module shows to go to ground(correct?) but it is as hot as a firecracker. No idea why.
It does say it is a power ground, so it should be taking some current - maybe there is a short/burnt bulb elsewhere on one of the backlights? Have you measured the current draw?

>>FC3BL shows to be some type of logic ground. Not sure exactly where that goes yet
You've tested it and it is grounded when you expect it to be? I haven't looked, but is that the ignition switched ground for the dimmer module? I would disconnect it and see what happens.

There is the possibility that the wiring diagram is wrong and also the possibility that someone else did some re-wiring on the car so it is no longer as factory - any evidence of that?

 

@dibbit
Thanks for the ideas. I can check the current draw later today.
Evidence that someone else messed with the wiring? That is every where on this car from the after market stereo wired strangely to connectors in the doors and dash that someone has been into. Everywhere I look, I find more of this evidence. I have done a lot more things electrically on this car than have been mentioned on this forum and a Lot more than I ever expected.
The door modules had issues and the switches on the locks had wires butt spliced to them.
Had to replace the BCM due to a burned up component and the ECM had to be repaired also.
If I did not know electrical controls like I do, this car would have cost a fortune to straighten out by a repair shop. That being said, it is the most complicated car electrical system I have ever tackled.
If my wife did not love this car, I would have shot it a long time ago.
Thanks Again for your help.

 

Well, I now have all the lights working. I won't go into details since you will never encounter what I found unless the previous owner of this car sells you one like it.
Suffice it to say that it was not original design. The previous owner was an electrical idiot.
Next to figure out how he wired in the aftermarket stereo head unit that plays from some speakers but not all. Very low on my priority list.
Thanks to all who provided help and advice.

 

Well done for finding the bodge - I'm guessing the previous owner was looking for an ignition switched supply to power an accessory and picked the dimmer output to the dashlights, lol.