Hi folks , new to the forum and really need some ideas !
i have a 2001 XKR which has been fine until yesterday , went out for a drive of 8 miles, car was running fine . stopped to see my son for 30 mins and on restarting it started to miss then petered out and now won't fire at all , seems like no fuel to me , there is fuel in the tank , it cranks over fine and there are no warning lights or messages , any suggestions ?
Thanks very much .

 

Listen for the fuel pump to turn on as you have the key on detente before the start detente . It will only run for 3 - 5 seconds to charge the fuel rail then turn off until the ECU sees engine rotation by the Crankshaft position sensor, then stays on for the duration on the drive . This is a safety / crash design .

You can put you finger on the fuel pump relay and do the same . Swappping relays would be the next step if no results .

Because the relay clicks doesn't mean the relay is good

Frozen fuel lines ?

Some of the XK8's have a schrader valve on the fuel rail if you want to measure pressure .

The XKR has 2 fuel pumps and the # 2 doesn't come on until certain conditions are met but can be tricked on for troubleshooting purposes .

See pic below for relay locations along with the relays circled in blue .

There is a relay control fuse other then the main large power fuse to the pumps

 

All of this won't happen without a good battery as below 11.5 volts the ECU will fail during the heat of battle so keep that in mind .

 

Welcome to the forum whatfield boy,

+1 for fuel pump being the prime suspect in an XKR.

When you get a minute, please follow this link New Member Area - Intro a MUST - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum to the New Member Area - Intro a MUST forum and post some information about yourself and your vehicle for all members to see. In return you'll get a proper welcome and some useful advice about posting to the forum.

Graham

 

When the #1 fails the ECU switches over to the #2 to allow running. It doesn't always make the switch if the relay is holding. The easiest test is to remove the #1 relay and attempt to start the car. If the fuel rail dosn't charge up then you have failure of both pumps If the #1 has been dead for ahwile and you have now lost the #2 pump you will get no pressure at the rail with the relay removed. The #2 pump will at least get you home if it's working.

It is a quick easy test. Since the tank has to come out to change the pump, it is advisable to change out both while you have the tank out.

 

I suspect that my #2 fuel pump is not working. Could you explain more about the fuse. How many fuses are related to fuel pumps, and could a bad fuse affect only pump relay #2? I know the realy itself is good.

Forgive me for tagging onto someone else's thread...

 

Roger _ B , pulling up a wiring guide in that you bring up a good point . It's just like the X308 series .

Editing

 

The #1 pump is fused because it is ignition controlled. The #2 is not fused because it is ECM controlled. When the throttle position sensor tells the ECM you are moving to Wide Open Throttle the ECM knows it needs more fuel than one pump can provide so it kicks in the #2 pump.
As Lady Penelope shows Fuse #7 in the trunk fuse box is for pump #1. When dealing with fuses I don't bother with a meter or visual of the fuse it can read good and still open on load. I just pull them chuck it and put in a new one.

The relay is in the same fuse box for pump #1 the relays are arranged in a tee
with 3 across the end. The pump relay is the first one behind the row of 3. You can swap it with any like colored relay.

 

I read somewhere that the secondary fuel pump is used to prime the fuel rail on start-up. I gather that was incorrect... ?

 

To eliminate the # 1 and # 2 fuel pump relay control issue you can jumper power straight into the pump ( or pumps on the S/C model ) . You would use a blade type connector from the auto part store and in removing the relay put them in the 2 larger sockets . This is a high current connection so you would have to remove the battery post first so there won't be any arching . This test will power the # 1 pump at all times even with key out so plan accordingly .

Or simply look at the relay control fuse ( # 3 / 5 amp trunk fuse box ) or the separate pumps main power fuses

With the jumpered relays you would still need to check the main power fuses as the are electrically between the jumpered relay and the pump connector .

To get the car running would be a reinforcing step that your resolving it .