Greetings,

Well, having owned it for only two months and about 1,000 miles on top of the 43,000 on the clock, my first real problem has occurred.

Driver's side rear window did not go all the way down with the top retraction yesterday. I drove in with it sticking up about half way. When I got to work, I put the top up, and sure enough, the window closed. This morning, put the top down, and the rear stayed up. I grabbed it and gave it a little push, and it dropped down into the fender as if it was not attached to anything. As soon as it disappeared, it popped up by maybe an inch.

I susptect that it must have become detached from the lift channel, yes? And when I dropped it back down, it bottomed out and some sensor was activated that pushed it up a bit.

Does this sound reasonable? How do I go about the fix?

I have done numerous searches, and most of the threads I find have the regulator issue, which I do not think this is.

Any advice would of course be much appreciated.

 

Rear window regulators, especially early ones, have a history of failure. No matter yours is a '05 MY that is most likely the problem. There are numerous threads on the subject. Try a search outside of the forum search function beginning with 'jaguarforum'

 

Yeah, I still think it's a regulator problem. Just remove the interior and visually inspect it to be sure. The regulators in these cars of made of plastic. :/

 

Hi.

It could be either electrical or mechanical. The way you describe the problem, it sounds mechanical. When you drive your top up or down can you hear the electrical motor that is supposed to drive the window? If so, it's mechanical.
Typical failures are the cable pulling the window snaps or come off the winding reel. It's also a plastic slider that tends to break.
You will find more information on Gus' site, JagRepair.com

 

Mine did the same thing - to a certain extent. The window didn't quite align properly, I had to manually pull it up to completely close. I found it to be partially detached from the channel. I pulled it completely from the car, cleaned both the channel and the glass and used a 3M product made specifically for the job, 3M 08641 (3M Channel Bonding and Sidelite Adhesive 50 mL 08641) would still need mixing nozzle (~$2) and the special gun (seeing online now $85 - $145 but a friendly body and/or glass shop may lend you one for a few minutes. It's easy enough to do in their parking lot.) I just reached in with the regulator in full up position, filled the channel, installed the glass and positioned into place with the door closed and both windows up. Leave it in place for a day or so and you're finished.

 

Surely you jest. You mean to say there are critical parts and pieces in these originally $75K to almost $100K cars that are made of plastic?!?!? Who would have thought that would be the case


Doug

 

I finally dug into this today, got everything off except the regulator but could see the problem. The cable had come off the upper pulley, and spooled around the motor drive pulley in a tangled mess. Even with the directions, I cannot yet figure out how to remove the unit, and since I am rapidly running out of daylight (no room in the garage) I have to get it put back together.

If I can remove it, do you think I can repair it? The plastic connector was not broken, but the upper pulley was at an odd angle. Thanks for your help!

 

Your best bet is a new part or a professional rebuild: window regulator. It is not worth going through all this again to save a few dollars on a questionalble repair.

It will be easier to extract from the tight space if you extend the window all the way out. Snipping the cable may be required if it is tangled.

Also see http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...lacement-2.pdf for more hints.

 

Thank you, good links, I hate to sound stupid, but no difference between XK8 and XKR, yes?

 

No difference for the rear window.