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The battery situation seems to be a plague on all of us. You'd think Jaguar could design a system that doesn't have a constant draw on the battery. I start the car every week or so now, and it always fires right up....but I hear that's not enough. Maybe Jag never got over their "Lucifer Lucas" days.
translation: my car has a problem. if you’re killing a battery every 5 months i suggest you fix it
all of mine draw 20ma max all day and all night long
If you disconnect the brake lines from the old ABS modulator and install the salvaged one, you will have to bleed the air from the entire brake system at all four brake calipers. I can't recall if the X100 supports bleeding the ABS module, but if so, bi-directional scan tools can force the pump to run and the valves to open to bleed air through the module.
Well, after R&R the original module 3X, it would probably be a good idea to have a full system flush/bleed/fill to make sure. That said, I have never seen my fluid in the reservoir drop. I wonder what that will cost? Add 1 hour? Then, pay an exorbitant price for simple brake fluid.
translation: my car has a problem. if you’re killing a battery every 5 months i suggest you fix it
all of mine draw 20ma max all day and all night long
While I don't disagree that MY car certainly has a problem, I have seen quite a few people on the forum report that they have similar issues caused by their batteries, consequently I tend to recommend looking at battery when debugging a problem downstream of the battery.
No one claimed that it was drawing abnormal current after the shutdown period. It likely is, but the battery doesn't "discharge" itself. It stays at a normal voltage and fails load tests in battery testers, and causes issues with the Jag electronic modules.
You guys are just jumping to conclusions based on assumptions.
No one claimed that it was drawing abnormal current after the shutdown period. It likely is, but the battery doesn't "discharge" itself. It stays at a normal voltage and fails load tests in battery testers, and causes issues with the Jag electronic modules.
You guys are just jumping to conclusions based on assumptions.
If it fails such tests it needs replacing. No surprise if it also upsets modules.
We're TRYING to help but it can be HARD with info that's less than 100% clear.
If it fails such tests it needs replacing. No surprise if it also upsets modules.
We're TRYING to help but it can be HARD with info that's less than 100% clear.
Another thought here: What about battery manufacturer? Reports on "good" brands vs "affordable" brands. I have been buying Walmart's top like "MAXX" batteries for many years. Yes,they are affordable, but are they really reliable? They are allegedly made by "Johnson Controls" which is highly reputable, but I must say I have had to replace them constantly in 3 of my vehicles before their 100% refund date (usually 3 years for what I buy). It doesn't cost me anything for the new battery, but it's a PITA....and my Yukon battery constantly runs low because the vehicle sits for weeks at a time. My .................. for these issues is to start the vehicles (Jag and Yukon) at least once week if I remember. I did use a solar charger on the Yukon but it was more trouble than it was worth. I used to use a 2-3 amp trickle charger on the Jag when it was in the garage. Right now, it's not. So, are the Walmart Maxx batteries crap? Who NEVER has battery issues, and what are you using???
Keep in mind that have to remove the brake lines at the pump to get the module out. The 3-4X I have done it I only lost a couple of drops of fluid, and lightly reconnected the lines during the duration of having the module out for repair.
Is that FAR different that having the lines cut just above their connection points and taking the entire assembly out? I would guess any fluid in there would rain out, but the lines are crimped, so would the inside get dirty/contaminated?
”…..Who NEVER has battery issues, and what are you using???
my batteries seem to last a decent time span.
The last batteries I had die was 10+ years old on a daily driver. It was a NAPA branded AGM battery, don’t know who makes it for them.
My XKR battery was purchased when I bought the car about 5 and half years ago. It’s also a NAPA branded AGM battery. They call it the “Legend Premium AGM Series”
I do use a battery tender on the XKR whenever the car is not in use overnight or longer.
I also have a NAPA Legend 9849 AGM battery in my wife's 2006 XK8. It was built by East Penn (which I believe builds better-quality batteries than Johnson Controls does these days). My two previous batteries in this car were Bosch (built by Johnson Controls). They each lasted right at four years before they began to weaken and cause problems....
I also have a NAPA Legend 9849 AGM battery in my wife's 2006 XK8. It was built by East Penn (which I believe builds better-quality batteries than Johnson Controls does these days). My two previous batteries in this car were Bosch (built by Johnson Controls). They each lasted right at four years before they began to weaken and cause problems....
For several years, many of the Bosch batteries were made by Varta and were truly excellent. Then Johnson Controls purchased Varta and the quality seems to have declined. The OE batteries in the Jaguar X350 were by Varta and used silver-calcium technology. Many of those batteries did not begin to lose their capacity until the cars were 8 to 10 years old. Unfortunately, silver-calcium batteries have become difficult to find.
I also have had good luck with the NAPA East-Penn/Deka batteries, but still may only get 3 to 4 years out of them.
In our "pedestrian" vehicles, like Ken I have used the Walmart batteries by Johnson Controls and Exide because of Walmart's easy-to-use warranty. I suspect the batteries are manufactured to a price point because we only get about 2-1/2 years out of them, but the cost of replacement is less than buying a new battery. In the old days, it was free and then it went up to $20.00, but I think they prorate now and it's more expensive to replace later in the warranty. I may be wrong. I switched to Exide batteries from Home Depot for our X350 and NAPA/East Penn/Deka batteries for everything else and have been happy overall.
For several years, many of the Bosch batteries were made by Varta and were truly excellent. Then Johnson Controls purchased Varta and the quality seems to have declined. The OE batteries in the Jaguar X350 were by Varta and used silver-calcium technology. Many of those batteries did not begin to lose their capacity until the cars were 8 to 10 years old. Unfortunately, silver-calcium batteries have become difficult to find.
I also have had good luck with the NAPA East-Penn/Deka batteries, but still may only get 3 to 4 years out of them.
In our "pedestrian" vehicles, like Ken I have used the Walmart batteries by Johnson Controls and Exide because of Walmart's easy-to-use warranty. I suspect the batteries are manufactured to a price point because we only get about 2-1/2 years out of them, but the cost of replacement is less than buying a new battery. In the old days, it was free and then it went up to $20.00, but I think they prorate now and it's more expensive to replace later in the warranty. I may be wrong - I switched to Exide batteries from Home Depot for our X350 and NAPA/East Penn/Deka batteries for everything else and have been happy overall.
Cheers,
Don
Great information from all of you. We need to keep up with what batteries are good for our cars, and what just don't last.
Of course, that brings us to PRICE. IF I can replace the battery before it hits the 3 year (I think that's the longest "free" replacement period for the WalMart batteries) fully covered limit, I don't lose anything to extend the life of the battery for at least 6 or 9 years. "IF". They are prorated another 2-3 years or more depending on the battery. But I was buying them for around $110, and I think current price is up to $129(?) for the same battery.
If the NAPA battery or the others cost $250, and they would last 6-8 years with no problems, then I guess it would be a wash....unless I sell the vehicle and give away an expensive battery. SO....what do these better batteries cost??
I’m calling them to be in the “better battery” class so far, and up until they prove to be duds.
Although the warranty is just the standard 3 years, I routinely get 8+ years from mine. I do have them on daily drivers. I don’t know how that affects longevity one way or the other.
Mine are also on a battery tender whenever the car is parked overnight or longer. How that affects longevity is also a crap shoot.
I purchased my NAPA AGM battery using the NAPA discount I get as an AAA Plus member. I paid $205 last August (which included giving them my old Bosch battery)....
It sounds like you have a whole lot of "believed working" parts and one of them is likely not.
First thing I would probably do is go buy a new battery, stick it in the car, charge it, and go drive for a little bit and do a bit of praying.
If your prayers have not been answered, return the battery to the shop you bought it from.
If the hail mary on the battery returned no luck, the best next bet might be to buy a cheap can bus analyzer like i did earlier in the thread, and follow along with the instructions crbass gave me to try and see if you are having the same issue that I had.
I'm getting ready to call "Gino" at Module Repair about both units failure to fix my system. I did replace the battery again a short time ago, and have been using a solar trickle charger on it.
What is the "ASC" (ASC OFF) button on the console near the radio controls????
If you disconnect the brake lines from the old ABS modulator and install the salvaged one, you will have to bleed the air from the entire brake system at all four brake calipers. I can't recall if the X100 supports bleeding the ABS module, but if so, bi-directional scan tools can force the pump to run and the valves to open to bleed air through the module.
You can avoid this by just replacing the ABS electronic module by separating it from the valve body without disconnecting the pipes. But check to see if the plastic case of the salvaged module has been sawn open and re-glued. If not, it probably has not been "rebuilt."
Cheers,
Don
FYI update: I just replaced the entire pump/module unit. Tried to fill the little brake line holes, but they only took a few drops. Finally got the lines back into the replacement pump/solenoid part.....no leaks so far. Master cyl reservoir shows full but pedal goes 80-90% down. I took it t the shop that just did a complete flush last year (about 200 miles ago tops).
ABS + CEL + Stabilty Control Fail AND...the "ASC off" light on. CRAP!
FYI update: I just replaced the entire pump/module unit. Tried to fill the little brake line holes, but they only took a few drops. Finally got the lines back into the replacement pump/solenoid part.....no leaks so far. Master cyl reservoir shows full but pedal goes 80-90% down. I took it t the shop that just did a complete flush last year (about 200 miles ago tops).
ABS + CEL + Stabilty Control Fail AND...the "ASC off" light on. CRAP!
Hi Ken,
By disconnecting the brake lines from the module, you have introduced air into the hydraulic systems for all four wheels. The air needs to be bled out through the bleed nipples at all four brake calipers. The shop will know the procedure and will ensure that the fluid in the reservoir remains full during the process so no additional air is introduced into the system.
Brake fluid is highly incompressible, which is why force applied by the master cylinder is transferred to the pistons in the brake calipers. But the air you introduced into the pipes is highly compressible, so the force from the master cylinder cannot be transferred to the brake calipers. All the force is being lost in compressing the air.
By disconnecting the brake lines from the module, you have introduced air into the hydraulic systems for all four wheels. The air needs to be bled out through the bleed nipples at all four brake calipers. The shop will know the procedure and will ensure that the fluid in the reservoir remains full during the process so no additional air is introduced into the system. Brake fluid is highly incompressible, which is why force applied by the master cylinder is transferred to the pistons in the brake calipers. But the air you introduced into the pipes is highly compressible, which is why brake force from the master cylinder is not being applied at the brake calipers. All the force is being lost in compressing the air.
Cheers,
Don
You are correct. The tech did a good flush and fill, but my pedal has never been "tight" or short. I always had a bit of a soft pedal so I think I'm back to normal. Having never driven another XK8 I don't know any different. The tech did suggest that I could have a worn out or "leaking" part of the power booster (can't remember the component he mentioned).
He also blew out my wheel sensors and then sprayed them good with brake cleaner and blew them out again. I have never had a code for any of the wheel sensors. So far, so good with that.
BUT....he did find my driver side rear outer control arm bushing is rotted and needs replacing. ALSO....the big bushing that goes between the steering rack and the inside end of the shaft boot is hanging and almost out. So, more work for me....or someone. ! He texted me some good pics of the worn bushings.
Last edited by oldjaglover; Oct 25, 2023 at 12:59 PM.
