The inertia switch has a button at the top which must be pressed down fully...never know one to be intermittent but possible. Can get triggered by a big pothole etc
You could check if you have 12v at one of the live bolts near the LH under bonnet fuse boxes ...a bulb is better than a digital meter..headlamp bulb would be perfect.
Note to the wise ..."get misled use a digital voltmeter"

 

I guess you're right, I must be blessed that so far few if any electrical gremlins have crept into this car, nor into my previous XJ6, nor my 1974 Range Rover but of course I am aware of others having many problems as I did with a Citroën CX2500 which failed due to corroded spade connectors and that was probably about 10 years old. It was however, French. Great but flawed car.

 

Electronics on a 74 Range Rover ..I think Not. Wish I still had mine they are worth a fortune.
The bit that fails is the electrolytic capacitors drying out.

 

Sorry, of course the most complicated electronics the RR had was that terrible electronic ignition which I suspect came with a retro fitted V8. Amazingly I was grumbling to a friend that I couldn't get it to work properly and it turned out he was on the development team for it and he put me on the right track. Mine was a pure off road car, bob tailed, lifted a bit and a load of smaller changes. Painted NATO matt black - some sort of paint that reduced detection which couldn't possibly have worked. But cheap and could be applied with a roller.

 

OPUS Oscillating pick up system ...They were told to put the switch box in a cool air flow so they put in between the banks of the V 8 been there done that ....

 

Thank you

I did get the car running. I believe it was battery voltage

Battery was fine. Battery tester showed 12.2 bolts and 745 cold cranking amps. Wouldn’t start. Put a jump box on it and it started. Since then it’s started several times on its own fine.

 

12.5 is probably the minimum. But if it draws down below 12 when cranking that's too low

 

more ammunition for keeping the battery at full voltage / efficiency via a battery tender whenever the car is not being driven, overnight or longer.

One cannot treat a 20 year old car with miles of wiring like it was brand new.

Z

 

Sounds like a problem waiting to rear its ugly head again.. If you had dash lights and no start it could be a starter motor problem .. brushes/contacts just depends on where the starter stops.