So I have the tools and materials required to repair this crack, but before I start dremeling, sanding, meshing, gluing and filling - is there any chance I'll be able to blend the sanded down area in with the rest of the paint job? It doesn't need to look perfect, but it does need to look better than the crack..

A picture of bumper crack sanding for reference:

The only spray touchup paint I've found is from Automotivetouchup: Spray Paint | Aerosol Touch Up | AutomotiveTouchup | 888-710-5192

Any advice on this? I'm still very low on $$$

 

The short answer is yes, you can do the sort of thing you are describing, but I doubt you will be happy with the result using those materials. I've never seen one of those spray can kits that looked good for very long.

If you are planning to keep the car, I would strongly suggest using one of the OEM paint companies like PPG or DuPont, and apply it with an airbrush for a spot tepair. Good clearcoat is a two stage mix rather like epoxy, and this can't be replicated in a can lest it turn into a rock while sitting on the shelf, so the companies that make the touchup kits have to make some compromises.

It will look much better for much longer if done with good materials and good tools.

Before you worry too much about a big bill from the auto body store I would check around for someone in you area who does this very thing. I've seen a number of the dent repair companies that also do airbrush paint repair. Some of them are even mobile and will come to you.

It's worth a few calls at least to check the pricing, you might be surprised.

 

I've now repainted two panels with celulose touch up paint and top coat, both with resonably good results, but neither were in critical locations like yours.

To get a good finish you will need to have had a lot of practice, it is really not easy to get a good finish. However if you screw it up you can just sand it off and get someone else to paint it.

2pack top coat is available in shaker cans, they have some mechanism to mix the contents only when needed, but I have not tried then yet.

See these two threads to see the results.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-repair-79511/

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-deal-74243/

 

You will need to completely paint the plastic nose with paint appropriate for the flexible surface and that is not to be found short of a superior paint shop. The average shop will paint it with the correct paint for the metal and give you an out of sight guarantee. Better done correctly than to have the next owner knock $2000 off because of the bad paint.

 

So basically I can fix the crack and give the cheap touch up paint alternative a try, then if it doesn't work or if selling get professional help for the paint job. That's probably the cheapest option.

BTW, what paint did you use for your job?

 

It came froma nationl chain in the uk called Halfords, they will mix up any paint code for you in 5 mins in a shaker can for about £15.

 

Gotcha, any CA sources for quality paint I wonder?

Paintscratch.com has primer specific for non-metal parts, but they're also quit a bit more expensive than automotivetouchup.

 

You can get some fair results with a touch up spray. If you can't find the color you need in a spray can then Preval has system that uses separate air cartridges which allow you to spray regular auto paint.

What Is The Preval Sprayer? | Preval

I recently painted a ridgid plastic moulding for my Explorer using Dupli-Color touch up in a spray can. Two coats of self-etching primer followed by three coats of color followed by four coats of clear. I let it dry two days and then wet sanded it with 1500 followed by 2000 grit. I followed this by hand buffing it with Meguiars finish glaze. Final result looked pretty good.

Like mentioned earlier, I don't think this type of paint will be very flexible. I seem to remember that paint needs a flex additive if used on flexible plastic.

 

BTW, what material is the bumper made of? Automotivetouchup has a flexible plastic adhesion primer they recommend for plastics.

 

If you are friends with a body shop, or body shop supply store, and have an airbrush you're willing to ruin, you can easily blend that. But that's the only way its going to happen.

Honestly the problem isnt the color match, its matching the clear. Do the prep work, and just let a body shop paint the cover...

Take care,

George

 

I'm going to see how far I can get with one syringe of bondo bumper repair and a 1/2 oz bottle of basecoat that I already have - brushed on. It'll reinforce the crack (drilled small holes at end end) and mask the damage, question is how well.

 

Drill the following holes:

0 <- top of crack
|
o | o
|
o | o
|
0 <- bottom of crack


Another trick they dont teach you. If you take the bumper cover off and get behind the crack. Take a soldering iron (or plastic fusing gun) and fuse the plastic together before u go to fill it.

Take care

George

 

This is how far I got using bondo and brush on touch up basecoat + clearcoat from automotivetouchup - It certainly looks better so it's a decent temp fix. I've ordered aerosol paint and will give that a shot before hitting up a paint shop.

 

Looks good. Of course, you don't know how it will hold up, but sure is better than that huge gash.
RJ_____________
97 XK8 86K mi

 

Don't forget that the really early coachbuilders painted cars with brushes. Just like a house. The difference was multiple coats and block sanding by hand. Strange but true.

 

Im not sure what sort of matrails you can get in the US but if it was mine i would take the bumper off as stated above and drill a small hole top and bottem off the crack, Then rub the whole bumper down and use plastic primer to prim and fiber glass filler and topak paint if i could get it. Also im not sure what type off wether you geting but painting on a damp/wet cold day would e a BIG no. warm the bumper before you paint and taking you time is key to a good job.