MY1998, XK8, 92,000 miles. Recently the Jag has decided it would develop a significant power steering leak someplace. I took it to the shop and was told the estimate would be about $1,100 USD for a pump replacement, hose replacement including the fluid cooler. He also gave me an estimate of $1.200 to remove and replace the oil pan, but that is another string. So, I had a very simple decision to make – do the work myself of get a divorce. I do like my wife so I am opting to do the work myself.

First thing is to get the car back and see if I can determine where it is leaking from. A friend suggested that yes, it may be the pump, or the “O” ring at the high-pressure line or possibly the reservoir cracking with the heat.

Doing my research, I find that the part and pieces are not among the “unobtainium” category. That being said, there are two main questions I have that may make life in the nether reaches of the Jag abyss just a bit easier –

1. What size is the “O” ring and are there others to be replaced?

2. The Quick Fit Connector Release tool #310-004, what size is it? I have a set from a Ford engine I stuffed into a Triumph Stag, but they are all SAE Standard and I am assuming I am dealing with metric.

Once again, and always, thanks for any advise on this.

 

Check the high pressure line under the airbox. It’s a common leak location on those early year cars.

 

I'll subscribe and help if I.can...especially if the parts design and removal are similar to my 03 as I had to replace my power steering pump last summer. It was not enjoyable to say the least. If it is a line or o, ring, that is what I am hoping for in your case.

 

I am hoping to get the car back today from the shop and start the search for the source. It would be way too lucky if it was an "O" ring. I will be updating on this one.

Thank you for the replies.

 

For the 4.2 cars, the most common power steering fluid leak occurs at the cylindrical plastic coupler in the hose below the air filter housing down near the alternator. Most folks cut that leaking coupler out of the hose and re-connect using a relatively short new section of hose with a 3/8-inch brass barb and the appropriate hose clamps. You can find that brass barb at any of the big-box home improvement stores for less than $5. Wayne (cjd777) and I did this repair on my wife's 2006 XK8 in February 2018 and it has not leaked a single drop since then....

Not sure if the 4.0 cars have that same lousy coupler but I would certainly look to see....

 

On my 99 XK8, it was bad leaks (plural) in the high pressure hose. Trouble was the new replacement hose isn’t the same and has a new route through the engine bay. Obviously it was because the OEM design passed too close to something hot.



if you find this is the problem, I have more info on the fix.



pic of hose touching hot pipe leading to melted hole.

 

USE the guy at the shop to give you specific answers to WHERE the leak is to make life easier... This is a doable job for sure.

For the oil pan, I am blown away at the expense. Did the pan hit something while driving? If not, doable too.

Please report back and PLEASE get the specifics on exactly where your leak is coming from. Sometimes you'll have to wrestle for an answer and try not to let the person know that it's because you plan on doing the job yourself,,, if ya know what I mean...?

 

Just talked to him, let him know I will pick up the car this afternoon. He said he would show me the leak, swears it is from the pump, dripping down on the AC compressor. We will see, I want to see it myself.

On the oil pan, it has scrapped before. The previous owner apparently put lowered springs on the front (-2.5 in.) stock height in the rear. So it has picked up a scrape or two, but not enough to dent the oil pan.

Will update on both.

 

Yes. Good show! Let them know that money is tight and you intend to bring it back shortly but that you would like to SEE it. Then take some photos when home and post them up here.

You can get a pan for super cheap with zero scuffs or dents on ebay and a gasket (I think it's the type of gasket that fits in a little grove on the engine side of the seal) for like 12 bucks or something on rockauto. Spend 80 bucks and fix both things..

If you jack up the front of the car a bit, drain the oil, then jack it up a good bit higher (thing is I think the damn drain plug is on the FRONT of the pan) and get a cordless wratchet on the 8mm or 10mm bolts, you can have the pan off in 15min and the new one on in the same amount of time. Easy peasy.

Mechanics (and I understand everyone has to eat) are unreal in what they charge.

 

I guess what also matters is what they are calling the "oil pan"... There are 2 things... The large is the whole BOTTOM plate of the engine,,, I find it highly unlikely that that's the issue.

Look at this on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324032586701

Look at this on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/233649969897

 

When he is talking about the oil pan it is the pressed metal pan with the oil drain plug. It didn't sound like much work to change. Tracking it now, sounds like it will be an hour job.

 

It really is good Brother...
Put your wallet away,,,
Impress your wife, lol...

You got this.

The only thing that breaks my brain about these machines is the old computer stuff and software... The mechanical is all right there for ya. Not bad at all. Some tricks, but doable.

 

David; I really need your help with this pump/line R&R. All the replacement HP lines I see are the straight hose-to-pump without the 90 degree steel tube bend. If that hot spot is the reason I think I'd try to shield it before I replace the entire HP line (IF it is still in good condition).

But my bigger problem right now is trying to get that line-to-pump NUT loose and removed. I think I have a pump leak, but it doesn't matter if I can't break that nut loose to release the line. The only wrench we could get down in there and not be restricted by the A/C line is a 5/8" "stubby". There is not enough torque we can apply to break the nut loose. Nothing else will fit except maybe a crows foot, which we don't have right now.

INFO: I am trying to do this with the pump still bolted in so we can get leverage. I have read of some members removing the pump to get at the nut. I'm thinking of removing the lower bolt to swing the pump up just enough to make sure we are grabbing the right nut. 5/8" (16mm) seems too large for a line that is only 5/16" or so, but no one has suggested a smaller wrench for that nut.

FINALLY!

My son placed a 1/2" X 36" round breaker bar against the a/c pulley and gave the 5/8" stubby a little push. The nut FINALLY broke loose. That's way over the top for normal maintenance.

We have been searching for an "O" ring seal. So far, not finding one on the line connection or up in the pump with a small pick. All the replacements I see for sale have an "O" ring at the end. So....hmmmmmmmmm.....I guess removal of the pump has once again become mandatory.

I would rather keep this original HP line with the 90 degree bend. The newer lines/fittings look even harder to line up and start threading in.

Anyway, "good" for now.

Ken

 

Ken,

Sorry to hear about your woes. My new replacement hose was installed (with new O rings on the new hose) using my friendly local mechanics car lift for ease of access. He had all the tools and yes the pump did come out to ease alignment of the new route for the different hose. I don’t remember any issues with O rings.

I think I had a different job to your situation. I always keep boxes of spare O Rings but interestingly I now exclusively use green Nitrile O rings used in AC industry.

Good luck.

 

Thanks for your info on the Nitrile O rings. I used to have a bunch of them but even if I could fi8nd them they'd be over 10 years old. Time to get new ones.

Gotta ask: WHAT and WHERE is the "hot spot" in the line. That looks deadly!

Which way did you route your new line? Something about the motor mount I have read.

Ken