We are just about to replace the burner in our XK8RS headlamp and then possibly the ballast. I have just read that the system has to be re-initialized using Jag Diagnostics. Or disconnect the battery before starting? Any advice please?

Excellent advice on this forum by the way.

 

You can replace the HID's and the combined Ballast/Leveling Module without any special precautions other than not touching the bulbs with bare hands to avoid contamination.

The Jaguar Workshop Manual (JTIS) normally advises battery disconnection before working on any of the electrics but does not include this in the bulb or ballast replacement procedure. Ignition and lights switched off is sufficient.

If the dynamic leveling has failed, it sets to a default position. Replacement of the Module usually reactivates it although subsequent headlamp adjustment may be required.

Graham

 

I believe I soon may be replacing the ballasts in mine. They both have a slight but continuous flicker.

JBD: Please share the details of what you encounter doing the swap; especially the "gotchas" and things that don't go according to the manual.

Thanks & Good Luck!

 

Will do. Sems like plugging it in is the trickiest bit. See here:

 

sorry, you said ballasts not bulbs! See this for access to removing headlamp;

 

Wasn't the bulb so have a ballast on the way. Seems like this car has had similar problems before as the securing bolt under the headlamp is not present. Headlamp is also still not dry despite 2 go's with hairdryer plus silica gel treatment and ventilation improvement. Why should it change after 6 years in the same parking spot? Is El Nino 2016 that severe?!!

Still this is Jaguar, the brand that gives you chocolate suspension - jeez my Alfas never had this amount of low mileage bother. And before you all say it not quite as much oomph but there again Alfa has other compensations... I still love both despite any problems, so far anyway!

 

Well it is done. It turns out that someone has been in here before possibly for the same reason. The bolt underneath the headlamp was still present but the insert it was screwed to had been smashed out of the headlamp nacelle. This made getting the unit out a little more tricky. We had to hold the insert with mole grips while undoing the torx headed bolt. A bit of copper ease or loctite might have prevented this problem. Not sure if this had broken away during manufacture or afterwards anyway?

Once that was solved we got the unit out with the usual sort of turning and tilting. Ballast was easy to replace. We debated about sealing the ballast box better as both connectors are wide open to water ingress as are the joins on the bottom of the unit. In the end we didn't, kept it standard. It looked like so much water had run down into the bottom of the headlamp unit that it had drowned the ballast. Now it may have been condensation or it is just possible that the other afterthought mod of the little additional duct had been dislodged. Now anchored in place with sealant.

The ballast board looked totally goosed, I had harboured thoughts of repairing it. Now I come to think about it maybe we should have drilled some holes in the bottom to allow any water to get out, but would that allow water to get in from below?

We applied the T shaped tube modification and I have also sealed the top seam where the front part of the headlamp joins with some 3M butyl sealant. As well as drilling holes in the bulb access cover and covering those with some breathable material used in roofing. And a couple of sachets of silica gel inside the unit too.

This whole episode has cost about £200 and been a pain to do in comparison to £5 for a halogen which takes no time to replace? I hear that if you have Led lights that this is cheap!

If these fancy lights give better light then it is the same as 4 wheel drive, you'll just be going faster when you leave the road.

Anyone for acetylene lamps?!! If it happens again I'll seriously investigate a halogen conversion.

One last thing, while researching this I found that Subaru, Toyota and Audi all seem to suffer troubles like this. The costs quoted were similar or in Subaru's case higher than Jaguar. Early adopters of 'new' technology beware!

 

Thanks JBD. Doesn't seem as daunting as I'd feared. I guess getting the headlight fixture out (once the securing bolt is removed) is something you just figure out on the go. I wonder how much more complicated the washer system will make the procedure?

 

Hello Scardini,

Wish I had taken pics now! The washer fits into a triangular bracket under the headlamp and there are two 'tangs' that unclip it. You are best to unclip it with the nacelle loose but in the car. Refitting is a bit awkward but possible. If you remove the pipe to take it out the elbow of the washer front part fouls the bodywork making it almost impossible to push the unit back in. So fiddly but there are worse jobs! Good luck and I hope your repair goes smoothly. I washed the car and we had snow yesterday, I am pleased to report that I still have a dry headlamp despite a frost this morning. Worth also fitting the rubber t piece mod while you are in there too as they are inexpensive and it is a 2 minute job. Watch that the t piece doesn't spring off when re-fitting the unit but console yourself with the fact that you can put it on with the headlamp in place. In fact I would recommend doing just that as if it did drop inside the front you'd have to take the bottom tray off to get at it. Maybe you'd get away with just replacing the bulbs?

 

ps we didn't remove the liner, my mechanic friend was able to get at the lower bolt fairly easily. One reason I work with him is that he is well versed in getting at things like that. Give me two wheels anyday, access is so much easier!

 

Good info! Hopefully I can put this off for a while. I don't know much about HID systems. It just seems logical that my slight flickering would be caused by the ballasts and not the bulbs. I guess it "could" be the bulbs though.

BTW: how difficult was it to loosen the nacelle (cowl/snoot)?

 

Sorry I think I must have used the wrong term. When I say nacelle I just mean the headlamp unit. All we did was remove the access panel in the wheel arch with the wheel turned in all the way. The lower bolt is in line with that panel, approximately under the inner side of the indicator (turn signal) compartment of the headlamp.

The job was made somewhat easier with the lower bolt having broken away as we could see in from the top too by lifting the headlamp after removing the top bolt and nut. When refitted the headlamp seems snug without the lower bolt (a torx head) I'll keep an eye on it and if I have to may stick it down with some 3M butyl sealant.

Incidentally I managed to drill out the other headlamp to accept the t piece mod on the car: if you have a flexible drill chuck or a neat sized drill it isn't so hard

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

Here are the panels I bought as back up in case drilling out the originals turned out to be a bad idea:

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
m=47&c=13599&s=4512&a=13306

here's the bulb source, I'm sure you'll find same deal or better in the states

1 x Genuine Philips XenStart D1S 35W, 9285 141 294 Bulb ! 24 h DISPATCH TIME !! | eBay

 

Whew! Thanks for clearing up the nacelle thing.

The link for the panel was sour. Could you try that one again please?

 

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

Part number is JLM20281 in case this link is bad too. Just search for it in SNGs site.

Heavy rain here last night. Dry headlamps! Now to sort out that rattly rear shock/bush!

 

Ahhh, .... I "just" replaced both of those panels/covers a couple of months ago. They do little good on my car though - I doubt I could reach anything through them - the radiator brace goes right over the top. But my other ones were shot and I wanted to improve the seal. I may already have the T-Fittings installed. I think I saw them a couple of years ago, but they'll definitely be on the headlights after I attack them.