Rev Sam's videos are your friend.

Just search you-tube for videos such as this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBHALcuwi3Y#t=575.35408

 

You could have saved yourself a world of pain by feeding some emery paper around the bolt in the recess in the subframe. Clean off all of the rust and scale then plenty of WD40, you said that you can rotate it so the issue isn't the hole, just keep turning it and hitting the threaded end at the same time. As it comes off , clean off the step on the bolt in the recess again, spray and knock the bolt back in. keep repeating, you may need some heat on the ali but not too much and it should fly out. Cutting it is really a last resort and limits you options later on,if it can turn you can remove it,if it cant, you are not applying enough force. Rust in the recess is a jaguar known issue and they issued a service builtin to dealers to pump the recess with waxoyl at every service.

 

The issue usually isn't just "scale on the bolt". The bushing sleeves rust to the bolt.

Pounding on the bolt will slam rusted steel sleeve into the soft aluminum subframe. Cutting the bolt is a much better option than any option that involves hammering steel into aluminum.

The cost of a bolt (which is rusted anyway) and some caster shims is pretty small when compared to replacing a damaged subframe.

 

Maybe, but the jaguar service builtin mentions corrosion between the subframe and the bolt, probably electrolytic. Which is exactly the issue I had and I followed that advice and managed to do the job without damage to either the bolts or the subframe. If you look at the first picture, that is the corrosion that I mentioned and without removing that , that bolt was never going to come out without some damage somewhere.

 

I have to agree with ungn phanc the sleeve was pretty mutch welded to the bolt and bashing it out wouldn't have been possible the burs on the shaft of the bolt that wouldn't
allow the bolt to pass threw the bolt hole where the bolt had been gouged by being bashed about in the bolt hole not carotion

 

Its good you got the bolt out without too much damage.


While the wishbone/fender liner is out of the car, check the car's body behind the wishbone upright of the subframe for rust. This seems to be a common area for rust on X100's.


Hopefully it is fine.


The swaybar bushes are a little easier to swap/install with the liners out, too (if they are damaged/missing), just because you can see them from the below.


With upper wishbones off, consider installing new Upper shock mounts, and replacing inner and outer tie rods (Because you can replace the inner tie rods with an adjustable crescent wrench with everything apart and not need the special tool). With the boots off the inner tie rods, removing the lower arm bolts is easy, so you can consider doing the lower wishbone bushes.


It can quickly spiral out of control and before you know it the whole front end is new.

 

I didn't need to remove the wheel arch liner so cant see behind there at the moment ill try peeling back and have a look ive removed the lower wish bone aswell as I intended
to renew all bushes whilst ive got it in pieces had to remove steering rack boots to clear
back lower wishbone bolt I also intend to replace tie rod ends ive never heard of the inner
tie rod ends

 

The inner tierods thread into the rack. They have a large hex head on them (under the boot) that generally requires a special "inner tie rod removal tool" to un thread them from the rack.


With the suspension out of the car, you can get on the Hex with a large adjustable wrench and loosen them up.


The Inner Tie rods are supposed to be very tight (ball in socket) with no play. My 85K mile inner tie rods were floppy and allowed visible wheel turning movement with the rack not moving.


The rack boots slide off relatively easily by popping off the metal band clamp (gently so it can be reused or roughly and replace with a zip tie) and using locking pliers on the spring clamp. Apply a little lube under the bellows and it should slide down the tierod.

 

ill take a look at that ungn .I'm now looking at reassembly and looking for a lot of advise
firstly shims and washer locations ive seen the diagram for shim location two thick onethin
in front and thin in back when I cut threw bolt it was difficult to know what was washer
and what was cut bush I have one or two washers with a raised side I take it shim goes
against bush and raised edge of washer goes against shim ive been unable to download
manual so sorry if I'm asking silly questions

 

This PDF has a few pics and info that might be helpful. Download link below.

XK8 Front Suspension How To

 

thanks rothwell

 

doesn't realy show washer location

 

The Washers you take out should have rubber stuck to one side of them. This side goes against the bushes (the rubber is from the bushes).


You need to be sure all of the stuck on rubber is cleaned off the washers or they will squeak, so remember what side the rubber is on, then clean all of it off.


The Shims are for Caster and US and UK cars are shimmed opposite to account for road crowning (to make the car tend to turn up the crown instead of away from the crown).
I live/drive in the city and spend more time in the left lane than the right, so I just shimmed both sides for Max Caster and called it good.

 

Hi Jag1968,

Check the pic. in this post from Jandreu:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post1009615

Mike

 

thanks ungn the scamatic on sng barrat states four washers per side I guess ether side of bush with shim sitting against bush also I have to press out and in ball joint on upper
wish bone would a one tone arbor press be capable of this job or should I get engineering shop to do it thanks again for the help

 

thanks Michael that's a great help

 

The trick to the upper ball joint is to cut away some of the flange with a cut off wheel or saw so that the removal cup seat better. One ton may not be enough. It might take closer to 5 tons.

I estimate the lowers take about 12 tons.

 

Hi guys going to let engineering shop press in ball joint.
Orders some eccentric bolts from sng but I fail to see
How they can give any adjustment out side the bolt holes

 

Eccentric bolts for what?

If the front suspension has too much negative camber for the MOT, it most likely needs new upper shock mounts.

Camber is mostly a function of ride height. Too low and there will be too much negative camber. New upper shock mounts will raise the front end about 1" and should bring the camber into spec. Shock mounts are easiest to change with the wishbone out of the car, so you are 1/2 way there.

 

Thanks ungn didn't fail on camber but when I've tried to get four wheel alignment in the past couldn't because it didn't have eccentric bolts I guess I'll see if they have any effect when they turn up