The rear lower upright/bearing housing pivot bolts are eccentric. You can tell by the little arrow on the washer/bolt head. Those are definitely needed to set the rear toe in back. Weird someone would replace them with a regular bolt.

If you take the rear upright off the lower control arm (after removing the bolt), you'll find lower pivot bearings that can be cleaned/greased. If you just replace the bolt without removing the arm, the bearings should stay in place and not fall out.

If your current bolts have an arrow on the head, mark the location of the arrow, before removal.

 

I had the same problem. After much struggling I DID finally get it off. The problem was that the "Lug Nut" that put the washers on the bolt put one on that was a press fit. I ground out the hole some and it worked out fine. What fool would put a press fit washer at that location?

 

hi guys I may be a little confused the rear wheels have the eccentric bolts
but the front doesn't as I under stand jaguar fitted these cars with normal bolts in front
but u can replace these for eccentric

 

Only the lower fronts can get eccentric bolts and these are for Camber. Proper ride height is the true solution to excessive negative camber, and new upper shock mounts correct the ride height back to factory spec.


Front bolts are a bandaid for "lowered" or damaged cars and should not be needed for a normal car.






The rear Eccentric bolts are for rear wheel toe.

 

thanks ungn getting bad ware on tyres not been able to get four wheel alignment in the past because lack of bolts so wanted to get eccentrics could just be tracking but would like to go four four wheel alignment

 

You most likely need New upper shock mounts. That should fix inner tire wear in front. If too much negative camber (and inner tire wear) in back, the solution is thicker camber shims on the half shafts.

Too check the condition of the upper shock mounts, take the shock/spring assy out of the car (lower shock bolt, 3 capped nuts on inner fender) and look at the upper shock mount.
If the foam in the mount is compressed, crumbling and/or the shock nut is not centered in the mount, you need new mounts. The foam should be at least 1/2" thick and elastic. This should fix the tire wear issues without an eccentric band-aid.

 

I used an air hammer, knocked each bolt out in about half an hour. Had to replace one of the two bolts.

I thought about cutting but decided not to. I figured an angle grinder would take a long time if you could even get it between the subframe and the control arm and after you cut it you would have two bolt halves with one of them probablystill stuck.

 

Can anyone give me torque settings for front suspension
I've tried down loading jtsi a number of times with no success got a computer geek trying to do it for me at
The moment as for reasons for tyre wear I will look into
This at a later date just want to get car back on the foad
At the moment

 

 

Thanks auburn

 

Before you torque everything down, you should take off the 3 nuts on the inner fender holding the upper shock mount in place and lower the spring/shock assembly low enough that you can observe the condition of the upper shock mount foam.

It should look like this:





And not like this:




or this:



If it looks like either of the bottom two, your tires will wear on the inside and the Camber will be out of spec if they check that for the MOT.

 

thanks ungn ill look into that

 

Hi Jag1968. Did you ever get the front pivot bolt out? I ran into the same problem when replacing my upper bushings. Ultimately, I just bashed the bolt out, destroying what was left of my bushings (they were toast). But in order to get the bolt completely removed, I had to Dremel cut the remains of the bushing sleeve off the bolt so that the outer washer would slide free. Maybe I "should" have replaced the bolt, but it wasn't too bad and the project needed to be completed that day (I had no choice). That was maybe 50,000 miles ago. No problems since.

 

Hi scardin I managed to get bolt out in the end had to cut bolt tried bashing it out first with
The lack of space to swing hammer didn't seen possible been putting back together
Today another frustrating day got new bolt four washers and shims two thick
Two thin from sng but washers wear so tight on bolt I had to hammer them on wich
Created problems upper shock mount seemed in very good condition ungn but I'm a little
Concerned as doesn't look as it did when I started two thick one thin shim in front
One thin in back

 

Before



After

 

Mine would spin. I reinstalled the 24mm nut a few turns and I was able to hit the nut end thru flush. After this, no amount off turning, hamming, chiseling and penetrating oil helped The bolt would turn easily and move 1/4 in and out but it would not pound out. The only method that really worked was wedging. I used several open end wrenches to take up the increasing gap on the bolt head end and a ball joint pickling fork to wedge in and pry between the last wrench and the bushing. This worked every time. Spread gap by prying away from the beveled side of the fork then slide in the fork in a bit more, spread again. Every 1/4" or so, stuck another open end wrench or monkey wrench and start prying in line with the bolts axis.
I did let the liquid wrench sit over night and used BP blaster between pry attempts.

 

Cool wedging idea. Never thought of that one.
John

 

So the nut is 24mm? A 1" mechanical nut-cracker (makes me grimace to just write that) similar to this 7/8" might work. There has to be a 1 incher somewhere.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-A...ker/1000595029

It all depends on access to the bolt/nut. Crack the nut then remove the widgets behind it using lots of PB Blaster and a small lever bar. Anyway, this almost always works on my 1989 Jeep Wrangler and she sits out in the elements 98% of the time. Good luck.