I have an electric problem w/ Door Lock Actuators - They keep blowing the Number 2 (10 amp) fuse on the pass side dash panel. Everything works fine, until the fuse burns out. [/align][/align]The driver sidemechanical lock works OK and both interior handles are functional.Any trouble shootingideas before I pull off door panels? What to look for for first? [/align][/align]gordo[/align]
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Had this problem in a car once. Changed out the fuse for an auto reset breaker. Worked fine.

 

What is that part? Where is the fuse located?

 

Gordo, here are some troubleshooting ideas you may want to look into.

Is there any chance a 10 amp fuse is not the proper size fuse for that number two slot? Some fuse blocks are labeled better than others. Ten amps sounds to me like it might be a little small for that circuit.

If 10 amps is the proper size to use, is there any chance you have a poorly made box of replacement fuses that blow at say 8.5 amps and not 10.

You may want to check and see if this circuit needs a "slow-blow" kind of fuse. This is a fuse that can handle a little more of a surge than a standard fuse with the same rating.

You might try to cycle each door lock by hand and check for binding in the mechanism. This would cause the circuit to pull more amps.

I hope this turns out to be an easy fix for you.

Joe





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Joe: Thanks for your response.

The 10 amp rating is listed in the owner's manual, so that much is a given.

However, your idea of finding another set of 10 amp fusesso far seems to bethe answer. Likeyou, I was thinking maybe the fuses themselves were defective and I substituteda different brand of 10 amp. So far after 36 hrs,it is working fine.This is in stark contrast to the first batch of similarly rated 10 amp fuses that would burn out within fiveor ten cycles of the door actuator mechanisms. So I think you are correct here.

Also, your idea of checking the mechanical linkages will be followed.Before this series of events, the door lock would sometimesrecycle rapidly several times over when pulling open the driver's side door handle uponexiting the car.There could be something sticking, or more likely, the relay could be malfunctioning.

Do you know where the door actuator relay is located? Thx Again. Gordo

 

Gordo

I had little experience with the door latching system on my 93 xjs. What I found was a malfunction in the latching mechanism. A little lubrication went a long way. Yours on the other hand could be a latching mechanism, control cable or a bad relay. I would suggest opening the door panel and take a look. Often the cable can get worn and begin binding in the sheath causing to operate slower hence causing the fuse to blow. I would however check the fuse size to verify the proper size. I would not up the fuse!

 

Gordo,

This is what I was talking about:
http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servl...151&page=1

Sometimes fuses are used at their limits in cars. In this type of circuit, over time, the lubrication in the linkages gets stiff and the motors/solenoids get weaker causing more current to be used. By all means check out the linkages for proper operation. If the handle opens and closes by hand easily, it could just be an old motor/solenoid that is requiring more current to operate. My only concern is that you stated that it would cycle a few times when used. This could be the reason the fuse is blowing intermittently. The auto-breaker solution is not a cure for a short circuit.

 

I have not seen a breaker like that. Good to know that they are available.

 

You're welcome Gordo.

Sorry, but I can't help you with the location of the relay. I have only had my Jaguar a few months. I was just throwing out some generic troubleshooting ideas.

It did catch my eye when you said, " the door lock would sometimesrecycle rapidly several times over when pulling open the driver's side door handle uponexiting the car" This does sound like it might be a relay acting up. Have you tried to open the passanger door to see if it acts the same way? If it works properly, I wonder if this would point to a faulty switch hooked to the driver door handle, and not the relay? Again, I have no idea how this circuit is set-up, I'm just throwing some ideas on the table.

Joe
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Followup:

So far the fuse has been OK. It is still a 10amp like the original. I think it was a faulty box of fuses. gordo