The other day, I received the Coolant Low alert on my way home from work, temp was reading 201 via Torque Pro. Immediately pulled over and shut car off - no visible indications of leak anywhere that I could see.


I let the car sit for a while, then filled the reservoir, started the car and again looked for any tell-tale signs of leakage but nothing, not even the smell of burning antifreeze like I had when the valley hoses and octopus hose went south. Not even any puddles.


Today I checked the coolant level and slightly down but no puddles under the car. Started her up and went looking again and just under the radiator, noticed a drip - think I found my leak . Pics are a little hard to see but passenger side of radiator appears to have a leak.


so - any thoughts on using a bottle of the Liquid aluminum radiator stop leak until I can source a replacement radiator?

 

In my travels here I have read it is not wise to put any sealers in the cooling system on these cars. Others should chime in with the same??
As for that temp, that is not a bad temp on this car depending current driving conditions at temp read. But you SHOULD fix the radiator and not drive till then on the off chance it decides to go at once and the temp is then far worse.

 

Are you sure you don't have a bad radiator hose at the connection to the radiator? At running temp is is leaking down the side of radiator (due to heat is drying out) but gets to where it is sitting that you can see it???

 

Tim - I felt around the hose connection and it wasn't wet but the upper/lower rad hoses are the only hoses I haven't replaced. I will see if I can get a better picture of the area.


The wet area is about 2 inches down from the upper hose connection

 

The problem with radiator stop leak is that it circulates
throughout your cooling system including your heater
cores.

Using stop leak will result in future problems and a
whole bunch of work/expense beyond the radiator itself.

 

when it is hot and running, try jiggling the hose at the connection to radiator, see if that makes it leak at all on the bottom side of the hose. Prob not that lucky to be the issue but is free and easy to check.

 

Plums - that what I was afraid of - did see RockAuto has replacement for under $200


Tim- will try that and update

 

Looking at the picture, that is not an original clamp so someone
has already been there. The hose looks squishy. Since a new
radiator would involve a new hose, maybe that can be your
first stop.

In fact, you might try removing that end to get a better look,
clean off the connection and reattach the hose. Careful not to
overdo it on tightening the clamp.

 

I agree with this approach. Look it over really good first then pull the hose and clean the hose or replace it and the other end before putting it together. If you still have a leak do a pressure test and hope you will see a stream at the point of the leak.

 

started car and let get to temp - found the culprit - indeed the radiator at the seam

 

damn, well radiator time. You ganna do it your self or pay someone?

 

Nice pretty GREEN coolant

At least it lasted 15 years. I hear that on BMW's
radiators are a maintenance item.

 

See if you can find a radiator rebuilding shop in your area I know most are a thing of the past but it might be worth looking into.

 

may do myself - the only thing that concerns me is depressurizing the A/C. Will call Indie on Monday to see how much they would charge and go from there.

 

haha - yes nice pretty green!


Gus - will look into that option

 

I am not sure the A/C is an issue but the trans fluid cooler might be.

 

Stop leak products used to be put in most all new cars cooling systems at the factory to proactively prevent seepage and silicate deposits. Nothing particularly evil about them. Here's straight from an AC Delco technical bulletin.

"There was a time when seal tabs were installed in every new vehicle at the factory to account for the inevitable small leaks that occur in castings, joints, and so on. By the mid 1990s, manufacturing and machining techniques had improved to the point where the seal tabs were no longer needed on a universal basis. With the introduction of long-life coolant, silicate deposits also were no longer a concern, so the scrubbing action from the seal tab fibers was no longer needed."

But the factories would only use like one or two tablespoons worth in 3 gallons of coolant. When people have a problem with the stop leak products, its because they fell into the trap of "if a little helps, then a lot must help a lot" and its just possible that some products instructions may even be over generous. Its often sold in quantities far greater than should ever be used in one car.

I have managed to use one or two ginger root tablets to stop the occasional radiator drip on old cars, but unfortunately my experience if the pinhole is from corrosion, it doesn't take long before its rotted out the pinhole bigger than the little fibers can plug. It could buy a few months or a year, but eventually it always has to be fixed.

 

The trans cooler is integral is it not? Connections on the left side tank?

Some ATF will dribble out and need replacement, but that's about it.

The AC condenser is in front of the radiator, so I can't see a problem
with that.

 

It is not necessary to disconnect the A/C connections to R&R the radiator. You do have to loosen the bracket to make room.

I had some temporary luck with my leak using JB Water Weld. http://www.jbweld.com/products/waterweld-epoxy-putty This assumes the leak is from the plastic side tanks and not the aluminum part of the radiator.

Make sure the car has cooled off and drain enough coolant to drop the level below the leak. Then lightly sand the area around the leak and apply one thin coat and one medium coat of the stuff, drying coats in between of course.

Not a permanent fix, but will hold you until you can swap out for a new one. You might also look for a radiator shop that will swap out those plastic side tanks for aluminum ones. The plastic just can't take the punishment under the hood long term IMHO.

 

Just use caution when removing the fittings for the trans from the radiator I understand they are not friendly.