Thanks ALL!!!! The trans cooler didn't seem like a big deal but the procedure said to depressurize the A/C as well as disconnecting receiver/dryer and the condenser


Radiator Vehicles Without: Supercharger 26.40.01 Removal

1. Open the driver's door, or both doors if necessary, to allow the side windows to drop. Ensure that the doors remain open until after the battery has been disconnected


2. Open the engine compartment and fit paintwork protection sheets.

3. Disconnect the battery ground cable. Remove the battery cover.

4. Drain the coolant from the radiator.

5. Depressurise the climate control system. Refer to Operation <<82.30.30>>. Observe all safety warnings and precautions stated in that section


6. Remove the air cleaner assembly; refer to Operation 19.10.05.


And............

15. Disconnect the pipe from the climate control receiver / drier.


16. Disconnect the pipe from the climate control condenser joint (condenser to compressor).




If I can't find a local repair place and can get away with just disconnecting the trans cooler then it shouldn't be all too difficult and I will try myself

 

Thanks Mike - I was just going to ask if there was some type of external epoxy that might work. It looks like it is the plastic - so may try that tomorrow - at least a temporary fix

 

I would strongly advise parking it until you can fix the problem properly. You mentioned "stop leak" there are a lot of products out there that can cause build up in the system including plugging up your heater core, especially if your car already has a lot of miles and build up of contaminants or jelled coolant. Personally I would rather change of the Radiator which is in the open and easy to get at than the heater core.

 

Always rectify the cause and not the symptoms, that way your engine will last a lot longer.

 

rperformance, Jim - no doubt need to replace the radiator - going to try the jb waterweld tomorrow until new radiator comes in (just to keep it from leaking all over the garage floor). At 149K on the clock (58k done in my hands over the last 4 years) I want to keep her around a lot longer!!!

 

Not sure if someone else mentioned it, but worth repeating. For any plastic fitting you should always use the oem style spring clamps. The spring clamps allow for thermal expansion and contraction without unduly stressing the plastic fittings. Lots of information regarding this subject if you do a search.


Of course there will also be those who chime in to say they have used screw type clamps on plastic radiator fittings for years without a problem, to which I say "good for you".

 

I always prefer the sping clamps. The problem is in scrounging
them

As for JB Weld and the garage floor, why bother?

Just drain the radiator far enough to avoid a drip,
or drain completely as prep for the upcoming work.

If you are pretty sure the right radiator is going to
arrive, you could spend some time on prep for the
job such as the draining, loosening of fasteners.

Oh, and buy new hoses, ATF to finish the job.

There may be an o-ring in the transmission line fittings
that you cannot lose. I've forgotten, but look out for them
just in case.

The fittings aren't very tight but use care anyways.

 

no idea when the clamps were changed - this hose and the small hose at the top of the thermostat housing have the screw clamps - all others are spring clamps. plan on replacing hoses as these have been on for the 4 years I've owned - all other cooling hoses have been replaced within the last year.

 

let's start the mandatory "since you're in there" part of the thread now

 

Yes would be a great time to replace the water pump and serpentine belt and idlers as they will never be easier to get at.



Dave

 

I just looked at my 99 and the JTIS for a 2000 and you will need to remove the transmission hoses based on what I can see on both. As for the A/C dryer hose I think you might get away with not removing it, I believe it is to have better access to the radiator. I would leave the A/C hose for last and see how it goes. As for the hose clamps I am using the same clamps you have and have had no issues with them to date.

 

Mine is an '01 and the transmission cooling is part of the radiator, so the two hoses do have to be disconnected. However it is very easy. Loosen one nut each and gently pull the lines out of the radiator. Remember they will have transmission fluid in them. I put a ballon over the end of the lines, held with a rubber band. The amount of fluid lost was very small. Maybe a few drops.

Again, the charged A/C lines do not need to be disconnected. Just loosen the bracket on the dryer unit to give yourself some extra room.

 

Just use caution when removing the trans lines I understand they may be a problem and you do not need to make this worst.

 

That's your call, but with the mileage that you already have clocked, I would bet there is a lot of crud in the system already. Stop Leak is not a fix, but a Band-Aid. A drip pan is cheaper, you're going to have to empty the system anyways, so why induce more crap into the system and possibly induce heater core problems along with the radiator?


My car only has 15K miles but when I changed the coolant (orange) last spring, I found Jelling at the top of the system. Be sure to back flush yours and then use distilled water during refill. Some municipal systems have lots of iron which you don't need.

 

no stop leak used - based on the comments provided. radiator and hoses are ordered so should have by Wednesday and ride arranged for work the next 2 days. As always - I appreciate all the feedback you guys have provided!!

 

Called indie just to see how much he'd charge to install ($1100 without my club discount) nah will do myself but on a good note cancelled my order as he will have parts this afternoon for me to pick up so will be putting in this afternoon or tomorrow!

 

Just an opportunity to remind folks that conventional antifreeze even in extremely small quantities is both attractive (sweet) and deadly for cats and dogs. A few years ago a friend lost a beloved dog when he went in the house for just a couple of minutes while draining his radiator. Even though he was quick about getting to the vet, the standard emergency treatment of intravenous Everclear was not successful in saving the dog.

 

no doubt - will keep garage closed due to the number of strays around here. Picked up parts on way home from work - so will close this task out by the weekend

 

I want to see the old one and the cause of the leak.

 

My money is on the passenger-side tank having a crack or cracks on the side that faces the engine.