Hi, I'm about to tackle my first front brake pad replacement on and XK8. The How to is really helpful, but I have 3 questions:

1) They mention "caliper Pins" several times. Are these the bolts that connect the caliper to the wheel? 7mm allen as I recall.

2) The string reminds us to use Anti Squeal grease. Is this the same thing as the brake grease I purchased, or is it a different animal? I see from the notes that the brake grease goes on the caliper pins mentioned above.

Simple questions I'm sure, but I want to be sure to get it right. Thanks for looking.

3) n your opinion, how long will this job take, 30 min per brake?

 

Caliper pins are essentially the smooth metal part of the caliper bolts that the brake pads slide on as they squeeze to grab the rotors and stop the car. As the pads gradually wear, they slide inward towards the rotor surface on both sides of the rotor. Yes, you unbolt the caliper pins with your Allen wrench. Once you have those bolts in your hand, you'll see the smooth metal part of the bolt. That's where you apply a small amount of caliper grease. I prefer the synthetic kind. A small tube of it will last for dozens of brake jobs if not more. A little goes a long way so don't load your pins up like whipped cream on a slice of pumpkin pie....

I would allow at least 30 minutes per wheel, especially if you've never done a brake pad replacement job before. Sometimes you have to fight the caliper assembly to release and come away from its mounting frame after you have removed the bolts. A big rubber mallet can often help with this part of the job, as can a large flat-blade screwdriver for leverage. You'll go to school on the first wheel, so the second one will go much easier and faster for you....

Have a spray can of brake parts cleaner on hand. Various parts of your caliper assembly will be grimy and possibly sticky, so clean the parts once you have them disassembled. Just don't spray any cleaner on your new pads or on the rotor if you can help it....

Good luck....

 

Thanks a million Jon!!! Great description mate.

John K.

 

Possible problem.
I just purchased a set of ceramic brake pads from AutoZone to replace the pads on my car. The old pads are still thick and work very well, but I just wanted to get rid of the da-- dust.
After doing all the disassembly and cleaning things up with spray and applying new grease etc., I installed the new pads and attempted to put things back together again and could not get the new pads over the rotor. Yes I compressed the piston with my kit compressor, but that still didn't work. After doing every thing I could, they just wouldn't go over the rotors, just too thick. I ended up putting the old pads back on, and am now sitting here with my new pads in their little box. Any idea's out there????

 

You need to further compress the piston back into the caliper. Sometimes, especially if there is a tear in the rubber boot that protects the piston, rust forms on the outer edge of the piston and then it will not compress far enough back in to allow new pads to fit around the rotor

 

Excellent description.

Note that the calipers on our cars are not the 'fixed' type meaning that they are not solidly bolted to a mounting bracket. Being that there are pistons only on one side, the caliper must be allowed to slide laterally for the pad on the opposite side of the rotor to make contact.

It is imperative that the pins be free of corrosion and be lubricated adequately to allow the caliper to move as required.

 

Thanks Rocklandjag.
I have compressed the piston into the caliper as far as it will go, using the tool designed to do just that out of my Disk Pad tool kit. The bleeding nipple was open and the piston moved very easy to full in, but still the pads would not go over the rotor. Maybe when I try it again, I'll hold my mouth open a different way. ;-))

 

How much to thick are they? You might try grinding the ridge off the edge of the rotor and putting a slight bevel on it.

 

Chuck,

Don't assume that Autozone sold you the correct new pads for your particular car. Our cars were built with variations of brake rotor and pad sizes. Double-check your part number to your car's VIN to ascertain that you do indeed have the correct new pads. Auto parts stores make these mistakes far too frequently. I triple-check the part numbers for both of our Jaguars before I purchase anything for them. Not so much for my 1999 Dodge Ram pickup, but it never breaks anyway....

 

Wow, good points. I was about to venture out into the ice / rain to get into this job when I saw this. Think I'll wait till tomorrow. Chuck I went to Autozone too. I got Duralast part number: DG394. Mind if I ask whether that matches the part you have? But then I have a 98 and you have a 2005. Well let me know what you think. Thanks.

 

Johnken,
The year model may have a lot to do with it, but may be not. With our XK's you never know.
Anyway, The pads I purchased were "Wearever, Platinum Premium Ceramic # PXD 394AH and PNAD394A". Although the letters are different, the numbers are the same.
The second number was under the first. Don't really know what that means. I think they were around 49 bucks.


Jon89
I know what you mean about never assuming anything at parts houses, but I did look at their computer as to what they offered and choose these among that.
I will do as you recommend about checking part number with Vin number and see what comes up--thanks.

 

I have found that some of the auto parts stores' computers are just plain wrong when it comes to matching their part numbers with our cars' year, make, and model. That is why searching with your VIN is crucial with these cars....

 

thanks for everyone's help, job went well. For the record, the Duralast DG394 pads do fit the 1998 convertible XK8.

For the next "First Timer" - If the caliper isn't fitting back smoothly and easily, you probably have one of the pads upside down.

 

Good job. You just saved yourself at least $75 to $100 by doing it yourself. And now you're ready for when the time rolls around to do your rear brake pads....

 

I had the same issue with ceramic pads (on my 2001XK) last month. A quick trip to my bench belt sander (okay, a FEW quick trips) and they were down enough to fit over the rotor. They seem to make a bit more noise than my previous pads. I've got the front apart again for bushings and checked the brakes while I was at it and can see nothing out of the ordinary.