For an '04 XK8. Long-ish, but thorough. Replacing the radiator without evacuating the AC system is all about sequence. The bolts that hold the AC condenser radiator to the coolant radiator are a bear to get to only if you try to remove them too early in the process - I removed them the hard way using a ratcheting box end 8 mmm wrench, but during reassembly I discovered the sequence that makes it easy. Left/right reference for this post is from the front of the car. After you’ve drained the coolant, remove the hood/bonnet. It's easy if you have three people, and it’s probably not very hard with only two (RJ237 does it solo by having pillows and heavy blankets to rest it on/slide it to a pillow on the floor – innovative). Next, remove the 5 screws that hold the top radiator retainer plate. Now remove the radiator hoses. It may be possible to remove the fan shroud first, and if so that may be preferable, but the shroud is easier to remove if you get the hoses off first (consider cutting the right hand one off and replacing it if you can't get to the clamp). Remove the fans and shroud – two electrical connectors on the right side and a 10 mm nut with captive washer on each side, about 6” from the top. The studs for these slide into slots in the radiator plastic from the sides and they’re very apt to get dislodged when removing the shroud assembly – a dab of tape might help. With the hoses off you should have plenty of room to push the shroud assembly back away from the radiator. Pull up to disengage it from the bottom slots, then pull the right side up a bit and push the whole thing left a bit to clear the transmission line on the right, then pull up and move right to clear the AC lines on the left – push-pull, left-right, with some tilting. Retrieve those fan shroud studs – just slide them out toward the radiator ends.


If either is missing, maybe look for it later when everything’s out. Or retrieve with a magnet if you can. Now remove and cap the transmission hoses; be prepared to catch a few ounces of drainage in a clean container – you can put them into the new radiator using a funnel and appropriate plastic hose into the top fitting after the bottom pipe has been re-attached (but it’s just a few ounces, probably doesn’t matter). The radiator is free as a bird now, the only things keeping it from lifting out are the attached AC condenser radiator and the seal plate on the left side. So now you can push the top of the radiators assembly back behind the top crossmember and easily see and get access to the 8 mm bolts, one on each side at the top, that hold the AC condenser to the coolant radiator. There still isn’t a lot of room, so a quarter inch drive ratchet & socket work very nicely.

For the seal plate on the left side, remove two Torx screws from the front, then slide the seal plate out the top. I think it has to be flopped on its side, then pulled out. There’s a clamp on the left side that holds 2 AC hoses together, but it’s not attached to any radiator stuff so ignore it. Now you should be able to pull the radiator out. Installation is, as they say, the reverse of removal, but here are some tips: If the clamp on the right-side radiator connection isn’t a screwdriver-driven worm type, replace it with one of those (much easier to deal with in that location). Make sure the fittings on the replacement radiator are tight. On my ’04 there’s a thin nut at the radiator and another closer to the end of the fitting – that one was loose on both sides on my replacement, and it has to be tight to make everything seal, so check it and snug it up if necessary. And make sure there’s a drain plug installed. And pull all the rubber mounts off the old one and put them on the new one – test the fit of the bottom ones in the frame member and use the orientation that fits best. And be prepared to plug an extra fitting at the top right of some replacement radiators (some Nissens) – short length of appropriate hose, short appropriate bolt, some sealant, a couple of clamps. Fill system with coolant, start engine and test for leaks. Re-install the hood/bonnet. Couplafew hours start to finish, unless you’re stumbling around in the dark like I was and trying to get those stupid condenser bolts out first instead of almost last.

 

Thanks to member Volbrewer for this post with helpful pictures. Project is very doable as long as you have the usual Jag mechanic requirements: small hands and a liking for tight spaces. Actually, very straight forward, once you have the hood off. Only mystery is the black air restriction plate on the right side. Once you have found (!) and removed the securing torx screws from the front of the radiator, probably need to peel off the insulation strip on the outside edge, pivot plate toward the engine 45 - 90 degrees, then rotate upward from vertical to horizontal and extract out the front of the car past the AC condenser. Also as others noted, you can usually slide back the hose clamp from the lower return radiator hose coupling with remote hose clamp pliers, available on eBay/other sites for about $20.

 

Just as a side mention, I definitely don't have the standard jaguar mechanic required small hands, or small body for that matter, but I was able to do mine without discharging the ac too. A little fiddly, but definitely doable