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I have a Xkr 4.0. Started the work to fit the smaller upper pulley that needs some material to be grinded off the SC snout. In the process of disassembling the SC I see oil in the supercharger "inlet" see pic below. Is this oil coming from the crank case via the tiny rubber hose connected to the SC "inlet"?
The part load breather connects to the intake elbow and the supercharger digests all that oil mist.
If you want to prevent this for the next time, you can install a catch can. I added one and it does a pretty good job of keeping the intake clean, you will just have to add draining the can to your oil change regimen.
Yes it is.
An oil catch can would help stop most of that.
Also that oil has passed thru your charge coolers and probably has blocked up the cooling matrix with soft carbon deposits that can be removed by soaking in the appropriate chemical.
I see the ablative rotor coating is just about all gone on those rotors.
Be sure to change the oil in the Nose-piece every 15,000 miles....You can still buy those oil change Kits from Amazon & eBay..That has done a good job for me as it is still throwing-up a bunch of Boost at over 100,000 miles....I just blow it on through with the Big Pulley/Little Pulley set-up....It's not as good as the Whipple-Charger but it sure beats the stock XKR. Also, you can buy a much larger Intercooler Radiator and Water Pump, which helps to keep those little Intercoolers on top of the Engine cooler. I also have a Snow Methanol/Water Injector that keeps the Oil cleaned out so that I don't need a Catch-Can....Recently, Nitrous Express has bought out Snow Performance and moved it to Wichita Falls, TX.. They still have the same basic Packages but now they also offer Nitrous Products in addition.
I've never used any Nitrous products on any of my Cars but I occasionally pour a Bottle of Nitro/Booster in the tank with the Water/Methanol! Now that really is a Thrill Ride...!
Been a while since I touched the SC but now it is time to get the job done. To get the snout off to be able to grind it to fit the smaller upper pulley, do I need to remove the complete SC or can I split it and just remove the front part? I know the job can be done without removing the snout but I prefer to, dont want to throw metal flakes all over the engine bay
Depends whether you can access the bolts below without taking the compete unit out.
If you can watch out for the oil to drain out from that snout.
If you are confident about grinding down the snout in a professional manner with the SC in place cloth/towels placed appropriately will catch the shavings and would be a LOT easier than taking the SC out.
I have had mine out 3-4 times and even tho I have it down pat its still a hassle.
Why do you have to grind the Snout? When I changed my Pulley, I just removed the original one and replaced it with the smaller one....What are you doing? You don't have to do that! Also, you don't have too remove the snout to change the Oil either.....There is a little screw that you remove and suck the old Oil out and pour in the new with the Oil changing Kit...Your putting to much work into the job.....Those rear Bearings will probably last a couple hundred Thousand miles....
It depends on HOW small the upper pulley is. They usually come in 6% smaller or 10% smaller. The 6% won't need any material to be removed from the snout but the 10% smaller will
It depends on HOW small the upper pulley is. They usually come in 6% smaller or 10% smaller. The 6% won't need any material to be removed from the snout but the 10% smaller will
Many posts that state the 10% pulley over spins the SC and therefore is a waste of money.
However I do have the 10% pulley and all I can say is that the mid range of power feels way better and since I am not at the red line that often that is absolutely great for my driving style.
I do have a water/meth injection system as well as an upgraded cooling system which includes extra fans in front of an extra SC radiator along with an upgraded SC pump.
All of that reduces the heat soak.
The best mod however is the LSD that I installed. No point in the extra power if all you do is spin one wheel.
It depends on HOW small the upper pulley is. They usually come in 6% smaller or 10% smaller. The 6% won't need any material to be removed from the snout but the 10% smaller will
Higgins,
Sorry you are having trouble making the Pulley fit....Are you also changing the Crank Pulley? If not, you are leaving most of the Power on the Table.....the Little Pulley is about 30% of the Power that's there...The Big Pulley is where the secret is! While you are doing all this work, why not go all the way? You have unbelievable power hidden under that Hood! Get in there and find it....you will love it!
Jackrab_1's suggestion of the LSD is a good idea but first you have to be able to spin the wheels....I don't have LSD as I'm not a drag-racer...….but I can see where it would probably be useful....but then again it's over $2,000. Bucks or so installed!
Get a Rasp and cut down the Aluminum that is in your way....you shouldn't have to take it out to grind the Nose-Piece down..... I had the same set-up on my 2000 XKR as I have Today, except for the Large Intercooler and Pump Motor and it would really move...Lots of fun!
Billy Clyde
Last edited by bcprice36; Apr 17, 2020 at 10:21 AM.
Reason: Add something
Higgins,
Jackrab_1's suggestion of the LSD is a good idea but first you have to be able to spin the wheels....I don't have LSD as I'm not a drag-racer...….but I can see where it would probably be useful....but then again it's over $1,000. Bucks or so!
Billy Clyde
It was an expensive item and I had to order it from the UK which added to the expense however I did install it myself which saved a bit.
It changed the driving characteristics of my car dramatically on the positive side .
No issues accelerating out into traffic from a side road etc.
There is another thread ongoing right now where people are looking at a "group buy" where a price has been quoted around $1300 I believe which is a steal!
For my car I got one of the last ones, Quaife. that would fit as a direct insert into my diff.
So it has to be a direct fit to make it economical otherwise you are into electrical/mechanical additional mods.
+1 on catch can on the part load breather - it catches a lot. I too have been surprised by the big puddle of the oil in the intake and supercharger inlet, I've read it allegedly might also help to a small extent on knock properties of the mixture - not sure on that one though.
Supercharger bearings seem, like other things, to be random on longevity - mine on the Eaton were destroyed at 70k miles with a 10% lower pulley for some of those.
I'm also a fan of water/meth injection as part of the 'more air, less heat' power recipe.
I have the 4.0 xkr engine and after long considerations I decided to go for the 10% smaller upper pulley. The 4.0 you should not push to hard I understand since not having the forged pistons, oil spray on the under side of the piston crowns and as I understand also valve seats that are vulnerable to excessive heat, compared to the 4.2 Engine. My engine is still in good condition but it has got 130 000 kilometers on it (81k miles) and I don't want to push it to hard. Just like Jackra_1 I think a substantial increase of mid range torque is desirable and what is the most useful in typical driving situations. Later on when this Engine starts to show signs of being worn out I would love to swap it for a 4.2 with more power. When it comes to LSD I am about to ordera Quaife anyday soon! Just needs to get the workshop to accept that it will not be a clutch type lsd, which they normally only work with. I tried to find a clutch type lsd to order but have failed. Seems there are none available anymore so a Quaife it will be. I have one in my Bmw 130i and have really nothing to complain about so it will be fine
Higgins,
I had the full system on my 2000 XKR and had NO problems due to excess Heat! That is one of the things, along with the others I have mentioned that is so great about the Water/Meth Injector system and large Intercooler Radiator and Pump Motor....The Load is cooled and the Engine and S/C are kept clean by the W/I system. As I mentioned, this eliminates the need for the Catch-Can....It actually cleans the Pistons and Valves along with the Ports as it passes through to the Combustion Chambers! I've always put t he Injector sprayer just above the Throttle Body. That way the Load passes through the entire breathing system....Cleans and Cools all the way to the Combustion Chamber. I had this system on my 2000 XKR, my 2003 XKR and now on my 2005 XKR....I've always used the Windshield Washer Bottle for my Mixture supply. The only problem I have ever had was when I placed the old style Pump Motor, which was not water proofed right behind the Grill. Solved that problem with a their new waterproofed Motor!.
If you want more information on this let me know! It works great!
Billy Clyde in Houston
Last edited by bcprice36; Apr 17, 2020 at 07:53 PM.
Got some time to pick up the work on my SC. Have all the 10 bolts off now but difficult to get the snout separated from thr SC body. Got a small gap between them now but don't want to use force. Is there any trick to perform to get the snout off?
Oil inside supercharger inlet
