as the title says, the rear control arms outer bushing, how hard is it to change?
after one shop stripped a lug nut, and overtorqued the rest, and a "jaguar specialist" missed this issue twice i'm coming back to the old adage of "if you want something done right, do it yourself".

it's the outer lower one, the one the alignment bolt goes through (which really pisses me of because the "specialist" actually changed this bolt, and charged for an alignment). i'd think nothing of it, except it has bearings of some sort in there, and it just looks complicated.

is there a good write up for this job somewhere? i'd much rather have the peace of mind of doing it myself at this point, unless someone here has a good recommendation for a ship in the orange county area.

thanks

 

Should be easy. I have not done it without disassembling the entire hub, but I would imagine it'd come out. Jack the rear of the car up, remove wheel. Mark fulcrum bolt for alignment so you know which way it goes. Loosen fulcrum bolt and nut and pull out. In order to get it out you may have to slightly compress the rear shock with another jack, it depends on how tight it is. With no load on it I would imagine it would come out fairly easy. At this point the hub is still connected to the shaft, but you should be able to pivot the entire assembly out and upwards with the fulcrum bolt out. You'll also want to support it as the hub assembly will have the complete brake setup connected and will be heavy. There are washers (spacers) on either end of the bushings, don't lose them. You may need a punch and a hammer to get the hollow shaft out that the bearings sit on. With the hollow tube out you can repack or replace the bearings as needed. Assemble in reverse order and re-torque fulcrum bolt to spec.

Attached are a few pictures of the fulcrum bolt and accompanying bearings. You may want to consider replacing the inner and outer hub bearings at the same time if you'll be in there, though it is considerably more work. I have a write up but have yet to attach pictures since photobucket no longer works on forums.

What makes you think you need to replace those bearings, anyways?

 

Something needs to be done with that bolt because there's about a quarter inch of movement at that bolt when I grab the wheel at 12 and 6 and try to move it. There's no resistance at all.

maybe those bearings have fallen apart, hell they could be missing for all I know, I don't think it would shock me if they were.

If I needed to replace those bearings does anyone know where could I get them from?

 

Try Forum Sponsor S N G Barratt for P/N CAC4610:

SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist

Graham

 

12 - 6 movement may be coming from U-joint wear in the drive shaft. A bit of 12 - 6 movement is normal on older jags with this setup.

Do you have an 3 - 9 movement, this will come from lower bearing wear.

The trickiest part of changing the lower bearing is getting the old outer bearing shells out of the upright, you will need a longish bent chisel to punch out from the other side.

I have not done the job myself but have watched an indi do it on my car, having watched him do it I would have no worries about doing it myself. It took him about an hour or so, that means it would take me 3 hours.

 

As RaceDiagnostics noted about, SOME 6-12 movement is normal on these cars, 3-9 is not. Here's a short video of my right rear wheel bearing that was shot.


There was 3-9 movement which is bad, and there was more 6-12 than is normal. The other rear bearing, which I also replaced, had no movement in either direction. After I replaced both sides, the 3-9 movement was completely gone, and 6-12 had a little movement which matched on both sides (though less than the one in the video).

Do both of your rear wheels have the same amount of 6-12 play, or is one greater than the other?

 

Its unlikely to be the the UJ's as with that amount of play they would be clunking and banging to point of making the car undriveable. Rather than the UJ's, the output bearings on the diff are a common source of play. I've had 2 advisories now for excess 12-6 oclock play and its down to the diff bearing. Been under the car and had the wheel rocked, and the output flange moves back and forth about 2-3mm. Its going to have to wait till its a fail as they are a jaguar bearing, no one else makes them and they are £200+ each

 

here is the video i shot, could it just be the bolt wasn't tightened properly?

if not i'll likely replace the bolt, nut, sleeve, and the bushings, just to be sure.

 

Do I see some slop in the inner race?

As chillyphilly mentioned, there is a spacer at each end of the sleeve that sets the preload on the bearings. If either of those has gone AWOL then that could be the problem. It also looks like the edge of the carrier has been rubbing as it's shiny.

I've attached a doc. taken from 1998 JTIS that shows the layout and bearing removal/replacement procedure.

HTH,
Mike

 

this is suddenly looking like a much more difficult job than i first thought
do i really need to remove the upright from the car to replace these bearings?

guess i do need to take it apart and see if anything is missing first.

 

so i finally got around to taking a closer look, and somehow one of the shims has in fact gone missing. part of me says get a new shim, throw it on and be happy, and the other part says there's no way the bearing is still good after being slammed around, and the sleeve looks a little worse for wear.

for peace of mind i'd like bearings and sleeve replaced, but the issue then is i don't know what size shims i'll need.

is it a strong likely hood that the 3.905 is the only size i'll need?

i'll need a 3.905 just to check the preload in the first place, so i think i'll order that and at least be happy i can drive the thing again until i figure out the rest.

 

JTIS states that both shims should be the same thickness, so you could take a measurement from the remaining one, although if you are intending to change the bearings you'll need a pair of 3.905s anyway. IMO anything is better than leaving it without.

I wonder if it's possible to get a puller behind the bearing outer race? Save a lot of dismantling.

 

The outer race only sits a mm or so proud of the "tube", the indie I watched doing it knocked it out from the other side with a bent chisel. but it did take some time and involved sharpening the chisel a couple of times.