Rear Shocks Replaced....Done.
#1
03-05-2017, 03:58 PM
Rear Shocks Replaced....Done.
After doing the front shocks couple of months ago thought I should put the Bilstien B4's on the rear as well.
After reading several threads on the task, did not seem to be all that difficult. I did the Motorman's method and removed the four bolts from the "stiff'ner" (as I call it) but still was not quite enough room to get the shock/spring out. So I went ahead and removed the hub from the lower control arm so I could push the lower control arm down further and that took care of it. Did not have to use spring compressors at all.
Replaced the upper spring cushions although they did not need to be; had purchased them so put them on.
The one good thing about separating the hub from the lower control arm is that I was able to get shots of grease into all four U joints. The bad thing is that I did not take the time to mark the setting so will be needing an alignment next week...oh well.....
I did this in my garage with jack stands, so it is a do'able task as long as you have an impact wrench, either air or electric. All bolts came out just fine, no rust problems. I think it took me 5 - 6 hours from start to finish.
Although I did not measure the ride height before, I know the front came up with the new shocks and it feels like the rear did as well.
Oh one hint to pass along to anyone doing this; tie the rear sway bar up so the end links are above the lower control arms. Why?...because with the shocks/springs and hub back in place, the sway bar ends will not pass the lower control arms. I forgot to do this and had to take the sway bar almost off in order to get the end links above the lower control arms. That was one of the more difficult part of this task....that upper bar bushing clamp is rather difficult to get to.
Taking the XK8 on a long trip next weekend, looking forward to see how the ride has changed.
All for now.
After reading several threads on the task, did not seem to be all that difficult. I did the Motorman's method and removed the four bolts from the "stiff'ner" (as I call it) but still was not quite enough room to get the shock/spring out. So I went ahead and removed the hub from the lower control arm so I could push the lower control arm down further and that took care of it. Did not have to use spring compressors at all.
Replaced the upper spring cushions although they did not need to be; had purchased them so put them on.
The one good thing about separating the hub from the lower control arm is that I was able to get shots of grease into all four U joints. The bad thing is that I did not take the time to mark the setting so will be needing an alignment next week...oh well.....
I did this in my garage with jack stands, so it is a do'able task as long as you have an impact wrench, either air or electric. All bolts came out just fine, no rust problems. I think it took me 5 - 6 hours from start to finish.
Although I did not measure the ride height before, I know the front came up with the new shocks and it feels like the rear did as well.
Oh one hint to pass along to anyone doing this; tie the rear sway bar up so the end links are above the lower control arms. Why?...because with the shocks/springs and hub back in place, the sway bar ends will not pass the lower control arms. I forgot to do this and had to take the sway bar almost off in order to get the end links above the lower control arms. That was one of the more difficult part of this task....that upper bar bushing clamp is rather difficult to get to.
Taking the XK8 on a long trip next weekend, looking forward to see how the ride has changed.
All for now.
Last edited by Lannyl81; 03-06-2017 at 07:59 AM.
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#2
03-06-2017, 06:49 AM
Senior Member
#3
03-06-2017, 07:38 AM
Veteran Member
#4
03-06-2017, 08:07 AM
Couple of additional comments:
1. the rear calipers must be removed, so support for these is needed.
2. when the hub is separated from the lower control arm, need a way to support as well. I used a block of wood. Avoid putting fingers into top of hub when moving it around, very easy to get fingers pinched by driveshaft/Ujoint.
3. have a pad for your knees....going to be spending a lot of time on them.
1. the rear calipers must be removed, so support for these is needed.
2. when the hub is separated from the lower control arm, need a way to support as well. I used a block of wood. Avoid putting fingers into top of hub when moving it around, very easy to get fingers pinched by driveshaft/Ujoint.
3. have a pad for your knees....going to be spending a lot of time on them.
#5
03-06-2017, 09:07 AM
Senior Member
#7
03-07-2017, 07:11 AM
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#9
03-09-2017, 08:01 AM
I know that after replacing the front upper control bushings with poly, new shocks and mounts, resurfacing the rotors...what a huge difference in ride/steering! Made driving the XK8 enjoyable again.
I suspect the new rear shocks will not change the ride near as much but I will find-out soon. Of course the trunk will be loaded with "trip stuff" so difference will be masked.
I know when I changed the shocks on my S10 Blazer 4dr 4wd it was like driving a different vehicle; stiffer ride yes, but so much better over bumps, turns, curves, etc, the ride/control was such an improvement.
Looking forward to the drive on Saturday.
I suspect the new rear shocks will not change the ride near as much but I will find-out soon. Of course the trunk will be loaded with "trip stuff" so difference will be masked.
I know when I changed the shocks on my S10 Blazer 4dr 4wd it was like driving a different vehicle; stiffer ride yes, but so much better over bumps, turns, curves, etc, the ride/control was such an improvement.
Looking forward to the drive on Saturday.
#10
03-09-2017, 10:51 AM
UPDATE: had the alignment done, drives really nice now. Feel is firmer now, more like a sport car feel now instead of a squishy/soft ride.
Alignment did turn-up known issues though:
1) Front Caster is still out - have the original shims, guess needs to adjust the position of them.
2) Right rear camber and toe are out - needs a thicker shim between differential and driveshaft and either lower control is bent or perhaps just needs bushings replaced as adjustment is at max setting.
Tech set rear Thrust Angle to 0.00° so will drive fine, but right rear tire will have uneven tire wear.
All for now.
Alignment did turn-up known issues though:
1) Front Caster is still out - have the original shims, guess needs to adjust the position of them.
2) Right rear camber and toe are out - needs a thicker shim between differential and driveshaft and either lower control is bent or perhaps just needs bushings replaced as adjustment is at max setting.
Tech set rear Thrust Angle to 0.00° so will drive fine, but right rear tire will have uneven tire wear.
All for now.
Last edited by Lannyl81; 03-09-2017 at 11:08 AM.
#11
03-14-2017, 07:44 PM
FINAL UPDATE:
Back from my 800 mile trip; ride was great however.....there is always a "however" right....anyways the current alignment settings are not going to work, car drifts to the left no matter which side of the road crown I am on and the steering wheel is a bit to the right in order to go straight down the road.
So back to the alignment shop I go. Only thing I can think of is the right rear toe being set out of spec is causing the problem, so that will be the first thing to do..which of course will change the thrust angle.
Back from my 800 mile trip; ride was great however.....there is always a "however" right....anyways the current alignment settings are not going to work, car drifts to the left no matter which side of the road crown I am on and the steering wheel is a bit to the right in order to go straight down the road.
So back to the alignment shop I go. Only thing I can think of is the right rear toe being set out of spec is causing the problem, so that will be the first thing to do..which of course will change the thrust angle.