Rear wheel bearing install
#21
03-23-2018, 10:05 AM
Ok let's break this down. First your questions about ebrake:
Did you unhook the cable from the equalizer, take off the c clip and pull the cable out of its routing hole?
Are you now trying to disassemble the e brake hardware on the hub?
1) unhook the compression springs, 1 on each side. Press down and turn 45 degrees. Let pressure off it releases.
2) remove adjustment mechanism.
3) unhook stretched springs top and bottom. Remove shoes.
4) now the cable attachments expanding mechanism at bottom is free. Take a photo of how this thing looks before you remove it. Its hard to remember.
As I recall the cable is now free.
Bob if I missed your question let me know.
Here's the headache now - you've got a dust cover in the way of fully supporting the hub carrier. Getting to the screws holding this on is tough, the hub overhangs them.
Once you get here any auto parts store with a press can press the hub out for a few bucks.
It's late, I'm coming up empty trying to recall where I supported the hub carrier with the dust shield still on.
Yes the weight of the hammer has significant effect. I first tried to drift the bearings out with a regular hammer (waste of time). Changed to a 3+ pounder and was easy.
From what I saw on my car, I'm betting your bearings are seized. Without the press to use at this point, I better leave this to smarter folks to suggest better ways to hammer it out.
While I suggested it earlier, I'm beginning to wonder if you'd have better luck removing the hub assembly from the pivot joint.
John
Did you unhook the cable from the equalizer, take off the c clip and pull the cable out of its routing hole?
Are you now trying to disassemble the e brake hardware on the hub?
1) unhook the compression springs, 1 on each side. Press down and turn 45 degrees. Let pressure off it releases.
2) remove adjustment mechanism.
3) unhook stretched springs top and bottom. Remove shoes.
4) now the cable attachments expanding mechanism at bottom is free. Take a photo of how this thing looks before you remove it. Its hard to remember.
As I recall the cable is now free.
Bob if I missed your question let me know.
Here's the headache now - you've got a dust cover in the way of fully supporting the hub carrier. Getting to the screws holding this on is tough, the hub overhangs them.
Once you get here any auto parts store with a press can press the hub out for a few bucks.
It's late, I'm coming up empty trying to recall where I supported the hub carrier with the dust shield still on.
Yes the weight of the hammer has significant effect. I first tried to drift the bearings out with a regular hammer (waste of time). Changed to a 3+ pounder and was easy.
From what I saw on my car, I'm betting your bearings are seized. Without the press to use at this point, I better leave this to smarter folks to suggest better ways to hammer it out.
While I suggested it earlier, I'm beginning to wonder if you'd have better luck removing the hub assembly from the pivot joint.
John
yeah at this point I can't support the hub too much (as seen on my pics in previous post) with the e-brake shoes still on...however I don't think I can remove the ebrake shoes with the hub still blocking a lot of the clips and bolt behind it.
At this point I am thinking of just getting a 20th Harbor Freight press but I wasn't sure how to decouple the e-brake wire...I took of the c-clips, the Y hardware...so at this point the e-brake wires are very loose but I can't seem to figure out the best way to de-couple the e-brake wires(see pic)
#22
03-24-2018, 08:27 AM
Veteran Member
Ok I can help here.
Wet it with wd40 or your preference.
Get a small flat blade screwdriver. You will use this to pry the locking tab. It is pressed into the coupler between the ends of the 2 wires preventing them from moving toward the center of that coupler.
Pry it back towards the outside.
Now the lead ferrule on the end of the wire can move towards the tapered center of the coupler (coupler tapers small to large as you move from edge towards center)
I have used a larger screwdriver to insert and twist which enlarged the coupler loosening it's grip.
Use a pliers in each hand. One on cable, other on coupler. Twist pliers in opposite rotations to loosen the dried crud and whatever is binding ferrule from moving.
Press pliers together to move wire towards center to remove.
John
Wet it with wd40 or your preference.
Get a small flat blade screwdriver. You will use this to pry the locking tab. It is pressed into the coupler between the ends of the 2 wires preventing them from moving toward the center of that coupler.
Pry it back towards the outside.
Now the lead ferrule on the end of the wire can move towards the tapered center of the coupler (coupler tapers small to large as you move from edge towards center)
I have used a larger screwdriver to insert and twist which enlarged the coupler loosening it's grip.
Use a pliers in each hand. One on cable, other on coupler. Twist pliers in opposite rotations to loosen the dried crud and whatever is binding ferrule from moving.
Press pliers together to move wire towards center to remove.
John
#23
03-24-2018, 10:25 AM
Ok I can help here.
Wet it with wd40 or your preference.
Get a small flat blade screwdriver. You will use this to pry the locking tab. It is pressed into the coupler between the ends of the 2 wires preventing them from moving toward the center of that coupler.
Pry it back towards the outside.
Now the lead ferrule on the end of the wire can move towards the tapered center of the coupler (coupler tapers small to large as you move from edge towards center)
I have used a larger screwdriver to insert and twist which enlarged the coupler loosening it's grip.
Use a pliers in each hand. One on cable, other on coupler. Twist pliers in opposite rotations to loosen the dried crud and whatever is binding ferrule from moving.
Press pliers together to move wire towards center to remove.
John
Wet it with wd40 or your preference.
Get a small flat blade screwdriver. You will use this to pry the locking tab. It is pressed into the coupler between the ends of the 2 wires preventing them from moving toward the center of that coupler.
Pry it back towards the outside.
Now the lead ferrule on the end of the wire can move towards the tapered center of the coupler (coupler tapers small to large as you move from edge towards center)
I have used a larger screwdriver to insert and twist which enlarged the coupler loosening it's grip.
Use a pliers in each hand. One on cable, other on coupler. Twist pliers in opposite rotations to loosen the dried crud and whatever is binding ferrule from moving.
Press pliers together to move wire towards center to remove.
John
I just purchased the 20ton press ... time to get those hub and bearings out!!!! I feel like celebrating here hahaha!!
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Johnken (05-01-2019)
#24
03-25-2018, 08:59 AM
Veteran Member
#25
03-27-2018, 09:36 AM
Veteran Member
Nice job!
Some suggestions:
1. I've found rebuilt hubs for not much more $ than the parts alone. It really speeds things up a bit. I actually have one waiting to install on the bench right now.
2. Before jacking the car up, pop out the little center cap from the wheel. With the parking brake set and the wheels chocked, slip the socket through the hole to loosen the hub nut. This will allow you to put a "long" extention on your breaker bar and easily get the hub nut loosened. Leave it in place until the wheel is off the ground and you're ready to pull the hub assembly off the axle.
3. Also loosen the caliper bolts before loosening the hub. It's just easier to deal with the torque required. And obviously, torque the calipers back on after the hub is installed.
4. When you're ready to torque the hub nut, tighten it as much as you can during assembly, then put the wheel back on. Lower the car until the tire is nicely in contact with the ground, but not fully loaded. Now get a bathroom scale. Once again, slip your socket through the hole in the wheel. Measure the length of your extended breaker bar and divide that into the required torque to find out how much force needs to be applied. The required hub nut torque is over 300 ft-lbs, so if your breaker bar is now 4' long, stand on your scale and lift the end of the braker bar until the scale reads about 80 lbs over your normal weight. And you're done.
5. My parking brake shoes were glazed and could barely hold the car in place with the tranny in drive. They are a bit of a pain to get to and they can be found fairly cheap. If you're going to do a hub job, go ahead and replace those shoes as well.
Some suggestions:
1. I've found rebuilt hubs for not much more $ than the parts alone. It really speeds things up a bit. I actually have one waiting to install on the bench right now.
2. Before jacking the car up, pop out the little center cap from the wheel. With the parking brake set and the wheels chocked, slip the socket through the hole to loosen the hub nut. This will allow you to put a "long" extention on your breaker bar and easily get the hub nut loosened. Leave it in place until the wheel is off the ground and you're ready to pull the hub assembly off the axle.
3. Also loosen the caliper bolts before loosening the hub. It's just easier to deal with the torque required. And obviously, torque the calipers back on after the hub is installed.
4. When you're ready to torque the hub nut, tighten it as much as you can during assembly, then put the wheel back on. Lower the car until the tire is nicely in contact with the ground, but not fully loaded. Now get a bathroom scale. Once again, slip your socket through the hole in the wheel. Measure the length of your extended breaker bar and divide that into the required torque to find out how much force needs to be applied. The required hub nut torque is over 300 ft-lbs, so if your breaker bar is now 4' long, stand on your scale and lift the end of the braker bar until the scale reads about 80 lbs over your normal weight. And you're done.
5. My parking brake shoes were glazed and could barely hold the car in place with the tranny in drive. They are a bit of a pain to get to and they can be found fairly cheap. If you're going to do a hub job, go ahead and replace those shoes as well.
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Johnken (03-27-2018)
#26
03-27-2018, 04:43 PM
Nice job!
Some suggestions:
1. I've found rebuilt hubs for not much more $ than the parts alone. It really speeds things up a bit. I actually have one waiting to install on the bench right now.
2. Before jacking the car up, pop out the little center cap from the wheel. With the parking brake set and the wheels chocked, slip the socket through the hole to loosen the hub nut. This will allow you to put a "long" extention on your breaker bar and easily get the hub nut loosened. Leave it in place until the wheel is off the ground and you're ready to pull the hub assembly off the axle.
3. Also loosen the caliper bolts before loosening the hub. It's just easier to deal with the torque required. And obviously, torque the calipers back on after the hub is installed.
4. When you're ready to torque the hub nut, tighten it as much as you can during assembly, then put the wheel back on. Lower the car until the tire is nicely in contact with the ground, but not fully loaded. Now get a bathroom scale. Once again, slip your socket through the hole in the wheel. Measure the length of your extended breaker bar and divide that into the required torque to find out how much force needs to be applied. The required hub nut torque is over 300 ft-lbs, so if your breaker bar is now 4' long, stand on your scale and lift the end of the braker bar until the scale reads about 80 lbs over your normal weight. And you're done.
5. My parking brake shoes were glazed and could barely hold the car in place with the tranny in drive. They are a bit of a pain to get to and they can be found fairly cheap. If you're going to do a hub job, go ahead and replace those shoes as well.
Some suggestions:
1. I've found rebuilt hubs for not much more $ than the parts alone. It really speeds things up a bit. I actually have one waiting to install on the bench right now.
2. Before jacking the car up, pop out the little center cap from the wheel. With the parking brake set and the wheels chocked, slip the socket through the hole to loosen the hub nut. This will allow you to put a "long" extention on your breaker bar and easily get the hub nut loosened. Leave it in place until the wheel is off the ground and you're ready to pull the hub assembly off the axle.
3. Also loosen the caliper bolts before loosening the hub. It's just easier to deal with the torque required. And obviously, torque the calipers back on after the hub is installed.
4. When you're ready to torque the hub nut, tighten it as much as you can during assembly, then put the wheel back on. Lower the car until the tire is nicely in contact with the ground, but not fully loaded. Now get a bathroom scale. Once again, slip your socket through the hole in the wheel. Measure the length of your extended breaker bar and divide that into the required torque to find out how much force needs to be applied. The required hub nut torque is over 300 ft-lbs, so if your breaker bar is now 4' long, stand on your scale and lift the end of the braker bar until the scale reads about 80 lbs over your normal weight. And you're done.
5. My parking brake shoes were glazed and could barely hold the car in place with the tranny in drive. They are a bit of a pain to get to and they can be found fairly cheap. If you're going to do a hub job, go ahead and replace those shoes as well.
I am soaking it with Pb Blaster now and hope to hammer it out again...the funny thing is I found that the bearings themselves looks loose inside.
#27
03-28-2018, 10:08 AM
Veteran Member
HI Zidjan,
I'm not surprised that your bearings seem loose within the carrier. When I did my first hub, the whole thing just fell apart all over the floor after I removed it from the car. Even if I hadn't planned to replace it with a rebuilt assembly, I would not have attempted to replace those bearings for fear of them not seating tightly enough in the carrier.
Good luck getting the hub out - I know: that dust shield can really get in the way of the work. You "might" be able to run two parallel pieces of bar stock between the hub and the dust shield. Then prop-up the bars with other bits of steel. That might be a strong enough set-up to allow you to use the press. (maybe).
I'm not surprised that your bearings seem loose within the carrier. When I did my first hub, the whole thing just fell apart all over the floor after I removed it from the car. Even if I hadn't planned to replace it with a rebuilt assembly, I would not have attempted to replace those bearings for fear of them not seating tightly enough in the carrier.
Good luck getting the hub out - I know: that dust shield can really get in the way of the work. You "might" be able to run two parallel pieces of bar stock between the hub and the dust shield. Then prop-up the bars with other bits of steel. That might be a strong enough set-up to allow you to use the press. (maybe).
#28
03-28-2018, 10:55 AM
HI Zidjan,
Good luck getting the hub out - I know: that dust shield can really get in the way of the work. You "might" be able to run two parallel pieces of bar stock between the hub and the dust shield. Then prop-up the bars with other bits of steel. That might be a strong enough set-up to allow you to use the press. (maybe).
Good luck getting the hub out - I know: that dust shield can really get in the way of the work. You "might" be able to run two parallel pieces of bar stock between the hub and the dust shield. Then prop-up the bars with other bits of steel. That might be a strong enough set-up to allow you to use the press. (maybe).
#29
03-28-2018, 12:11 PM
Veteran Member
I could probably post a couple of pictures, but maybe not necessary.
I did the following and the only "special tools" required are a hacksaw or angle grinder with a cutting wheel.
Buy a length of the largest threaded rod you can find and half a dozen nuts.
Cut two short lengths - I could measure but we're talking 3 inches (ish) so it *just" fits between the hub and the hub carrier - one each side although I found just one did the job.
Then - put a nut on each end of the two "studs" and use a spanner to "wind out" the two nuts. That will get you about half an inch or so. Then - wind the nuts back - put a spacer (another nut) in the gap you just created and do the same again.
I did the following and the only "special tools" required are a hacksaw or angle grinder with a cutting wheel.
Buy a length of the largest threaded rod you can find and half a dozen nuts.
Cut two short lengths - I could measure but we're talking 3 inches (ish) so it *just" fits between the hub and the hub carrier - one each side although I found just one did the job.
Then - put a nut on each end of the two "studs" and use a spanner to "wind out" the two nuts. That will get you about half an inch or so. Then - wind the nuts back - put a spacer (another nut) in the gap you just created and do the same again.
Last edited by DevonDavid; 03-28-2018 at 12:23 PM.
#30
03-28-2018, 12:47 PM
Veteran Member
David, you always have great ideas, I want to file this one away for the future.
Unfortunately I have to admit I'm not quite grasping your idea here. I get lost after you put 2 3 inch threaded rods under hub between bottom of hub and top of the darn dust shield.
Lord knows I get as frustrated by that darn dust shield as anyone else does!
This is probably obvious, but would you mind saying more?
David, What is the purpose of the threaded rods:
Does the rod mount parellel to the hub surface or is it vertical (parallel to the axle space? This just occurred to me, didn't remember there s enough space for this though.
Give a push point for the press?
Wedge the hub out?
Other?
Thanks mate I look forward to connecting the dots.
John
Unfortunately I have to admit I'm not quite grasping your idea here. I get lost after you put 2 3 inch threaded rods under hub between bottom of hub and top of the darn dust shield.
Lord knows I get as frustrated by that darn dust shield as anyone else does!
This is probably obvious, but would you mind saying more?
David, What is the purpose of the threaded rods:
Does the rod mount parellel to the hub surface or is it vertical (parallel to the axle space? This just occurred to me, didn't remember there s enough space for this though.
Give a push point for the press?
Wedge the hub out?
Other?
Thanks mate I look forward to connecting the dots.
John
Last edited by Johnken; 03-28-2018 at 12:50 PM.
#31
03-28-2018, 12:58 PM
Veteran Member
I wish I took photos. I really think there are mounting points to press the hub out. Thinking back, I had access to 2x4 lumber; 2x6; 4x4; and 4x4 with a 4 inch wide 2 inch deep notch cut into it.
As I recall the chosen left right support points are at different levels, this selection of wood plus the 2 iron blocks that came with your press allowed me to press it out.
Just hoping this perspective helps you.
John
As I recall the chosen left right support points are at different levels, this selection of wood plus the 2 iron blocks that came with your press allowed me to press it out.
Just hoping this perspective helps you.
John
Last edited by Johnken; 03-28-2018 at 04:22 PM. Reason: .battling the friggin auto correct
#32
03-28-2018, 01:10 PM
Veteran Member
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zidjan (04-02-2018)
#33
03-28-2018, 02:59 PM
Veteran Member
This isn't my hub - I just "borrowed" this photo from t'interweb. Will try and take some of my own hub tomorrow but ........................ if you look where I have put the arrow :
you can put the short length of threaded rod in that gap with a nut on each end.
Then - if you grip the rod with a grip-wrench and then "undo" the nuts, there's a considerable force that will push the hub away from the carrier until the nut reaches the end of the thread. Do both nuts, and you have pushed the hub out by about half an inch.
Thread the nuts back on the rod, put two more nuts in as spacers in the gap you just created, and repeat the process.
That's another half inch.
No press anywhere in sight. No hammer within a mile. Just a spanner that fits those nuts !!
Does that make sense ?
If it makes sense financially, I buy an "old" part from a breaker / parter-out and refurbish it myself. That way, if it all goes t*ts-up, I can still get my car to a proper mechanic !!
This is the state of the old one I bought, so as you can see, we're not talking factory-fresh A1* condition here.
you can put the short length of threaded rod in that gap with a nut on each end.
Then - if you grip the rod with a grip-wrench and then "undo" the nuts, there's a considerable force that will push the hub away from the carrier until the nut reaches the end of the thread. Do both nuts, and you have pushed the hub out by about half an inch.
Thread the nuts back on the rod, put two more nuts in as spacers in the gap you just created, and repeat the process.
That's another half inch.
No press anywhere in sight. No hammer within a mile. Just a spanner that fits those nuts !!
Does that make sense ?
If it makes sense financially, I buy an "old" part from a breaker / parter-out and refurbish it myself. That way, if it all goes t*ts-up, I can still get my car to a proper mechanic !!
This is the state of the old one I bought, so as you can see, we're not talking factory-fresh A1* condition here.
Last edited by DevonDavid; 03-28-2018 at 03:10 PM.
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Johnken (03-28-2018)
#34
03-28-2018, 04:20 PM
Veteran Member
#35
03-29-2018, 09:54 AM
I could probably post a couple of pictures, but maybe not necessary.
I did the following and the only "special tools" required are a hacksaw or angle grinder with a cutting wheel.
Buy a length of the largest threaded rod you can find and half a dozen nuts.
Cut two short lengths - I could measure but we're talking 3 inches (ish) so it *just" fits between the hub and the hub carrier - one each side although I found just one did the job.
Then - put a nut on each end of the two "studs" and use a spanner to "wind out" the two nuts. That will get you about half an inch or so. Then - wind the nuts back - put a spacer (another nut) in the gap you just created and do the same again.
I did the following and the only "special tools" required are a hacksaw or angle grinder with a cutting wheel.
Buy a length of the largest threaded rod you can find and half a dozen nuts.
Cut two short lengths - I could measure but we're talking 3 inches (ish) so it *just" fits between the hub and the hub carrier - one each side although I found just one did the job.
Then - put a nut on each end of the two "studs" and use a spanner to "wind out" the two nuts. That will get you about half an inch or so. Then - wind the nuts back - put a spacer (another nut) in the gap you just created and do the same again.
I saw your posts but I still can't picture how it would work...
So you use a threaded bolt with the nut at each end....how do you insert that in between the hub and carrrier? and wouldn't the gap can't be longer than the length of the bolt??
Edit: ooh was the idea is to create a jack within that hub?
Edit: I just looked at Chilly's pic again..Looks like a trip to Home Depot and some construction work is warranted.
Thanks all for the ideas... I am going to try them one by one...
I will try to make a video on the other side because I believe all Jaguarian will benefit from this
Last edited by zidjan; 03-29-2018 at 10:06 AM.
#36
03-29-2018, 10:25 AM
Veteran Member
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zidjan (03-29-2018)
#37
03-30-2018, 05:06 AM
Veteran Member
In that first photograph, there's a Torx socket. Replace that with a length of threaded rod EXACTLY the correct length to fit that gap. Try to do one on each side - pretty much opposite each other.
Then - put two nuts on each bit of rod somewhere in the middle.
With a spanner, unwind the nuts so they start to go over the end of the rod.
That will exert a considerable force which, in my case, got things moving.
You will probably have to grip the centre of the rod with a "mole wrench" (clamp wrench) to prevent it turning with the nut.
Obviously, you can only get it to move the length of the two nuts on that first try, but if you wind the nuts back, use a couple more as spacers in the gap you just created, then go for it once again, it should work.
Yes - you are using the rod as a sort of "jack" to push the hub and the hub-carrier away from each other.
Then - put two nuts on each bit of rod somewhere in the middle.
With a spanner, unwind the nuts so they start to go over the end of the rod.
That will exert a considerable force which, in my case, got things moving.
You will probably have to grip the centre of the rod with a "mole wrench" (clamp wrench) to prevent it turning with the nut.
Obviously, you can only get it to move the length of the two nuts on that first try, but if you wind the nuts back, use a couple more as spacers in the gap you just created, then go for it once again, it should work.
Yes - you are using the rod as a sort of "jack" to push the hub and the hub-carrier away from each other.
Last edited by DevonDavid; 03-30-2018 at 05:08 AM.
#38
04-02-2018, 10:04 AM
Hey Guys,
Just want to update my experience. I finally was able to get the hub out and the loose bearings also fell down the floor....so since I wasn't able to see it while they're was attached, I can't be sure what goes first and last and what do I need to watch out for.
Also instead of c clip mine comes with this rubber like seal...which I partially destroyed...do you think this is usable? or order a new one?
Just want to update my experience. I finally was able to get the hub out and the loose bearings also fell down the floor....so since I wasn't able to see it while they're was attached, I can't be sure what goes first and last and what do I need to watch out for.
Also instead of c clip mine comes with this rubber like seal...which I partially destroyed...do you think this is usable? or order a new one?
#39
04-02-2018, 11:43 AM
Veteran Member
In you first photograph, you have half of each of the two bearings, plus the large spacer and the small spacer. This is important as it sets the endfloat for the hub assembly. There's a post from one of the "proper" Jaguar technical gurus that states that as long as the same spacer is replaced in the same hub/hub carrier assembly, the endfloat will remain correct. No problem if you're just doing one side, but if you're doing both sides, keep the bits for each side together and don't mix them up.
If you get a new rear bearing kit (Jaguar JLM1708) - you will get new rubber seals.
But - you now have to get the other half of each bearing out of the hub carrier.
If you look inside the hub carrier, you'll see a slot on each side wide enough to get a punch or drift against the back of the outer bearing. A few sharp hits and they will come out fairly easily.
The two bearings are slightly different sizes so you can't mix them up.
Cut a slot in the outer part of each of the old ones, and use this to push in the NEW outer part. (a length of threaded rod and some big metal plates will help here).
(The slot is so it doesn't get jammed in there which is what you DON'T want to happen !!)
Then - the order is rubber seal, bearing, big spacer, small spacer, second bearing, second seal.
I can't post any photographs tonight as I'm just about to go out, but I have my rear bearings in bits at the moment, so will take some pretty pictures tomorrow.
If you get a new rear bearing kit (Jaguar JLM1708) - you will get new rubber seals.
But - you now have to get the other half of each bearing out of the hub carrier.
If you look inside the hub carrier, you'll see a slot on each side wide enough to get a punch or drift against the back of the outer bearing. A few sharp hits and they will come out fairly easily.
The two bearings are slightly different sizes so you can't mix them up.
Cut a slot in the outer part of each of the old ones, and use this to push in the NEW outer part. (a length of threaded rod and some big metal plates will help here).
(The slot is so it doesn't get jammed in there which is what you DON'T want to happen !!)
Then - the order is rubber seal, bearing, big spacer, small spacer, second bearing, second seal.
I can't post any photographs tonight as I'm just about to go out, but I have my rear bearings in bits at the moment, so will take some pretty pictures tomorrow.
Last edited by DevonDavid; 04-02-2018 at 11:46 AM.
#40
04-02-2018, 12:42 PM
In you first photograph, you have half of each of the two bearings, plus the large spacer and the small spacer. This is important as it sets the endfloat for the hub assembly. There's a post from one of the "proper" Jaguar technical gurus that states that as long as the same spacer is replaced in the same hub/hub carrier assembly, the endfloat will remain correct. No problem if you're just doing one side, but if you're doing both sides, keep the bits for each side together and don't mix them up.
If you get a new rear bearing kit (Jaguar JLM1708) - you will get new rubber seals.
But - you now have to get the other half of each bearing out of the hub carrier.
If you look inside the hub carrier, you'll see a slot on each side wide enough to get a punch or drift against the back of the outer bearing. A few sharp hits and they will come out fairly easily.
The two bearings are slightly different sizes so you can't mix them up.
Cut a slot in the outer part of each of the old ones, and use this to push in the NEW outer part. (a length of threaded rod and some big metal plates will help here).
(The slot is so it doesn't get jammed in there which is what you DON'T want to happen !!)
Then - the order is rubber seal, bearing, big spacer, small spacer, second bearing, second seal.
I can't post any photographs tonight as I'm just about to go out, but I have my rear bearings in bits at the moment, so will take some pretty pictures tomorrow.
If you get a new rear bearing kit (Jaguar JLM1708) - you will get new rubber seals.
But - you now have to get the other half of each bearing out of the hub carrier.
If you look inside the hub carrier, you'll see a slot on each side wide enough to get a punch or drift against the back of the outer bearing. A few sharp hits and they will come out fairly easily.
The two bearings are slightly different sizes so you can't mix them up.
Cut a slot in the outer part of each of the old ones, and use this to push in the NEW outer part. (a length of threaded rod and some big metal plates will help here).
(The slot is so it doesn't get jammed in there which is what you DON'T want to happen !!)
Then - the order is rubber seal, bearing, big spacer, small spacer, second bearing, second seal.
I can't post any photographs tonight as I'm just about to go out, but I have my rear bearings in bits at the moment, so will take some pretty pictures tomorrow.