Here is another link to a good set of how to.
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...lacement-2.pdf


Just had to do mine last week. You can get a new regulator less the window for about $240. Check Gaudin Jags in Las Vegas.
Direct JPLV Porsche Parts.com


Job is a little tricky and hard to squeeze the window out but just take note of what needs loosening to get it out.


The one that can out had the clip that raises/lowers glass broken and the cables all mangled. Don't know which happen first but I think it was the clip. Wife heard a snap and the window fell she said.

 

I sent my regulator to a shop in FL that rebuilds all varieties of different regulators. Came back with some mods that address the cable coming off the plastic rollers. They have a lifetime guarantee to the original purchaser. Cost me $180 on Ebay, on sale, normally $225. Fast turn-around.

Cheers, Frank

 

Frank - What was the name & location of the Florida shop that you used?


Thanks!
Chris

 

Hey Chris;
The outfit is called: WINDOW MOTOR WORLD REBUILD SERVICE
------------------------138 PALM COAST PARKWAY NE
------------------------#140
------------------------PALM COAST, FL. 32137
Phone-800-252-2649
Nice Folks, please tell them, if you use their service, that frank murtagh from Mesa AZ recommended them. Cheers, Frank

 

I just noticed your 2 wheel ride, nice machine. Mine is an Aprilia Tuono Factory 998 V-Twin (2006). And a few more, lol. Been involved with moto's since I was 10. Still have 90% of the bikes I've owned since 1961. Cheers, Frank

 

ive owned my 1999 xk8 for 5yrs. it had 37k on it when I bought it. within the first 6mo, the left rear 1/4window stopped working properly. bought one from a place in Brooklyn, NY that repairs them, for $249, but it DID NOT HAVE THE 'FIX', that bridge piece that spans the 'bend/curved trough' so I had a friend spot weld a 1/4inx 3/4in piece on there and it still works well.


the right rear 1/4win went one yr later and found a new one on ebay that same day for $350, free shipping. local shop down the street does that work for $275. I did the first one myself using the pictoral in this forum as a guide and it went ok, about 5hrs from start to finish. had the shop do it the last time as my age was holding me up and didn't object to paying the other guys to do it.


it pays to always raise or lower the top, which raises or lowers the 1/4's, at a dead stop and not on the move, permitted up to a few mph. moving, it creates more opportunity for that cable to 'jiggle' off one of the pulleys.

 

you would need to get the tension on the cable just right and im not sure how that is done. I guess once you do it, it might not be that bad. you can buy 'kits' to repair cable regulators, which would be the least expensive way to go if you know how to wind the cable & get the tension right.

 

Hello All - I recently purchased my first Jaguar - a 2001 XK8. The rear quarter window is acting up and needs some love. I really appreciate the effort D. Jensen put into providing a pdf of his method to remove and replace the motor. Thanks!

 

The pass side rear regulator went out. First a Pop! Then it went down once and that was it. However, I could manually pull it up to 90%. After removal and bench breakdown it was apparent that the motor's black grooved pulley had failed. There is a raised rim on the edge of the grooved pulley and about 20% of it had cracked off taking the first set of grooves with it. It looked like someone had taken a pair of pliers and nibbled away at the edge for a an inch and a half.

After the guiding edge had broke off, the cable left the grooves and began wrapping itself around the drive shaft of the motor which tore apart the rubber boot and o-ring between the pulley and the motor face.

Windows Motor World, the rebuild shop noted in the earlier posts is only 20 miles from me here in Florida. I'll stop by tomorrow and see it they can fix While-U-Wait.

FYI I removed the regulator motor in place [because the cable was already off the pulley] and w/o the motor assy, the regulator slid out without removing the top frame bolts and pushing back the top frame for clearance. I'll probably have to do this anyway, but thought I would add the fact that without the motor assy, the regulator comes out pretty easily... rather should I say, relatively easy... it was still a bear to wrangle around.

Thanks to everyone posting tips and DIYs on this job. Gordo

 

in my opinion, you must make sure the replacement that you are putting back in is the 're-engineered' one, it has a BRACE that crosses the valley and prevents the entire framework from FLEXING, which is what causes the 'plane' of the cable to be off and then come off one of the pulleys. those motors create quite a bit of torque and the frame it's mounted on flexes rather easily.


it's a pretty common problem and if you replace one and have the money, replace the other one too. just makes good sense!


if you buy a new one from a dealer, they are the new ones that have the brace built in.


if you buy one any place else, make sure it has the brace on it. my first time replacing mine, I had a welding expert weld a 1/8in x 1/2in x 'approx' 6" length steel bar and that was 4yrs ago and have had no problems with it since. shop did the work and charged $300, not bad. I did it the second time and it took about 3hrs to remove it and about 3hrs to reinstall it. tedious but nothing that difficult. I enjoyed the whole thing.

 

I just purchased a beautiful Caravan red 2000 XK8 with 35,000 miles and am n love with the car. However, after driving it for only 2 weeks the left rear window jammed up half way and would not move either way. I have always done my own mechanic work so read all the forum articles including the great documentation of Dan Jensen. Although not without some frustration, the replacement worked well and now my window works perfectly. I would add a few comments from my experience. As Dan explained, the top does not have to be removed (thank god). I worked alone and found that it was difficult to pry the top pivot assembly away and try to remove the regulator at the same time. A very easy solution is to use a ratchet strap hooked on the opposite side seat belt bar and connected to the top pivot and then ratchet it enough for the regulator to clear. It springs back when done with no problem. The front screw on the outside weather seal carrier is very difficult to remove and replace because the glass is so close. I ground off about half of a torx bit the correct size and then gripped it with a small vice grip and could get to it and free the screw and tighten it when putting it back. I also looped a piece of string around the screw when removing and replacing it because I dropped it a few times and didn't want to try to retrieve it from the bottom of that space. When installing the replacement regulator with the glass all the way up, I could not get the top adjustment/mounting bolt to line up with it's hole. This bolt was screwed in all the way to the regulator plate so I removed it and then replaced it after the regulator was inserted through a hole in the body which I assume was placed there for that purpose. Lastly, I noted that there would be some window adjustment required after installation which I would prefer to avoid. In my case, I used a digital caliper to measure the position of all three adjustment/mounting bolts and also the top travel adjustment bracket on my old regulator. I set those bolts and the top bracket on the replacement regulator to the exact measurements as on my prev regulator before installation and the window was perfectly adjusted when I tried it the first time. I might have just got lucky but suggest you try that. Many thanks to all who took the time to document this repair. I am not sure I could have ever accomplished it without the help of this forum and the generous contributors.
jcapser

 

I repaired one of the units this week. When I fitted the new cables they appeared to be slack when the window was at either extremity. I think they are supposed to be tight enough that the springs inside the plastic carrier should be compressed normally so they can expand and take up slack at the ends of travel. When I refitted the unit to the car and exercised it the cable immediately came off the lower pulley. Finally the penny dropped and I realised that the whole assembly was bent, reducing cable tension. So I carried the mod below to permanent hold the unit in a straightened position. Just an adjustable stud through the sheet metal to push on the lower stop adjustment bolt head. I think it will permanently cure the problem as the cables are always tight now. I hope this may help someone else.

 

That is an ingenious fix for the flexing issue the early model years had. At some point they added metal to stiffen it up but I am not sure exactly when that started. I know that my 2004 has the stiffer version.

 

Renault MEGAN 03 everything works as it should but I nd rear window replaced

 

Window Motor World! I used them last week, and They are Freaking AWESOME! Quick delivery. My old regulator was stripped (No motor) they then sent me a Window stop, and finally a replacement power cable. Julie and Ernie are the best! Can't wait for my other side to go!

 

Sorry to say, while fixing the right rear quarter window upper pulley (bent over) I turned one out of Bronze, ground out the stud and used a bolt with two thin locknuts and Loctite. As I finished install the assembly (having checked it multiple times to perfect operation) the LEFT side quarter window broke its pulley in half, talk about strange timing.
Took about 6 hours to remove that side, turn an aluminum pulley, modify test and reinstall it all.
The plastic parts of the Jag are a major downfall. Wish I had seen this post about the flexing mod, I left the lower plastic pulleys alone which may come back to bite me.
WORSE, the left window goes up when the right goes down and vice-versa during top operation now. (out of Sync) I pulled fuse the get either side in sync then reinserted fuse(s) to no avail at this point. This I tried with both up and both down, but the left either remains up when the top goes down or goes down after the top goes up jumping right back into out of sync.
Disconnected (new) battery, and grounded positive to negative dumping computer, it's not a typical front memory fault, it's like the wiring is somehow backwards on the motor now (connector only fits one way and I didn't mess with it) the unit functions up and down correctly, so it cannot be that I re-laced the cable windings backward, as something would mess up.
About to pop the seat out, pull wires out of one end of the connector and reverse their location to solve this NEW insanity she's pulling.
Anyone ever encountered this one?
V/R W. Winget
PS: both regulators came out without disconnecting top or assemblies, I used two boards to pry gently on the outer body area while the assembly scraped out of and back into the space, sucks, the ratchet strap will be the next time, good trick. waw