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Recommendations for Repairing Partial Load Breather Tube

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Old 05-12-2012, 10:26 AM
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Default Recommendations for Repairing Partial Load Breather Tube

D'oh! Thermostat housing replacement going as planned (had a small leak at the base where it meets the block) until I decided to whack the Partial Load Breather Tube where it connects to the crank case.

Wow! These tubes are extremely brittle. I have read what a pain in the backside replacement can be (despite the relative affordability of the part). Would appreciate any recommendations on how to splice the broken tube together and where to obtain an appropriate type and grade of hose?

Many thanks in advance.
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:07 PM
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I broke my hose/tube right at the connection to the timing chain cover when doing the tensioners and didn't have any hose/tube available so I used shrink tubing over the existing tube until I could get a replacement. After reading your post I am reminded to try and get some tube and tackle that job of replacing the brittle tubing.

Barry
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by barryl
I broke my hose/tube right at the connection to the timing chain cover when doing the tensioners and didn't have any hose/tube available so I used shrink tubing over the existing tube until I could get a replacement. After reading your post I am reminded to try and get some tube and tackle that job of replacing the brittle tubing.

Barry
I did exactly the same when doing my tensioners :0(
Fitted the new breather hose yesterday - not difficult but fiddly.
I removed the throttle body because I found it impossible to remove the fitting where the breather hose goes on to the stub underneath without doing so.Once that was free I taped the end of the new hose to the old hose and carefully pulled it under the inlet manifold - used a screwdriver to ease it from above when it caught on various bits.Undid the coolant expansion tank and moved to one side to get to the hose clip on the final bit of the breather hose.It's worth replacing the complete hose because if one part is brittle then so is the rest with the attendant potential for leaks(mine was cracked elsewhere) For $30 or so for the hose plus a bit of time it is well worth it.
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:23 PM
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Thanks Barry and batroute. Unfortunately for me, shrink wrap is not in the cards with all the pieces it broke into. Batroute, do you know where I can locate instructions on removing the throttle body? I guess if I am going to dive in, I may as well clean that out as well. Cheers.
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Timothy
Thanks Barry and batroute. Unfortunately for me, shrink wrap is not in the cards with all the pieces it broke into. Batroute, do you know where I can locate instructions on removing the throttle body? I guess if I am going to dive in, I may as well clean that out as well. Cheers.

If you look on here for some of Gus's postings I think the procedure is detailed there - if not pm me and I will detail it for you.BTW you will require a throttle body gasket - and yes,it's a great opportunity to clean the body and all the connections
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 05:54 PM
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+1

Check TB instructions from Gus:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

It's almost as if he's standing next to you passing the right wrench!

Graham
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 06:26 PM
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You used the term 'Crank Case'. Did you mean the valve cover?

I broke the plastic where the hose attaches to the connector nipple. Just happened to have some very thin wall hobby brass tubing that fit inside the broken plastic. Used brake cleaner to degrease, installed about 3/4" of the tubing inside the broken plastic and used JB Weld to hold it all together. Didn't use enough to even show so it was a totally invisible repair.

The thin wall brass tubing can be found in hardware stores or in hobby shops. It is used for model airplane fuel systems.

Heloise
 
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:57 PM
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Sorry, valve cover. You are correct. I think if enough of the hose had survived the knock I would have been able splice it but unless there is a 6" segment of something I can add then it is looking like I am going to have to dive in for a full replacement. Thanks for the posts, hopefully the title of the thread will make it easier for others to follow.
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 07:10 AM
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Default Throttle Body Electric Connections

While you are at it, take a really good close look at the elecric connectors. I chased several problems and went down a couple of blind alleys before noticing that the largest of the connectors on my TB was seating well but not properly latching to the base. (The hard-to-see internal locating tabs had cracked off). It would eventually work itself loose and cause communications problems in the process.

A 5-cent stainless screw serving in a set screw arrangement on that connector permanently solved what had appeared to be an ECU, TPS or CPS problem.
 

Last edited by Spurlee; 05-13-2012 at 07:11 AM. Reason: Spelling
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Old 05-13-2012, 11:56 AM
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Thanks for the heads up. I will be careful to ensure they are seated properly before putting humpty dumpty together again.
 
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:27 PM
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I replce these with either nylon or oil resistant rubber pipe, the originals are rubbish
 
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:28 PM
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Default Wasn't so bad :)

Thanks to all who assisted on this issue. Using the throttle body removal instructions sent by GGG, it was "relatively" simple the get everything apart. Now just waiting for the breather tube and throttle body gasket to arrive in the mail. An added benefit was the amount of sludge I was able to remove from inside the TB.

While the TB is off, has anyone replaced the electric water pump? I was having issues with heat and it is not the thermostat. I had posted on another thread but no bites as of yet. Any assitance would be greatly appreciated!!
 
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:45 PM
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Default Update to breather tube and throttle body.

All in all, I replaced the breather tube and cleaned the throttle body. Surpirsingly, this was the easy part of the project. Thanks for the recommendations. Given the relative affordability of the part, I am glad I just replaced it. Trying to find a crowfoot wrench to tighten the back screws on the thermostat housing is another bloomin' story.
 
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Old 06-02-2012, 04:05 AM
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An 8mm crows foot wrench is not generally available at the local ACE Hardware. Plan ahead for the next time you are in a Harbor Freight store.

Some have replaced the bolts with Allen bolts, or as I did, cut a slot in the bolt with a Dremel tool and use a screwdriver.
 
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:15 AM
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Default did the same thing

Fixed mine as I broke it right at the cover
I used a copper plumbing fitting
Forget the size now but it was a reducer
Been meaning to fix better but it has worked out
Used a small amount of high temp red silicon to hold it in place
Does not look to bad
 
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