relief valve installers; I am stuck on the t-30 screw removal. Used liquid wrench and then re-mounted motor for better leverage but to no avail. I am careful not to strip the screw and am using most of my weight to turn it It does turn counter-clockwise I assume. Will it eventually break free? What was your experience with this if you would like to reply I'm afraid of being too agressive with it! Dont want to buy a new motor Thanks to all!

 

I can tell you when I installed my valve I had to remount the pump to get leverage and applied equal force turn that plug out. It was hard but I got it out. I know of several who had difficulties in removing it, two who broke the T-30 tool and one that took the pump to a machine shop to remove the plug. Make sure you have a good T-30 tool and apply equal pressure when turning the tool.

 

I had to go through the install on 2 different pumps. The first time was on the pump that had originally come in the car. I recall the screw being difficult to start to loosen but I had the correct torx bit and I used a ratchet wrench that gave me pretty good leverage. Even with the relatively poor placement that I was dealing with (I had removed the pump from the tray support and it was lying on a towel in the trunk and I was keeping it from rotating somehow) it eventually loosened with steady even pressure and without having to use WD-40 or anything other than elbow grease.

That pump eventually failed and the dealer installed a replacement. So I went through the relief valve install again and, again, it was not all that difficult to loosen the screw on the second pump with steady even pressure.

Doug

 

2nd question on installation.......Thanks Gus and Seismic for answering my 1st. I did get out the t 30 screw. what is the best way to move over the roof house fitting without damaging it to make room for the hose? Thanks for any ideas.

 

Make no sharp bends and you will be fine.

 

The more I read this I am not sure I answered your question. Please be more detailed.

 

Gus, Sorry about clarity! When I removed the t 30 screw I then tried to screw in hose # 1 into that port that the t 30 screw came out of and there is not enough room for it to go in with that other hose next to it. Before I start to force it out of the way I thought I'd better check for advice first as these motors are so expensive to replace. I hope that explains things. I may be a little too cautious with this motor. I do appreciate the help!

 

I forced it tighter to enable the install of the bypass hose. I used a hammer with a little tap but you can put a wrench on it. Just take your time and move it just a little at a time.

 

Mick,

I had the same issue in February when I installed the relief valve. Here is what I posted at that time...

"When we tried to screw the new hydraulic line in the opening where the brass plug was, the adjacent hydraulic fitting was in the way. Other people have had this issue. Others have rapped the fitting with a hammer to get it to move out of the way. After my experience with the plug I did not want to do that. So, here is a more elegant technique that worked for me...

Next to the hydraulic fitting that is in the way is the brass T valve that releases pressure in the pump. If you remove it, it provides you access to put a wrench on the back of the hydraulic fitting. You can apply some pressure to the fitting and it will move enough to give you clear access to the hole where the brass plug was.

To remove the T valve, simply remove the two screws on either side of it, then turn the T valve counter-clockwise til it comes out.

Since I am a mechanical doofus, I would like some of the more seasoned hands on this board to critique this before someone else does it."

Hope this helps.

Jack

 

This will work.

 

Just voting in favor of the tap with a hammer. Worked for me, just remember.....tap. Don't use the 5lb hammer. Should see it move right over with little effort.

 

And do not hit the hose!