Interesting item. But when I found a list of vehicles (http://www.x431.cc/uploadfile/image/moredown/8.pdf), the only Jaguar listed is "S-TYPE 00-02". Maybe only a matter of time for other vehicles.

The information about this "key programmer" describes exactly that; it does not program the car for the new key transponder, but claims to read the previously programmed code from the car and then write that code to the new key transponder. Are all key transponders "rewriteable"?

Unfortunately, if the problem is that your car computer has lost the programmed key code, this product probably will not work, as there would be no code for it to clone.



from the ebay listing you referenced:

 

Right David, I should have specified US market cars.

 

Jaguar Land Rover Diagnostics Coding Programming Kit Dealer Software IDS SDD JLR


So would this work?

 

From your link:Maybe not for our vehicles

 

Hello everyone, sorry for the delay, I was finally able to try to get back on track to getting my 99 xk8 to start again.

After everything you all were so kind to suggest, and a chat I had with Gus, it seems that the next items I have to cover, from the easiest and cheapest onwards, are;

1. whether the key chip is still valid or holding a code and who can answer that question
2. if the battery should be replaced even though it tested okay but marginal
3. test the exciter ring
4. if the computer/transponder should be reprogrammed

First thing I did today was call a few more local locksmiths to see if I can get most of them to agree on/provide the same answer to my question about whether or not the Jag dealer is the only one that can or if someone else can and for much less money, either confirm the key chip is okay or if it or the security system/computer must be reprogrammed.

The result after calling many and another one that specifically advertised reprogramming and key chips, this person said he can do it but then asked me to hold so he can double check and he then came back and said that for my 99 xk8 only the dealer can do it, and all the other people I called today either didn't know or said dealer only. So so far i have only the one guy from the other day that claims he can do it, but for $145, only $12 or so less than the dealer, not a big enough savings to risk him not being as efficient as the dealer.

I even called the dealer today to ask if they can just check my key chip to make sure it is okay, the parts dept said its a service dept issue so I was transferred, then the service person said that I would still have to bring both the key and the car, that they cannot check only the key chip by me bringing only the key to the service dept.

So with the idea of simply and firstly having the key verified seeming impossible without bringing the car, I decided to move on to the next thing to try...

I then went out to the Jag and removed the battery just incase it had a short in it, I then connected the Jag battery + and - leads to jumper cables which in turn i connected to my family van battery with the van engine off. I then went inside the Jag and checked the voltage which said just under 13 so i then tried to start it but got nothing more from under the hood than the usual, only something sounding like the injectors noise, no relay or starter clicks, so I started up the van and let it idle to see if alternator assistance would help, it did in the sense that now when I tried to start the car the voltage gauge remained pretty steady at 13 or just a hair under, but still no start.

So now I was convinced at that point the battery is not the cause.

So now i am down to the exciter ring, but since it got dark outside I decided to leave that until hopefully tomorrow to try.

I was able to locate a tester that came with a timing light kit i purchased decades ago to use on a big block chevy motor etc, LOL, I know you're all jumping now thinking "go get a new tester Sid", but what the hay its still newish in the kit case, but the only thing I am not 100% sure about now, is how to perform the ohms test on this particular part.

The EQUUS 3022 ahmeter has a selector switch/dial that I turn to ohms and then it has a dial that I used to calibrate the ohms needle to zero while I touch the + and - clips, these clips are not the mini ones they are about 3 inches long from handle to tip so I guess I will have to connect a bare wire with mini clip on the end of the said wire to each of the larger clips.

So once ready,

1. do I just connect the two mini clips to the two prongs of the exciter ring plug and confirm the result to be .34 ?

2. the ohms section shows the range to be 0 (zero) to 300k.
It starts at 0 then goes up with little line/notches in between the following 1k,2k,5k,10k,20k,40k, etc to 300k

from the 20k to the 40k it shows at the first notch 20k->l ' ' ' ' ll l l<-40k notch , no number in between 20k and 40k so it won't be exactly stating 34.

2b. am I looking to get a result of 34k, is it supposed to be in "k" ?

Thanks alot, much appreciated,
Sid

 

Hi aode06, the X type video shows he made a key without dealer assistance due to all locks being changed and then he states it was programmed to the security system, so he too says the car must be present and he doesn't show the tool used to reprogram/add new code to the system. He also doesn't state price but I can call him to get an idea of the price incase i may find someone locally to do it, compare pricing, and i would be interested to ask him if he does that on 99 XK8.

Has anyone tried contacting him to ask if its possible on a 99 xk8 ?

UPDATE; 12/8 I just called them and left detailed message.

UPDATE 2; 12/9 4:06pm they didn't call me back .

UPDATE 3; 12/9 4:12PM I called them back, he said it is possible on a 99 xk8 and if I was in Georgia he can do it, he also mentioned that if you can't find someone in your area on your own, that you should try www.FindALocksmith.com .

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Hi everyone, I went to test the exciter ring today, wasn't too difficult, only the plug location is a little tricky because I only had enough wiggle room to use 1 finger to remove and reinstall the ring plug. Once the plug was disconnected I noticed it is female pronged so I inserted a paper clip in each hole, clipped on the tester clamps and tried to test but the result on the gauge was very close to zero so I figured this combination tester that also has a ohms tester from 0 to 300k ohms must either be the wrong type, maybe K = 1000 and maybe too high or the exciter ring is dead.

Nobody responded to my question about that since yesterday,

"2b. am I looking to get a result of 34k, is it supposed to be in "k" ?"

so if still nobody can answer that question by tomorrow then I will just go purchase another ohms tester and try to test again asap.

I also tried to start the car again after repluging the exciter ring, just incase the connection might have been off, but the car didn't start.

Thank you,
Sid

 

Hi everyone, I am not 100% sure about how to use a digital tester.
Can you please tell me how to test the exciter ring?

My understanding is that it should test about .34 on a digital tester, so when I am setting up the tester, to which selector option should I turn the dial/set the tester to for ohms in order to see .34 on the tester screen, is it 200, 2k, 20k, 200k, 2m, or something else ?

The lowest ohms setting on this tester is 200, will that do?

Thank you so much,
Sid

 

If you need to measure 34k ohms then on that meter you will need to use the 200k ohms scale.
If you don't measure near 34k on that scale then something is wrong.


Dave

 

Hi Dave, the exciter ring needs to measure about .34 OHMS, so which setting do I use to see .34 on the digital screen?

Thanks alot, much appreciated,
Sid

 

I thought I had seen it listed as needing to be 34k but if it needs to be 0.34 ohms then you would have to use the 200 ohm scale on that meter. Also first touch the meter leads together on that scale to see if you get "0" ohms as sometimes the resistance of the leads themselves will be measured on that low scale. If the meter is zero'd then you should get a reading of around 0.34 ohms.


Dave

 

According to Gus, the reading should be 30 to 35 ohms, not 0.34. Use the 0 to 200 scale. If the meter has more than one input, make sure the probes are plugged into the correct set.

 

Hello bakntyme, so when setting the dial selector, to set it as you said, 0-200, I should turn the selector to select "200" in the OHMS section, right?

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Yes set it to 200 ohm scale and test it by touching the leads together and see if you get 0 ohms.


Dave

 

Great, the picture is getting much clearer for me now.

This is a link to the multimeter i will be getting tomorrow...
Klein Tools Electrical Analog Multimeter Test Kit-69149 at The Home Depot

bakntyme stated: " make sure the probes are plugged into the correct set"

So which would be the correct set on that multimeter, and which color goes in where?

I did see some that color code each hole to help newbies like me understand and avoid mistakes, but on this multimeter all the options are black.

Thanks alot Dave, much appreciated,
Sid

 

The black goes the middle one (Com) and the red to the right hand hole.




Dave

 

This should help. This meter is set on 200 and I am testing a 100Ώ resister. When making your test do not touch the leads of the meter it will distort the readings.

 

This is the meter I use for everything, it's cheap and the settings are automatic. You just set it to either ohms or voltage, the meter does the rest.

22-Range Pocket Digital Multimeter - RadioShack.com

 

Hi Jandreu, thanks for the suggested multimeter, it looks like a really neat setup and the price is okay, I am just concerned about the mixed reviews and one person stated there is no manufacturers warranty so when he had an issue he was also turned away by Radio Schack. Radio Schack is also very strict about returns and exchange, so since useage on automotive is the primary anticipated useage, might be better to purchase from a store with better return exchange policy.

Thanks alot, much appreciated,
Sid

 

Sid - whereabouts in Florida are you?