Just a suggestion, I'm an electronics tech and that meter is the one in my tool belt for quick access, have used them for years, have to replace about every two years as the leads wear out where they enter the cover but fo $25 who cares. It's way easier to use than the manual setting VOM's.

 

Hello everyone, well the result is in, I got the tester and set it up, set the dial to 200 and zeroed it, then tested the exciter/transponder ring, the test resulted with a 32, tried multiple times, same result.

I am now wondering, before possibly venturing into the deep dark hole of the dealer service center, if testing all the fuses with this other tester would make any difference, I don't really think so since all the fuses light up with the light tester and all the others seemed fine when visually inspecting them multiple times.

I can't beleive this is all happening due a battery drain or jump start, and to top it all off they make the remedy a proprietary system, what a scam, surprised there hasn't been a class action yet.

My options to fix this without the dealer are getting slimmer to none, and slim left town, probably not in a Jag, not sure how to avoid them anymore.

Wonder if there's a way to completely bypass this so called security system.

Thanks alot,
Sid

 

Sid,

The following is an attempt to cheer you up a bit.

What happened to your car seems to be really, really rare. I've been kicking around XK8 forums (fora?) for about 7 years and have not seen it before. You should be able to avoid a recurrence.

Probably there's been no outcry about this system because trouble is so rare. And there is some measure of security provided by it vs. having any key with the teeth cut correctly being able to start our cars.

You've tried everything. Not like you just threw money at it. I'm not clear on where we landed as to whether it's possible a non-dealer would have a box to reprogram the car. But if not, maybe time to bite the bullet and let the dealer fix it.

And then be really, really mindful of correct procedure if you are ever forced to jump start the car again.

Hang in there & good luck.

 

Just a thought.
I use to own a 93 Caddy Eld., it had a coded key, and one day I went out to go somewhere and after trying to start, it just sat there---no starter clicking noises, but everything else worked as it should. Nothing I did would solve the problem and after contacting the dealer, the price they quoted just for the check they wanted to do, guided me elsewhere. After a few days of research, someone told me they had theirs fixed by the local high end lock smith owner. I called and explained the problem and he said; "I know just what the problem is, bring the car in and you'll be ready to go in an hour". After being delivered by a local carrier, an hour later he called and said I could pick the car up. Cost was 75 dollars.
Seemed like it was the ignition switch. He explained the switch has 2 very small hair like wires in it that rub on something or other that ID the key to the car and that they wear after years of use and once one breaks, end of story. He showed me the old switch and that is what had happened. He explained that an ignition switch does many things--that's why there are so many wires going to it--and starting the car is just one of them. A new switch and two keys + a little labor and the car was fixed.


May be your problem.


Chuck
05/XK8 Vert CF

 

Chuck, the exciter/transponder that they have been discussing is the modern equivalent of your Cadillac key detection technology.

 

Hi Dennis07, I really appreciate you trying to cheer me up about the potential of this ever happening again.

However, I must disagree with how rare this happens, a simple google will show otherwise, there are so many others experiencing the samething and expressing complete disgussed and astonishment that such a distinguishable brand would embed such an intentional fault in its product.

Even a one time occurence, in my opinion, is not acceptable, i was lucky that it happened at home and not where the occurence may have been a huge inconvenience and consequently may have put me in a vulnerable circumstance by which someone would have taken advantage of the situation to gouge me to the bone with the result still possibly being the issue not resolved after paying.

Furthermore I am of the opinion that no matter how frequent or rare, Jaguar should be the one to flip the bill, especially if rare since their cost would then be minimalized if there were such a low number of cases.

It is not normal for any car to lose any codes at all no matter the situation.

Batteries failing or needing to be jumped is a normal and frequent situation that occurs over the lifetime of ownership of any vehicle, especially in northern cold areas, so the possibility of such a situation as I and so many others have or are experiencing is not acceptable in any way shape or form... imagine this happenning to someone and possibly their family at a highway resting area in the middle of a freezing winter situation, and maybe even in the middle of the night, or in the middle of nowhere etc.

They know how to design things so that there is no memory loss of any codes, that technology has existed for decades, but yet even for such an expensive vehicle (when new), they/Jaguar CHOSE to make it this way, with such a fault/defect whether opinions differ about intentional or not.

Ask yourself why would a company that wants to be distinguishable by name and design, intentionally build a vehicle with an electronic part that is meant to hold codes, then design such a integral and critical part in a way with the possibility for it to lose the codes it requires for it and the vehicle to remain operable, hence making it innoperable?

The only sense that this makes is non$en$e, and then when it does happen to an owner they CHOOSE to make it expensive for said trusting vehicle owner to remedy the issue that ONLY THE DEALER can remedy/repair.

If Jaguar had advertised such a possibility as much as they did the vehicle strong points then I am sure many would have opted to purchase an alternative vehicle.

I think I and all others to whom this has happened to, would have prefered that Jaguars so called security system not be integrated and that I/we may have had the option to add our own choice of aftermarket security system, one that doesn't leave you stranded and can be bypassed at the vehicle owner choice, not Jaguars.

The only security this integrated system provides is that of financial security for Jaguar and its dealers.

Thanks again, much appreciated,
Sid

 

Hi everyone, I have found a post that shows details that may offer enough information to figure out a way to BYPASS the Jaguar security scam.

At this link: 1999 Jaguar XK8 Wont Start, No Diagnostics Showing

The diagrams are a little fuzzy but someone here probably can provide/post clearer and more useable copies of the same diagrams, and maybe even some ideas that would help us accomplish the bypass.

I personally am looking forward to such a bypass solution and then installing an aftermarket security system.

Thank you,
Sid

 

Hi Sid,
I don't know if you have it already have it but there is an electrical guide for the 1999MY at
http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1999.pdf

Figures 3.1 & 3.2 may be of help.

 

RJ237, thanks pal. I was suggesting this because somewhere along the line someone mentioned that the older XK8's may not have the newer key system, and since his is a 99 model (we don't know when it was built) it may still have the older system, but who knows, I for sure don't, but it might be something for him to think about, or at least ask a key shop about.--Thanks.
Chuck
05/XK8 Vert/CF

 

Hello everyone, I found a post stating that the guy had checked all his fuses by sight and they all seemed fine, however after performing a continuity check, one fuse was found to be bad, hairline crack, so after changing it, the car started. Guess I wil attempt the same though I'm pretty certain they were all perfect, I will get back to you with the results.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...problem-68795/

Thank you,
Sid

 

I found the following comment about Jaguar s type on another site, would this work on 1999 xk8, anyone ever hear about this or where to get one?

Comment: ANY TIME YOU DISCONNECT BATTERY BEST TO HAVE MEMORY SAVER PLUG IN THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER SOCKET TO KEEP POWER GOING TO PCM.

http://www.fixya.com/cars/t8688045-put_new_battery_in

Thank you,
Sid

 

Hi everyone, found the following comment,
anyone ever try it?
Safe to attempt on xk8?

Comment: Most cars if you plug the battery in with the key in ignition and turned to run, before plugging battery in, this will usually bypass the alarm.

My Dads 1999 Jaguar battery was ead we replaced with new one - Fixya

Thank you,
Sid

 

Sid, I don't think the lighter plug works unless the key is on. The nine volt should keep all settings OK, but you need to leave the switch on, so the battery change should be done in a matter of minutes. That's not a big issue, as everything could be ready.


Wayne

 

Hi, earlier in this thread it was suggested to lock the driver door to activate the alarm and then unlock/open the door with the key, then try to start the car. I have since seen this suggestion at other websites.

I had responded that I couldn't try that because my driver door lock doesn't match my key, however I am now wondering, with everything having been said so far in this thread, would it still be worth a shot and the expense to have a locksmith come out to match my master key to the door lock?

Is that possibly a way to reprogram the key to the security module?

It may also be cheaper than going to the dealer for possible reprograming of the security module.

Thank you
Sid

 

Sid, your test light verified that the high power fuses are good. Your alarm test verified that the car security system and key are not communicating, and your ohmmeter verified that the exciter ring appears good. You should probably re-check all of the regular fuses, using a meter. Take the fuses out one at a time and check for continuity. If you do not find a bad fuse, then the only reasonable explanations left are a damaged key transponder, or the car security system lost the programming for that key. If you had two keys, diagnosing which of those is your problem would be easier. Your best option is to get the car to a dealer and they can program the car for your key. If that doesn't work, they can cut you a new key and program it. Either way, you might want to have a second key cut and programmed at the same time. If you want to try saving the towing charges you could try again to locate mobile locksmiths in your area and see if any actually have the equipment to program the car, as a key transponder cloning will probably not help you.

You will probably not be successful in your search for a way to bypass or disable the security system. If it were possible, it would likely be all over the forums (fora?). And it would be much easier to steal our cars.

Also, since your key does not fit your door, you are at risk of being locked out of your car, and of course it would happen at a very inconvenient time and/or place, if your remote stops working due to a dead battery or any other problem. You might want a contingency plan for that. I do not know if the door lock can be keyed to your key. It might require re-fitting the door lock and the ignition lock with matching cylinders.

 

Absolutely. The security system talks to other modules via the SCP (Standard Corporate Protocol) bus.
The security module needs permission from the body processor first to ensure the key is OK (The BP gets an 'OK to fuel message' from the Key Transponder Module). The Instrument Cluster is also on this bus so probably needs a thumbs-up as well. Also the IC talks to the main ECM via the CAN bus so I suspect agreement is needed there as well.
Sorry to say it but without the ECM's say-so the car's probably going nowhere under it's own power
An advanced code-reader should be able to show you any BP/security DTCs.

 

This problem appears to have been the result of jump starting the vehicle without using the correct procedure(engine of donor vehicle running).There have been prior reports of instrument clusters being fried as a result of jump starting - if the I.C. is in the security loop would that cause the problem as described?

 

According to the vehicle care handbook step 2:
Do not run the jump start vehicle's engine when boost starting a Jaguar vehicle.

 

Re-reading the diagrams for my 2003MY it shows the IC contains the Passive Anti-theft System although this doesn't appear on the 1999MY version - is this a later option? Nevertheless if the IC comms. are fried it won't be able to talk to the other modules.
Sid - we need to know the status of the instrument pack - do all the lights come etc?
Also you need to know if Body Processor pin FC14-80 is connected to chassis only with ignition in pos. 3 (use your DVMs continuity function)
This is also available at the ig. switch connector FC4-1
If not then ig. switch is faulty.
All the above is taken from page 03.1 of the 1999 electrical guide.

 

Just thinking here. (Dangerous I know) But Sid said his drivers door doesn't work with the ing. key. If this is true, wouldn't that leave something out of the security loop? If something is left out, wouldn't that or, couldn't that possibly be an issue to starting?
Say you need ten things to agree to allow starting, however in his case, there is only nine of the ten working.
Damn Sid, get a good locksmith over there for a look see. I'm beginning to wonder if you really want to get the thing going.
Hummmmmm!


Chuck
05/XK8