2000 xk8 80,000 miles
Today, I took my car out of storage and noticed a leak. A local mechanic found a bad joint in a coolant hose, repaired it. I took it to Emissions Testing where it passed. On the way, the Restricted Performance light came on and immediately went out. I left it out in the warm sun, started it, and the Check Engine light came on as well as Restricted Performance. (I mention the warm sun only because usually, it revs to 1500 revs then settles down to 900 and I take off) When it started this time, it immediately reved to 900. It was running very rough.
I took it to AutoZone, had them check it and they found six codes:
PO352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
PO352 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0304 Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected
P1316 Misfire Rate Exceeds Emissions
P1111 System Pass
On the way home, the car smoothed out, and the Restricted Performance light went out, but the Check Engine light remains on.
If anyone has any idea what is going on, or experienced it themselves, any help or advise would be greatly appreciated that I can relay to my local mechanic (who is not a Jag mechanic, but rather good)
Thanks

 

The common advice for codes thrown by a car that has been in long-term storage is a weak or dying battery. I would clear the codes, charge the battery, put some highway miles on the car, and see if any codes return. P1111 is always a great sign. You may simply be dealing with spurious codes thrown due to a long-dormant battery....

 

Thanks, and you may be right. This year I neglected to connect the trickle charger. I charged it and it seemed ok. Thanks again

 

I cleared the errors and car was fine. Check engine light went out and it ran fine. Today, again, I started it in the morning, drove 10 miles, everything fine. Parked it in the sun, go start it - Restricted Performance comes on. I drove 1 mile, it goes out, then back on for a few seconds and then out again. 15 miles later, Check Engine light comes on. When the car starts when it's cold, it runs rough for a few seconds until the RPM's settle down, then everything is fine. That's the only thing that is abnormal about it. I'll go to Autozone again to read the codes, and I'm sure it's going to be the same thing. Frustrating as heck!

 

Have them load test the battery while you're there. Also, turn on the ignition, wait until the self check lights go out and then start.

 

Just had it tested. 100% charged. Also, the Check Engine light turned off while I was driving there. It didn't go off when I waited with the ignition on. The other thing I've noticed lately, when I turn the key on, what seems like the fuel pump is making more noise occasionally than usual. (I had it replace about 3,000 miles ago). The noise could be something in the roofs hydraulics, don't know just that it's coming from the trunk. Roof works. When it first started, I thought it was my license plate rattling. Thanks for your help

 

Hi mate,I am getting more or less the same thing as you and I no the feeling,trying to sort it out as we speak,code reading for me was coil D,I changed the plugs and coil D today and car ran great for 15miles,please keep us updated and if I get any joy I will let you no👍

 

I've decided to take it to a Jaguar specialist in a couple of weeks. I'm hoping he'll be able to figure it out. I'll be sure to let you know as well. Best of luck

 

Lol snap,I just book mine into my local indi jag center in the week,good luck bud

 

If you're still getting the P0352 you could try moving that coil to another hole and see if the code goes with it. The tricky part is figuring out which one is coil B. ;^)

 

If you're still getting the P0352 you could try moving that coil to another hole and see if the code goes with it. The tricky part is figuring out which one is coil B. ;^)

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...coil-d-183597/

 

Looking from the front of the car B coil will be first on the right
G coil H coil
E coil F coil
C coil D coil
A coil B coil

​​​​​​​ FRONT

 

My XK8 MY2000 gave warning Restricted Performance while driving. I tried to get home and drove about 15 km. Then the engine stalled and could not be started. I towed the car home and ran code checks - no error codes displayed. I filled some petrol just to be sure (the meter was at about a quarter full, but I figured that the meter sensor could be stuck). No change, no start. It does not fire at all.

Any ideas? No fuel supply? No ignition? It is strange with no error codes.

I have had problems with the throttle position sensor, but it indicated good solid error codes when it was faulty and also gave "Limp Home" error. Drilling a hole in it and spraying with electrical cleaning agent solved that problem.

 

When trying to resolve the problem of no error codes for the "Restricted Performance", and now non-starting engine) I have now used three different OBD code readers (that worked before with this XK8 car). None of them find a correctly working protocol when using the generic code reading mode. The one of them that can be set specifically for XK8 seems to perform diagnostic, but there are no error codes.

Does this mean a likely engine control module failure, or what?

 

4.0 with plastic tensioners?

Bore wash?

 

I bought the car two years ago. It is a US car, VIN and engine numbers indicate the intermediate generation of the tensioners that are supposed to be a little improved compared to the first generation but still plastic. But I donīt know if they were changed to the later metal ones in the US. Is there a simple way to inspect this?

There was no strange noise when it happened (lighting the Restricted Performance), and not when it died completely.

And the lack of OBD diagnostic communication now (that worked before) leads me in direction of an electronic/electrical problem.

 

Is it possible that the ignition key coding has been lost? So the anti-theft start inhibitor is activated? The engine cranks with both of my keys, but no tendency of ignition. There is no smell of gasoline in the exhaust pipes. Should I check if the fuel pump works?

But again, why does it not give OBD diagnostic communication any longer? I have tried with three OBD code readers that all worked with the car before.

By the way, today I checked all fuses in the car. All fuse boxes. No blown fuse.

 

Do the code readers activate at all? If blank suggests a voltage issue as it should still let codes generated by a security lock out be cleared, I seem to remember a similar post that was corrected by a hard reset and was caused by a glitch in one of the control modules.
You can find instructions for a hard reset in DIY Sticky
Jeremy

 

They activate by being powered through the OBD connector and it is possible to perform various selections on the readers. But they complain about no communication.
I have done the hard reset procedure (disconnecting the battery etc), but there was no change.

 

Now getting:
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire
P1313 Misfire Tare Catalyst Damage Fault Bank 1
P0532 Ignition Coil B Primary/Secondary Circuit
P1111 System Pass
The Check Engine Light went out(?)
If I'm reading this right, do I need to replace the Cylinder 2 coil pack?
If so, I've seen them advertised for $125.00 each and as little as $10 ea on Ebay. Can that be right?