I still have all the parts that go to the twin-screw kit, including the modified intercoolers and intake manifold spacers. Yes, the Kenne Bell 2.6L blower is available, along with the "black box", 90mm throttle body and giant, beautifully-machined aluminum intake elbow. Less than 300 miles of use on all parts. It would be nice to sell the whole kit together, but I can certainly sell individual parts.

PM me with any interests.

 

So it started today after complete reassembly.

Idles okay, but a bit high and an occasional stumble. I think I need to bend the throttle cable bracket a bit more to bring down the idle. If I rev it up, it's slow to respond and only gets up to about 3k rpms, then drops down and either stalls or stumbles for a few seconds then returns to high idle.

Codes are P1000 and P1122. P1122 may have to do with adjusting that cable bracket. Warnings on dash are: Failsafe mode, Trac not available and ASC not available.

Any ideas?

 

remember that this engine is absolutely NOT fly by cable. the pedal position sensor just happens to be operated by a cable

check your throttle position PIDs with a scanner

 

Using an Actron CP9185 scanner. Here is the data I was able to get:

Abslt TPS 3.5 ~20
Engine RPMs 1120 - 1190 ~2000
Calc Load 31 ~61
MAF 1.54 - 1.58 ~6.6
MAP 12.4 ~20
Ign Adv 4.5 ~20.5

Numbers are first at idle and then approximate (~), when the throttle is blipped up to about 2k rpm.

When I blip the throttle, it responds quickly and drops down to idle. It is only when I hold the accelerator down that it begins to stumble and will stall. When I take it on the road, I am unable to go above 15 mph and it does not respond to throttle input except to bog and almost stall sometimes.

The throttle cable bracket adjustment actually has no effect on the engine idle speed.

 

I performed the TPS reset procedure, which had no effect. Was thinking of trying a "hard reset" and would follow the instructions given in that FAQ thread.

To hard reset, do you REALLY disconnect the negative cable to the battery and hold it on the POSITIVE battery terminal??? Sounds risky. When this is done, is the positive cable still attached to the battery, or is it also disconnected and out of the way, or do you leave it connected?

 

Just did the hard reset procedure. No change whatsoever. I guess it's off to the dealer!

 

Did you check the fuel pressure - it sounds like it was sitting for a while since you talked about draining the tank? If not, it might be worth checking if it idles but won't run under load.

 

NOTE: The twin-screw kit has been sold. I no longer have any parts for that kit.