Hi.
I have a 2002/3 4.2 XKR convertible. A couple of days ago the boot (trunk) was left open (the hood (roof) itself was closed at the time) and was followed by a heavy rain storm. I have since dried it out but have been left with electrical problems, as follows:

Central locking does not work at all, with the remote apparently being dead. The drivers door can be locked and unlocked with the key, but the passenger door is not controlled. The boot also can only be unlocked with the key.
The hood release switch appears dead - no chime or effect- and the triangular windows remain open all the time.

These problems did not all happen at once; I did open the hood then could not close it (I did so manually by releasing the hydraulic pressure, hauling it up and unclicking the latch using a huge allen key). Following that, the switch did chime, but nothing happened.

The battery is in excellent condition and I do not believe that the fault lies with the switch. I have checked all fuses in the rear unit, the end dashboard unit, and in the engine compartment, and I have shifted the relays into different positions - no effect at all. I have heard that there is some kind of protection unit (somewhere - I have no idea what it looks like or where it is) which can cause these problems - I don't know if this is the case. Can anyone cast any light on this, please? Thanks!

 

Hi.

I am not 100% sure, but I think that below the fuse/relay box in the trunk you have a Security and Locking Control module. That would be my prime suspect after your description of what happened.
The fuse box has to come out to gain access to the module.

 

+1. Disconenct the battery and remove the 3 bolts that fasten the fusebox in the boot. Remove the 2 or 3 wire clamps that restrict the fusebox movement and lift out the fusebox. Unsnap the SLM from below the fusebox and unplug the connectors and the antenna cable. Inspect the connections for corrosion and carefully pry open the module. Dry it out thoroughly with a hair drier. Replace it and see if that resolves the problem.

 

The security & locking and the body processor modules do have a part in the operation of the roof and should be dealt with if they are contaminated with water. In order to get the windows up try this open the roof latch manually, close the pump petcock and push and hold the closed button for the roof. What should take place is that the rams will push the roof up and lock, the latch will close and if they are satisfied the windows should go up. What puzzles me is that you have the tone saying the operation is completed and the windows are not moving. If they do not go up you may need to manually lock the rams and close the latch manually then jumper the window relay to close them electrically.

This is a link to the ram linkage and the procedure on this is to unlock (retract) the ram by applying pressure to the top what you need to do is the opposite and apply pressure to extend the ram up. I have done this many times but hard to explain to others. When you look between the curtain and the roof you will see the linkage see if you can apply pressure upwards to fully extend the ram locking the roof linkage and you will need to do this to both sides. Please use caution not to bend any part of the roof frame in the process.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...oof%20Rams.jpg

When all is locked in then try pushing the closed button to close the windows. Both the rams and latch micro switches must be satisfied before the windows go up.

I hope this helps.

 

Thanks for all these replies - still not sorted, though!

My original post was not clear. When it first happened I was able to open the roof (once). When I tried to close it the button chimed - but nothing happened. Now, nothing happens at all.

I think that the roof had not latched in the open position properly on that first occasion, either. Since then I released the pressure on the pump and was able to haul the hood over, release the overhead latch with the allen key, and fix it in place - which is why the hood is closed at the moment. The roof switch now does nothing - no chime or anything else. I found the security module and cleaned it up: contacts (which did show a little corrosion) and the rather dirty circuit boards. All reassembled cleanly - but no change in behaviour.

More info: The first time I opened the roof after the rain, after a couple of minutes I heard a metallic clunk - I thought it was a stick thrown up from the country lane. I did notice that the folded-back hood did not appear to be as completely down as normal, so my suspicion is that the rear latch (is there one?) closed without capturing the hood - so it might be in the wrong position. If this is so then maybe I need to release it manually - how would I get to it and do that? - maybe I am talking rubbish! Secondly the central locking: when I unlock the door, the passenger door unlocks but the driver's mechanism cycles a few times; when I lock, only the driver's door locks. Thirdly - though I don't see why there may or may not be a connection - the radio tells me to wait (having put in the wrong code 24 hours ago and having driven for about an hour) and does not ask me for the code. Could there be a single cause for all this?

I have undone the petcock ans you suggested, Gus, and opened the roof manually. It did not close on the button - so pulled the front forward and closed it again on the key. Do you think I have microswitches in wrong positions, somehow?

Thanks.

 

Is the pump motor working?

Also look at both rams to see if they are still connected.

 

Hi Gus,

Two questions - how do I know if the pump is working? How do I get to the hydraulic rams?

....it's 11.45pm UK time, so I'll sign on again tomorrow!

 

The rams/lifts are located on the left and right in the rear of the car and you can see part of them when looking between the head liner and the roof. If you are unable to identify an abnormalities between the two then reach in with YOUR KEY OUT OF THE IGNITION and see if they move around. You could have a broken mounting bracket. As for the pump when you press the roof button see if the motor turns if it does not then unplug the white/black power lead to the pump and see if you have power to it with a volt meter when you press the button.

The only other way to check the rams is to remove the back seat.

Link http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...Brakedown2.jpg
Link JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Do you use Skype?

 

Hi - update!
Struts all appear fine; I have not yet tested the switch; the radio has decided to work again. My current feeling (as in 'now' rather than in 'electrons'!) is that this is an electronics issue.....

 

If I were you I'd follow Oyster + Steve (WhiteXKR)'s advice and check the SLM.
If there's water in it you risk doing further damage if it doesn't get dried out PDQ.

 

Thanks, Steve:

Yes, I have already done this - removed the module, cleaned up the contacts opened it up and ensured that everything is dried and clean. Dead as a dodo!

 

If the SCM had definitely been flooded, and no longer functions now that it is dry, chances are it is fried. Do check fuse F10 (10 Amps) in the trunk fuse box though before giving it last rites.

 

Fuses are all ok. Is is possible that the unit has lost its programming - or do you think I should just look for a replacement? If I do this must I obtain the same module (the ref no is LJE2600BD)

Cheers!

 

Anything is possible, but I think it far more likely that it suffered internal hardware damage.

You will need to match the part number LJE2600BD. A new part will need to be programmed. It would be most economical to find a used part with a matching VCATs code (SW version) also and no programming will be needed.

The VCATs code is on a label under the carpet in the boot near the spare.

 

Thank you everyone for your valuable advice. I have decided to book this into an independent Jaguar specialist in Newton Abbot, UK. I'll report back when they let me know the situation.

 

I am with you on that it has an electrical issue but the metallic clunk concerns me. I am with Steve and others on the security module just use caution when operating the roof until you locate the source of the clunk. You do not want to exasperate the problems. Please post what you find to be the problem.

 

Hello, folks - sorry to take so long to give you the update.
Yes indeed, the security module was fried, together with a couple of relays; a replacement with the same number was not readily available, so I decided to go straight to a new one: cost me about £500 - very ouch. I'll don't think I am likely to leave the boot open again.



I had the car completely serviced at the same time; replaced front discs, all oxygen sensers, front suspension bushes, and a load of other stuff. Nothing to cause the 'clunk' was found (it would have been if there was an issue) and it has not happened again, so I suspect that this was just coincidence and I had run over a small branch - there are a lot in the lanes where I live - which had simply jumped up and hit the underside. This full service was a really good idea: not only did it keep the car in good shape, but it also cost so much that the security module's cost became deeply insignificant in comparison!