Did a search on this, but couldn't find anything helpful.


On our 2003, 41K miles, when coming to a stop, there is a definite slight jolt as the transmission downshifts into 1st.
All other shifts are fine and positive whether shifting up or down.
Have same problem if Sport Mode is engaged.


I'm assuming that shifting linkage adjustment is fine, as the gearbox shifts correctly in auto or manual.


At this time, it is not serious, but I was wondering if there is an external adjustment on the transmission to remedy this situation.


Thanks
Jack

 

You have the lurch, sometimes a fluid change will help, sometimes having the adaptions updated in the box will help, sometimes nothing helps.
Search the forum for the lurch for plenty of info.

 

My car does the same thing. I've recently changed the fluid. It only does it when I come to a quick stop then get back on the gas quickly. The transmission acts completely normal otherwise. Goes into gear quickly doesn't miss shifts or jump out of gear. I was thinking of changing the differential fluid next.

 

If you have not yet replaced the rear sway bar bushings and links you should consider it.

When I did mine it made a remarkable difference in how much drive train clunk I felt on shift changes both up and down.

 

While we are collectively adding on to your to-do list, consider the following, which may or may not help your situation:

• Grease the 2 rear axle u-joints (4 nipples total)
• Check the rubber coupling between the transmission output flange and the driveshaft
• Check the rear transmission mount, in the same vicinity as the rubber coupling

 

Thanks
Will put the car up on the lift and check these tips these out.

Temperature here today is 31'F and was curious if temperature would have any effect while transmission was still cold. Appears it made the lurch a little more apparent. 5 mile drive home from lunch with a few traffic lights. Will compare the "lurch" with warmer box. Not totally sure, but I'm thinking the "lurch" wasn't as bad during the summer.

Going to try the ATF change.
I have this device that removes the engine oil out of the crankcase of the small diesel on our sailboat by inserting a tube down the dipstick tube.
If I can get that to work, I'm going to replace it with the Amsoil synthetic ATF which has worked well on the boats transmission. Granted the boats gearbox only has forward, neutral, and reverse, but it appeared to shift easier after I started using the Amsoil. Amsoil also claims their synthetic ATF dissipates heat better. Not sure about that, but that was one of the reasons I started using it on the boat because there was no external cooling for the gearbox.
Thanks for the replies , very helpful
Jack

 

Don't do it, there are many threads on the ATF change procedure which needs to be followed closely. There are also many threads discussing the suitability or not of various fluids.
The filter is integral with the pan in your gearbox so it might be prudent to change that and also the electrical sleeve which can only be accessed when the pan is dropped.

 

The drain plug is at the bottom, towards the back of the (plastic) pan, so draining is easy. The fill plug, on the other hand, is sort of hard to get to (which is where you would have to put the tube) and is horizontal, near the output flange. Remember, these transmissions are sold as "sealed", there is no dip stick as the fill procedure involves a thermometer. You might want to search the forum for "MERCON SP" for further information. It is not that hard to do, but it is definitely involved.

The fluid you need has to be compatible/certified for this transmission (ZF 6HP26). The more popular options are the "factory" LifeGuard6 from ZF and the Mercon SP. I would recommend you do some research before putting in anything else.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Silly me. I should have lifted the bonnet before I spoke!!
Must have been thinking about one of the other cars.
Yes, got home, and couldn't find the dipstick, and the manual confirmed this.


However, am surprised there is a drain, as all the cars I've ever changed transmission fluid required dropping of the pan (usually with a lot of fluid in it).


The "lurch" was not as bad as the transmission warmed up, so in the meantime, we'll keep researching fluids, and probably live with the problem at least until Spring unless it gets worse, which at this time is totally acceptable.
Jack

 

looks like I have some work tomorrow after work and over the weekend. I know my mount is OK. I had the motor replaced and the tail shaft part of the transmission was snapped off. Don't know if the garage did it but it was replaced. I think I'll try greasing the u joints because that's what it seems like it is to me.

 

'The lurch' is a well known issue that's been around since 2003. The symptoms, cause and potential fixes have been discussed extensively. No need to reinvent the wheel.

 

I had the same symptoms. Changed the fluid, slightly better but still there. Then I had her om stands for a month doing some other work and suffered from a few random warning lights so did a hard reset. The lurch went far worse then, but after a few hard drives it got better and better until now, it's gone away. Apparently the gearbox control unit relearns your driving habits after a hard reset , it worked for me so who knows in your case.