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Crimped connector under the bonnet, and for brakes? Solder and shrink tube would be a permanent repair rather than this backyard foolishness.
The crimped connector would not be under the bonnet, but instead in the trunk fusebox. You can always remove the crimp and solder and shrink tube if you wish. Nothing is stopping you from doing that. The off-the-shelf product will come with the crimp instead. Please use a little bit of critical thinking before criticizing.
I just noticed something, for those of us who have a 4.2 V8, the placement of the throttle cable assembly makes it so the vacuum pump needs to be mounted elsewhere in the engine bay compared to where Pistnbroke did so. I'm glad I haven't bought the pump or started this project yet, because I had not noticed that issue.
How about behind the inner (left) fender splash guard? I seem to recall there is a bit of room in there. Might be difficult to mount but out of the way, little heat, relatively close to the booster. Probably just need to cut one hole for the hose, use a grommet and slip the electrical wires next to the hose.
wj
How about behind the inner (left) fender splash guard? I seem to recall there is a bit of room in there. Might be difficult to mount but out of the way, little heat, relatively close to the booster. Probably just need to cut one hole for the hose, use a grommet and slip the electrical wires next to the hose.
wj
I like that idea and I also recall that there is room in there.
Pistnbroke, do you have the physical dimensions of the pump? Have you noticed any delay between pressing the brake pedal and the pump's effect?
Last edited by giandanielxk8; Sep 14, 2023 at 05:02 PM.
Here are some photos of a spare I have . It should be mounted vertically. The pipe on the side is the air outlet ..points down..and usually has a rubber cover.
Best way could be to put the vacuum pipe ..OD 10mm trough the metal straight into the booster chamber two L brackets to secure. Photo 1 Photo 2 Photo 3
Distance between mounting lugs 102mm
Hole diameter 6 mm
overall length 140mm
Dia of top pump chamber 60mm
Motor diameter 50mm
Power 40 watts.
red is + white is - dont cut the plug off till you checked it works
Last edited by Pistnbroke; Sep 15, 2023 at 01:53 AM.
I was a bit surprised by the pricing differences. IMO since this is not mandatory for brake operation I'm inclined to buy cheap and roll the dice. If it fails I'll buy one made in germany for 3X the price but until then...
wj
Hi @Pistnbroke , following on from our other thread, I've had a good look at the job and feel confident that I've followed the instructions so can proceed. I've ordered the pump but can you give me some guidance on spec or part numbers of the pipe, T-Piece and any clamps I will need?
If I've read it correctly, I need:
A T-Piece
Three vacuum pipes (Servo to T-Piece, T-Piece to Pump, T-Piece to Throttle Body
A one way valve between the T-Piece and the Throttle Body
Clamps to secure the pipes at each end
It would be really helpful if you had a suggestion for these four items. No hurry as I won't rush into this but looking forward to removing more of that sponginess.
I suggest you wait till you get the pump and measure the outlet....then measure the pipe to the inlet manifold . You may find it easier to use an 8mm T and then use a reducer on the pump so its all one size... I just looked on ebay for the parts.. Dont use plastic because of the heat...Remember the arrow on the valve points towards from the inlet manifold.
I ran a wire all the way to the rear fuse box for the pump feed ..that s the grommeted hole by the throttle cable.
The only other thing is that if you are stuck in traffic say at the thames crossing on a friday night then the pump runs all the time you have your foot on the brake. So you could slip it into park and remove foot or fit a 1 min timer to the supply so the pump runs for 1 min each time you hit the brake
