This post is an attempt to summarize a couple of key points that, while almost all of this appears elsewhere in the excelent instructions available, these points do not all appear in any single document that I could find. Hope this summary helps you when you replace your first water pump.

1) Use Gus' Jagrepar.com for further instructions or as further reference.

2) When you order the water pump, don't order the O-Ring. At Jaguars direction, newly manufactured water pumps have a tapered molded metal housing that by design eliminates the need for the seperate O Ring.

You will need a gasket, make sure it is part of the item you purchase.

3) Our forum's concensus is: Do not order the metal fin impellers. The car was designed for the cavitation provided by the plastic impeller not the metal ones.

4) FYI, there is a TSB about the original water pumps (pre 1999 as I recall) having black plastic impellers that disintergrate. This is 2015. While pumps with defective black plastic impellers might still be in your car, I can't imagine any of those are still being sold. Back when they were, impeller color was important. The TSB references black plastic being replaced by white impellers. This is no longer true, new properly made pumps do and can have black impellers.

5) Tools:

5/8 inch socket used on the belt's auto tensioner. Move it counter clock wise to release tension.

5/16 inch socket. (this is good for both the water pump mounting bolts and the 3 bolts hoding the belt's pully on the water pump). (Note other forum members point out Jag uses 6mm x 50 bolts on thier pump, still swear mine was 5/16 inch)

Torque Wrench - but don't forget 5/16 inch sockets are usually smaller. Be sure you have a way to connect your 5/16 socket to your torque wrench before you start.

Hi Tack Gasket Sealant (about $7 at Auto Zone)- this keeps the gasket centered and attached to the water pump as you move it down and around to install it.

Put Hood in Service Position:
Small flat blade screwdriver (used to pull the clips on the telescoping hood braces back just a little bit to release the brace from the hood/bonnett. Guard these clips with a spare finger while moving them - there are way too many stories of them flying off into the black abyss of your driveway).

3 foot long wood dowel brace to support the hood while you move from telescoping brace #1 to work on brace #2. The single brace will not support the hood and the unfastened brace will naturally extend fully - Since it is extended, it will lie on top of engine components that now have no clearance with the hood if it closed. Things will break, bend, and dent if the hood closed on top if it.

Note: There is a hole in each of the hood's mounting brackets that some use as a safety - insert a large metal screwdriver/bolt in it or something.

[I hate to have learned things like this the hard way but I did so, a warning for you: DO NOT put a wood brace on the plastic "Jaguar" covers even for just a second. IT WILL crack them with just the slightest pressure]

Find a soccer ball, basketball or something you can safely lay on top of the engine as a safety buffer as you transition between hood brace 1 and 2.

Installation Key Points:

Water pump to engine torque: 8 foot pounds + 90 degrees
Pully to water pump torque: 12 foot pounds + 90 degrees

Of course you can not fully tighten the pully to water pump bolts until the belt is back on to prevent spinning, but do tighten the 3 bolts as much as you can to get the pulley in place and in alignment. Here's why: It turns out that the tolerance is much tighter than you'd ever expect. If the pully has any front/back play or wiggle you will not be able to get the belt back on. The pulley must be in its proper position for the belt to fit over the lip on the pulley.

Forum members advise to go back and re-torque the bolts after a day or two. I did and found that yes, it was needed after the gasket settled.

Sorry I don't have thermostat info for you.

 

Thank you Johnken. Do you know who sells the proper water pump? The ones I've found online are with metal blades.

 

Check partsgeek most likely i went there.

 

I might as well do all components. Any comments about these choices:
More Information for GATES 33948
More Information for ÜRO PARTS AJ82217KIT
More Information for GATES 43503
Thanks in advance

 

Replacing the water pump is a piece of cake.

There is no need to replace the thermostat housing.

You do need to replace that plastic stack located right behind the thermostat as it will crack in time. You will need a crow's foot socket wrench to remove one of four bolts which fastens the stack to the engine block as it is inaccessible with conventional tools.

Yes, I've had a shattered plastic-vaned water pump overheating, causing a ruptured reservoir, followed by radiator return hose blow out after replacing the reservoir but before water pump replacement. I'm lucky the engine survived these episodes and runs happily still.

 

I was told the housing cracks are common, so why not replace all at one time, plus it's cheap. Anyone have a comment about the quality of the parts in the previous posting?

 

I don't know of a guide but it is easy, just unbolt, bolt back on. I would pull off the tstat housing and do the WP first, better access to it that way. I would get the torque specs so it is all back on and snug to correct specs.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ts-data-29800/

Thant is a good link to look for stuff to help you do various repairs.

 

The post to which you refer is confusing. The tower is part of the thermostat housing, so yes, replace it with an aluminum one.

 

Thanks for the input. Looks like a busy weekend. Thanks.

 

Thanks for correcting my previous post. The tower/stack is indeed part and parcel of the thermostat housing, and needs to be replaced with an aluminium/alloy one. Just make sure you have the right crow's-foot socket wrench to undo the one incredibelly hard to get at attaching nut... Good luck.

 

Thank you all for the great advice.

 

I know the issue of coolant has come up numerous times, and the answer doesn't seem to be very clear which way to go. My car recently had work done it and the thermostat was replaced. The new coolant was pink. Before I had the work done, it was an orange coolant FROM the dealer. What is the best way to go with coolant?

 

Needs to match the Jaguar spec for your car. Colour does not matter but is often a hint that it does not match the spec.

Certain types mixed with the OE coolant can gel and ruin the car. Beware.

 

I have two things I need to do, flush out the old coolant to replace with new/original coolant, and replace the water pump, thermostat and housing. Do I flush first, then install the new parts OR do I install the new parts THEN flush?
Thanks in advance

 

You could chemically flush the first pass, then do the pure water pass. Change parts and refill with proper fluid.

 

Thank you jamdmyers. Will do.