I'm currently getting parts/tools together to do the 2nd tensioner project on my 1998 XK8 convertible. I am waiting for delivery of parts I ordered online from Tously Ford. I used part number from a post I found on this board to place order...

can someone confirm that I ordered the correct part #'s:

2005 Ford THUNDERBIRD - 2W926K254BA -(left tensioner)
2005 Ford THUNDERBIRD - 2W926K254CA - (right tensioner)

BOLT M6X35 HF PIL 8 (4 bolts)

The reason I am asking is that I see on this board discussion of part number cross-references to a 2000 Lincoln LS. I guess they used this same engine in thunderbird as well...

I plan to re-read the 'zip-tie' procedures a few more times and tackle this next weekend.

Thanks

 

I'm not sure. My tensioners were 2W9Z6K254CA and BA, not 2W92. The bolt length looks okay, just compare them to the ones you remove to insure they are shorter.
RJ______________________
97 XK8 Conv 85K mi

 

Those are correct part numbers for the tensioners.
Wrong bolt number.
you will need four bolts part number W500301S300.
They are shorter than the ones you are replacing.

 

yea, W500301S300 is the part number I used to order the bolts.. they are out of stock, so I'm waiting on them to be shipped.

2W9Z6K254CA and BA is the part number I used... (2 was a typo for a Z)

Thanks

 

Hi JJF,
cant help with part numbers but have just done zip tie method. Id like to offer a couple of useful points to anyone as it was not too clear to me initially.
When useing the Zip tie method, First check the timming by ensuring the cam flats are in line with a straight edge. this is to ensure that there is no chain stretch. then rotate the engine with a ratchet until one of the exhaust cams has all of its valves fully closed. When the exhaust cam is in this position with all valves closed the cam will be under no pressure at all and when unbolted will simply lift of very easily.
I read lots of threads regarding broken cams and cams getting jamed, but this will not happen if the cam is rotated to the exact spot where all the valves are closed at the same time.
I also removed the fuel pump relay prior to starting any work. and then turned engine over to restrict fuel. on completing the instalation of the tensioners I then turned the engine over several times with the relay still removed so oil pressure would fill up in the tensioners prior to starting the engine. if not the chains can jump on start up.
hope this helps in conjuntion with the information you read up on.

best wishes

steven

 

The front timing cover bolts are the correct 'short-bolt' length. You could 'borrow' 4 and use them for the tensioners and then replace them with the longer bolts with a spacer or washers until replacements are ordered/received.

They are easier to replace when they are on the outside of the engine.

just a thought.

bob gauff