Got the electric fans out of the car while I replace the radiator hoses for preventive maintenance. Meanwhile, the serpentine belt looks good, and though I bought a replacement belt, I am not about to replace it if it does not need to be done. There is no fraying whatsoever on the existing belt and I hear no squeaking, etc. while driving the car.

The car just turned 84k. Thinking of skipping this job but keeping the spare belt in the trunk in case of an emergency.

Can I skip this replacement based on a satisfactory appearance of the existing belt?

 

You have a stretch indicator on the tensioner to indicate the time to replace. If you look down at the tensioner you will see the pointer and I think 3 hash marks to gauge when to replace.

 

Theyre a 100k, streatched, cracked, or noisy when cold those are your replacement cues

 

Does preventative maintenance mean anything to anyone?

 

That is often a strange term to many!

 

...easier to change it now than 'in an emergency'

I would install it and have peace of mind for the next 75-100k miles. :

 

I also would replace it. My PM recommendation to my customers and my own practice is to replace belts, hoses earlier then keep the old units for emergency spares.

It is less frequent to see a serpentine belt actually break like the old V-belts did, but they still can. Getting those last extra miles out is not really worth it especially since everything is driven from one belt.

If the belt does break, you're dead stalled at that location until it is replaced. With the old spare in the trunk, I can replace a broken belt on side of the road in minutes.

 

Second the recommendation for preventive maintenance, replace and keep the old as a spare.
Many years ago my family was travelling through west Texas on US 90 in the heat of summer and lost a fan belt on an old flat head Ford engine (fifty miles to the next town), my father used a rope to fashion a fan belt, we would get about 10-15 miles before stopping to tigthen the rope. I can't imagine being able to do the same thing with a serpentine belt.

 

Now, that's creative.

 

A ford flathead V8?! Whoa, how old are you, 70? 80?

 

Can you do this without a jack, and without removing the radiator hoses? How much of a PITA is it to loosen/tighten the tensioner?

 

Not a problem! All you need is a tool to take the tension off and most important is how it goes back on. No jack required!

 

Could not find an FAQ on how to do it. All I need is a wrench? What about re-tensioning the tensioner?

 

All you need is a socket or a wrench to attach to the tensioner to enable the removal and install of the new belt. The tensioner is spring loaded and will return to normal operation if it is working properly.
http://www.gusglikas.com/AutoRepairBeltTensioner.htm

 

You should be prepared to change the pulley on the tensioner and maybe the idler pulley as well. the idler pully can be replaced with a coniderably cheaper part from another manufacturer (toyota part i believe) but you can search that.

 

FYI - the tensioner and idler pulley bearings are easily repacked with grease. They come very dry and fail early because of that, but if you catch them in time, just lift the bearing seal, clean and I repack with a high temp wheel bearing grease then press the seal back in place. I've not had one fail after repacking.

Same with newer BMWs, BTW.

 

My belt sounds like a loud cricket when the jag starts up. I have 63K miles on my 02. I am going to attempt this fix tomorrow. I like the idea of repacking the bearings with grease. Is it difficult? Doesn't sound difficult but one never knows...

 

No, not difficult at all. After removing the pulley, take a look at either side - back, or front after the bolt has been removed. You'll see a black rubber ring sandwhiched between the inner and outer race. Use a very small jeweler's flat blade screw driver to lift the black seal at the outer race end. This seal is actually metal with a rubber coating. Try not to distort it too much, but you might find that it bends a little. This is OK, just gently straighten it back again by hand (don't hammer it).

Once you take one or both black seals off the bearing will be exposed and everything else will probably be obvious. Use a brake cleaner to clean the bearing. I repack with high temp disc wheel bearing grease. Don't go overboard with grease. Too full and it'll expand with heat and push out the seal. When through packing just snap the black seal(s) back in place. Make sure the outer edge is tucked back in around the entire circumference....You're good to go...probably for the life of the car, if that is not a notorious thing to say given "seal for Life" BS.

Sometimes the "cricket" can be eliminated by reversing the belt (install it backwards), or installing a new one. Cheaper belts seem to be the worst.

 

I just replaced the serpentine belt and thought I would share my experiences to cut down on the learning curve.

If you are replacing just the belt and have no intention of changing the tensioner or the idler this is a very easy process.

Take your 15mm socket and hook it up to the black wheel on the tensioner. (View Gus' diagram). The bolt is reverse threaded. Push counter clockwise with a somewhat substantial amount of force and the tensioner spring will give allowing slack in the belt. While pushing slide the belt off the tensioner (towards the front of the car). Using Gus' diagram put the new belt on. Again push the tensioner to slide the belt on.

I am posting this so you don't do what I did which was take the idler off and take the tensioner off. It allowed for me to have a greater understanding of how it works but it took some extra time.

Also, my local auto parts store (NAPA and Kragen) did not carry the belt. The dealer wanted to charge $116. The belt can be found online for around $35.

Thanks Gus for the diagram!

 

No problem! Always a pleasure to help….