Hi Forum
both door speakers are not working all 4 of them, the dashboard ones work and so does the woofer in the rear, I have checked the fader/balance etc on the control unit, would like pointer before I start ripping stuff out to search for problem

 

Do not know what system you have but if you look at fig 16.1 – 16.3 it will give you the locations of the connectors back to the head unit.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1999.pdf

 

Sorry Gus my fault lack of info again, it has alpine speakers well at the tops of the doors and the book for the system says jjm 10 03 14/00 not sure if this is any help.
scott

 

That's a little odd insofar as l think the dash speakers are on the same channel as the door speakers.

 

I guess this little black box is something to do with a phone located in the boot,i puuled the plugs on the amp and put them back in but still no sound from door speakers, I guess I will have to remove head unit

 

Half and half. Each dash speaker (squawker?) shares the same channel as the door tweeter. The main speaker has its own.

Hampshire, are you handy with a multimeter?


Mike

 

Hi mike I do have a meter but not really know what to do with it ...lol I took head unit out and had it playing and disconnected the yellow plug (in pic) and was still getting sound from the speakers that work...strange as I thought that would have been the speaker socket but someone has fiddled with a white wire and not too sure what its for perhaps part of a phone kit?

 

You asked about how to use the meter:

(see section 16.3 as per Gus' recomendation), the tweeter (sail shaped Alpine speaker enclosure at top of windows) and the fascia speaker are fed on the same wire from the amplifier. The tweeter has a capacitor that prevents signals lower than about 6000hz from coming to it.

Since these are in parellel you can check both speakers with your meter.

Pull the black tweeter plastic enclosure outwards to release it. It will hang from a wire. Take a look and see one wire goes to a capacitor, the other to the speaker terminal.

How to use your meter to test? Measure the resistance (ohms) across each speaker terminal. Speakers are typically 4 to 8 ohms. Blown speakers or speakers with open wires will measure infinite resistance (no reading shows on some meters).

Let's look at your two speakers:

Key out of car; Set your meter to ohms. Place one probe on the wire connected to the small speaker's terminal. Place the other probe on the wire that goes to the capacitor. You should see a reading of about 4 ohms. Since these two speakers are in parrellel, and you have probe #2 on the wire side of the capacitor (instead of the speaker side) you are measuring the resistance of the speaker in the dashboard (think that this is what fascia means).

How to test Tweeter? Put the probes on each of the tweeter's terminals. You see Capacitors block dc current, thats why I'm using the probe position to isolate each of the 2 speakers. Your meter can not measure "ohms" through the capacitor (technically it can but it is irrellevent to our discussion).

this does not get you to the in door speaker, You will have to unscrew it and double check. When you get to it, gently push the cone in, does it move freely? It should. If it is rough or frozen - new speaker needed. Measure resistance across the terminals, expect 4 to 8 ohms. Worry if you get less than 2 ohms or more than 12.

I see you took the radio out, I'm not suggesting you measure from there because with your premium sound, the signal goes to the amplifier, then to the speakers.
Hope this helps you get to the bottom of it mate. John

 

Cheers for the info john...still a bit confused as to why the sound continues after I have pulled the big yellow plug of the back of the unit which is where the sound is sent to amp before it goes to speakers...Think I might call the jag CHRISTINE as it appears to have a mind of its own...lol

 

l thought the head unit to amp connection was via the black din plug (connector IC8) On premium setup this goes to amp while the same cable runs to cd changer on standard system.

 

yeah could be I guess...I did not realize there were speakers in the rear quarters as well and these don't work either.

 

The speakers in the rear quarters are sub woofers so you don't get typical sound from them. Try adjusting the SW setting up on the radio.

 

There are 9 speakers in the coupe:
Subwoofer
R & L rear quarter. midrange (subs only in convertible)
R & L door speakers midrange
R & L dash (fascia) 'squawkers'
R & L door 'tweeters'
The crossover circuits are in the power amp.

One of the multilocks on the rear of the head unit feeds audio to the power amp, the other is for the power to the head end, phone, lighting, speed control etc. Odd that you managed to remove one and still have it playing.

This could be a bit of a journey as it sounds as if someone may already have been in there. It could be:

Power amp channels out
Blown speakers
Wiring
Head unit (IMO least likely at this point)
A failed repair
..or worst-case, a combination of any and all above

Check your PM

Mike

 

Wiring diagrams show premium system audio from head unit to amp is by way of ic8/8 way alpine not multilock. ic19 12 way white multilock only carries audio out on standard system while ic8 changes function to cd changer link.

 

Hi Baxtor,
I don't see that:



shows IC8 serial link between CD/Head & multilock IC14 head-> PA

??? Tis JTIS, mind.

 

OP says he has alpine system which differs on some of those connections.

 

That doesn't show until the 2000 JTIS.

Thanks for the correction.

Mike

 

Got to the bottom of it....4 speakers were knackered so replaced and all ok now...

 

I appreciate the follow-up. Sounds like a good out one. BTW, love that word knackered, don't hear that one much over here ��.John

 

Exactly... that's why I like watching "Wheelers and Dealers" because of the way they say things and some of the words they use...