Last week I had two random stalls, when I started the car the engine idled briefly and Died out. Today I drove to get my oil changed and the battery died while in the bay. The car was cranking but wouldn't turn over. Eventually it died and we had to jump it. After giving it a second battery it still wouldn't start so we started swapping relays in the passenger relay box. One of them appears to have done the trick and the car started. I drove the car home and shut it off. Short drive. I immediately tried to restart the car and got my initial symptoms, engine cranked fine but died out immediately.

No codes are present

 

After you crank it and it does not start, press the schrader valve on the fuel injector rail with a small screwdriver within a couple of minutes. Have a rag handy. If you do not get a strong squirt of fuel, your fuel pump is probably bad.

 

Thank you, I will test in 5 hours after work.

Does it make any sense that the only time the pump is failing is if it is just started? Its never cut out while driving, which I expect would require the pump to work harder.

 

well the schrader valve test is somewhat inconclusive... I jumped in the car, it wouldn't start. I went inside to get a screwdriver to depress the schrader valve and it spit out nothing. elapsed time maybe 3 minutes.

I went back in and attempted to start the car again and this time it fired up. Twice. Went round and pressed the schrader valve and it spit gas.

I must have an intermittent pump failure, or relay...

I pulled the subwoofer out about 3 years ago to go aftermarket in the trunk; by removing the cover I can easily see the pump. It is super quiet. I remember putting insulation on it way back when because it used to have a high frequency whine/ whistle.

Im not quite sure what to make of the intermittent failure.

 

http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...ec%20Guide.pdf

useful guide for entire xk8 electrical system (year 2000)

 

It is probably the pump...they can fail intermttently. You said you have alreay swapped the relays, and the relays do not fail often anyway.

When you go in, be sure to check the wires feeding the pump inside the tank carefully. there is an electrical filter molded on them and these can also fail or go intermittent.

 

having a hell of a time getting the tank free. I've removed the two straps but I cant get it to pull backwards at all. I was gonna try and go in thru the subwoofer port

 

On the coupe the subwoofer port is the way to go.

 

it looks like part of the wiring harness was in the way, also have to undo the filler from the body...

I'm siphoning out about 5 gallons now. Something unsettling about trying to release the pump with my hand submerged in gasoline.

 

Is it safe to splice and solder the wires that are inside the tank? I have the pump removed and sitting on a bench. The lead wires for the new pump need to be spliced to the inlet wire that pass thru the evap seal/ top of tank plate.

My question is: is it safe to solder the wires and heatwrap them, when they are going to be installed submerged in gas?

 

It is easiest to use a replacement pump with a compatible connector so you do not have to splice.

I assume the wires are your replacement pump are of a gasoline resistant material. Soldering is not an issue. Standard polyolefin heatshrink might last a while but eventually degrade in gasoline, so a fuel resisant heatshrink made of teflon or other fuel resistant material is a better bet.

 

I replaced the pump and it wouldn't start the first time around. It was a 5-15 year old battery that had been drained trying to start the car with no fuel.

I got a huge scare when it wouldn't turn over and it said PECUS on the message screen. I attempted to jump the car from the old battery, + new one and got no change.

I then removed the old battery completely and installed the new one and got an immediate start. The engine is purring like a kitten now.

I am going to keep my fingers crossed for the next few weeks though...

p.s. there was one part of the project I had to mickey mouse. Inside the fuel tank the pump's bracket mounts to a baffle via a single sheet metal screw. I didn't have enough room to get the screw back in so I took copper wire and looped the two together. It will allow probably 1-2" of movement on the pump...