Steering Wheel Reach Malfunction
#1
Steering Wheel Reach Malfunction
I normally leave the steering column in the manual mode, but two nights ago while fumbling to find the instrument illumination switch, I turned the steering switch to auto. On shut down the wheel tilted up and away. Yesterday on start, the wheel tilted down but did not extend to the expected position and the manual adjustment made noises but did not move the wheel. Even worse, the wheel is not fixed in any position, but will move in and out with a modest amount of pressure.
The switch and motor sound like they work, but it seems something mechanical is not functioning correctly.
Any experiences or thoughts about this?
Thanks
Andy
The switch and motor sound like they work, but it seems something mechanical is not functioning correctly.
Any experiences or thoughts about this?
Thanks
Andy
#2
You either broke a little spring shaft or stripped the nylon gear it drives. Common problem. Dealer solution is to replace the entire column. You can remove the reach drive motor and replace the small shaft which looks like a 4" speedometer drive cable. Coventry West had a bunch made up.
If the nylon gear stripped you are going to have to replace the drive unit. No one has come up with a way to repair that item.
If the nylon gear stripped you are going to have to replace the drive unit. No one has come up with a way to repair that item.
#3
The plastic/nylon gear has likely stripped as test point stated.
I would suggest a replacement column from a savage yard.
When the reach position sensor fails, the drive motor does NOT know when to stop and something usually breaks. The cheapest thing is the short drive cable. You can find them on the interweb for about $50.
The X300, X308 and X100 columns are similar and use many of the same components but they are different enough to not be interchangeable without modification.
bob
I would suggest a replacement column from a savage yard.
When the reach position sensor fails, the drive motor does NOT know when to stop and something usually breaks. The cheapest thing is the short drive cable. You can find them on the interweb for about $50.
The X300, X308 and X100 columns are similar and use many of the same components but they are different enough to not be interchangeable without modification.
bob
#4
Thanks Test Point and Bob for your helpful posts.
In the interim I discovered your contributions to this thread on the XJ8 with the same problem:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...a-17191/page2/
Post 32 indicates, as you do above, that if it was just the cable, the column would be frozen, but since it can move back and forth, it is likely the gears inside the column. As you know, it is difficult to see up into the area where the reach motor is mounted, so I am not sure how the motor and drive cable are configured. I can see the motor body itself, and it seems like the end towards the steering wheel is where the wires are and I can see and feel the end of the shaft turning at the lower end (towards the front of the car) which also has a recess in it, which might fit a cable...but there is no drive cable there, nor is it obvious where the other end of the drive cable would go. Where is the drive cable situated?
Thanks again
Andy
In the interim I discovered your contributions to this thread on the XJ8 with the same problem:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...a-17191/page2/
Post 32 indicates, as you do above, that if it was just the cable, the column would be frozen, but since it can move back and forth, it is likely the gears inside the column. As you know, it is difficult to see up into the area where the reach motor is mounted, so I am not sure how the motor and drive cable are configured. I can see the motor body itself, and it seems like the end towards the steering wheel is where the wires are and I can see and feel the end of the shaft turning at the lower end (towards the front of the car) which also has a recess in it, which might fit a cable...but there is no drive cable there, nor is it obvious where the other end of the drive cable would go. Where is the drive cable situated?
Thanks again
Andy
#5
Appears that the complete drive unit is not that unreasonably priced:
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
My reach operation quit also but it is not movable and not in an inconvenient position so most likely the cable which I have in hand, just not the motivation to repair it at the moment.
SNG Barratt - The Ultimate Jaguar Parts Specialist
My reach operation quit also but it is not movable and not in an inconvenient position so most likely the cable which I have in hand, just not the motivation to repair it at the moment.
#6
Test Point:
Thanks for that link. But that is a link to the reach motor and it seems to me that my motor itself appears to work. I cannot see where the drive cable goes, nor am I sure where the drive cable connects to the steering column.
Also, Bob suggests that the problem is most likely in the steering column, so how would changing the motor fix this?
I am not clear at all as to how this all works. In the interim, as a very crude short term solution to stop the column from going in and out, I have installed a hose clamp to inhibit its motion, but I would like a proper fix at some point.
Thanks
Andy
Thanks for that link. But that is a link to the reach motor and it seems to me that my motor itself appears to work. I cannot see where the drive cable goes, nor am I sure where the drive cable connects to the steering column.
Also, Bob suggests that the problem is most likely in the steering column, so how would changing the motor fix this?
I am not clear at all as to how this all works. In the interim, as a very crude short term solution to stop the column from going in and out, I have installed a hose clamp to inhibit its motion, but I would like a proper fix at some point.
Thanks
Andy
#7
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...62/#post247733
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4470nautilus
the information on dropping the wheel ( worked perfectly) new problem.
After getting to the steering wheel reach motor I found the problem was not the motor or the reach cable , it is the nylon busing that the metal screw shaft spins through. It is striped and allows the shaft to spin and the column to be puled and pushed in and out ... Anyone have any suggestions on how to repair this?
Thanks for you previous information it was perfect...
no problem bruv, the widget does this, you'll have to find a breaker or order from the friendly local Jag agent parts department, I don't know of a fix.
__________________
This post re-inforces the need for a new steering column. Wishful thinking would have me try an easier solution, but probably futile.
Andy
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4470nautilus
the information on dropping the wheel ( worked perfectly) new problem.
After getting to the steering wheel reach motor I found the problem was not the motor or the reach cable , it is the nylon busing that the metal screw shaft spins through. It is striped and allows the shaft to spin and the column to be puled and pushed in and out ... Anyone have any suggestions on how to repair this?
Thanks for you previous information it was perfect...
no problem bruv, the widget does this, you'll have to find a breaker or order from the friendly local Jag agent parts department, I don't know of a fix.
__________________
This post re-inforces the need for a new steering column. Wishful thinking would have me try an easier solution, but probably futile.
Andy
Trending Topics
#8
You have to take the instrument pack out to get at two bolts holding the upper column to the bulkhead, once they're out you can lower the column and swap the reach motor.
To get the Inst. Pack out, pull on the surround towards you gripping between gauges, it should release the clips and come out towards you, push the trip and fog switch packs down and unclip the wiring behind them.
Undo the 4 screws with a magnetic Phillips and take the black plastic cluster surround out.
Disconnect the two cables on the bottom of the instrument cluster, pulling the tabs.
the column should be fully lowered. Do this first then drop the neg cable on the battery. Then take the air bag off, look behind the steering wheel, there's two torx bolts holding the air bag onto the wheel, rock the wheel left and undo one, then repeat the other way for the second one.
Take the instrument pack out and you'll see the bracket and two bolts. Undo the undertrays then undo the two bracket bolts and lower the column. It should take less than an hour to do including swapping the motor. The looms underneath the upper column are idiot proof, unclip them they go back only in the corresponding female parts.
To get the Inst. Pack out, pull on the surround towards you gripping between gauges, it should release the clips and come out towards you, push the trip and fog switch packs down and unclip the wiring behind them.
Undo the 4 screws with a magnetic Phillips and take the black plastic cluster surround out.
Disconnect the two cables on the bottom of the instrument cluster, pulling the tabs.
the column should be fully lowered. Do this first then drop the neg cable on the battery. Then take the air bag off, look behind the steering wheel, there's two torx bolts holding the air bag onto the wheel, rock the wheel left and undo one, then repeat the other way for the second one.
Take the instrument pack out and you'll see the bracket and two bolts. Undo the undertrays then undo the two bracket bolts and lower the column. It should take less than an hour to do including swapping the motor. The looms underneath the upper column are idiot proof, unclip them they go back only in the corresponding female parts.
And to think . . . I had the instrument panel out to install The Jaguar Wrangler's temperature gauge. I could have slipped the little cable in at that time.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
FS[UnitedKingdom]: 1997 Daimler Six Manual for sale - Needs work but Very Rare!
HerWorseHalf
PRIVATE For Sale / Trade or Buy Classifieds
0
04-07-2016 12:17 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)