Yes, all from the top. Easiest is to also unclip the hood/bonnet struts so you can put that one upright. Release the belt with the tool, and then start the fiddly bit of getting the belt out. It may require some tries, but once the belt is vertical between the pulleys, you can push it out with your fingers. I can do this within 5 minutes (includes pulley change), and 10 minutes of the engine is hot...

 

Avos...sorry, I forgot to ask, but can you change the other drive bet this same way? If I do the supercharger belt I would like to change the other belt at the same time...Thanks!!!

 

Actually not, its easier, you just take it off ;-)

 

Thanks Avos...do you think there is any harm in NOT changing the idler and tensioner to the new style??

 

Not really. As long as everything is aligned nicely, bearings replaced of the idlers, and you don't spill any coolant on the belt (which could cause belt tsjipring) you will be fine.

 

Thanks again for all the advice...
Craig

 

avos:
Thanks for your help! I have the upgraded SC belt and pulleys done by Jaguar under warranty. There is a TSB out because of belt squeaking when cold. This is a double sided ribbed belt. I can't find either belt anywhere? Can you help with a part number? I am having some belt chirp on hard acceleration and the belt has 30K miles or so on it. This is for a 2005 4.2 SC in my STR. Should be the exact same belt as used on the XKR??

Jaguar part number for the belt is either C2C-37063 or C2C-37055. When the work was done both belts where changed along with a bracket, tensioner and idler pulley. JTB #00045 is listed on the repair order.

I was hoping to replace both belts with an improved Gatorback or Gates belt and not use the Jaguar belt.
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2 years back I was searching for different sizes double sided belts, and didn't find any, so can't help you here.

Chirp under hard acceleration is odd though, not sure what it can be other than possible belt slip, or bearings from pulleys?

Try to locate from where it comes, I know this might be tough as there is less space to work in on the STR, but at least you will know where to focus on.

 

It is very likely that the chirping you hear is not the belt but the transmission. A common problem with the 6HP26 ZF tranny. There is a sticking E clutch with the wrong friction modifier in the fluid. It is fixable with a friction modifier from the dealer.

I have changed the SC belt without removing anything as well, just takes some wrigling. Removing the fans would help, but I am always antsy moving stuff near the radiator tubes. It takes a serpentine belt tool to get the tensioner pressure off.

 

Does anyone have part #'s for MY04 XKR ? Thanks

 

I know you posted this almost 10 years ago but you saved me a lot of work, thank you.

 

I have a tensioner release tool that I bought and used it to change my belts without removing the radiator etc. I have sold this car and I will sell the tool if anyone is interested. I think I paid almost 100 bucks for it but I’ll sell it for around 50 or best offer as I have no need for it now. Just email me at cmurtha@comporium.net if interested. Thanks

 

My headline is deceiving because I struggled for 2 days trying different sockets, sizes and cutting skin in the process due to the tight space.
The solution I leave for other self help warriors like me: buy a $18.99 serpentine belt tool kit at Harbor Freight. Or check out the image and find same product elsewhere and pay more. Use the smaller of the 2 bars - has wider square bit. Lower bar to the right of the tensioner - towards fender. In this angle the smaller bar can be horizontal approaching the square hole in the tensioner (it’s below the round hole that’s barely visible). You’ll find the tool’s square adapter goes in easily vs approaching directly from top. Once almost in move bar upward to lock in. It does wiggle once mated. Then connect 1/2’ adapter of the longer bar to the smaller bar- yes they connect! Giving you a longer bar for leverage to easily move the tensioner anti-clockwise. Pull off belt from top- supercharger pulley. And undo rest. To remove- the 2 min job or some mins more, you’ll need to turn the belt 90 degrees or vertical as opposed to its horizontal positioning to squeeze it behind the pulley and the serpentine belt pathway.

No need to remove hinge shocks - lean over from fender (with protection blanket) and use supercharger flat surface to lean your elbow.

I’m passing on after reading all the above posts and drama stories. Once this belt is out the serpentine belt is relatively easy as the tensioner has a traditional bolt type (13mm?) allowing any torque wrench.

 

Another great option but more expensive is the Gearwrench #3680D. About $50 depending on where you get it. Has a nice case to keep all the loose stuff organized.
I prefer it after struggling to use the HF one. It has a ratcheting wrench which makes thing a lot easier! Plus several more sizes that are sometimes needed. But either tool makes quick work on serpentine belts with zero room for a conventional ratchet.

Hard to believe how easy and quick it can be after trying to use conventional wrenches. Another tool I needed but did not know about!
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