Hi I have replaced the pipe and seals on the EGR when I changed it recently. the noise is coming from fuel rail area when we listened with a engine statoscope.

but yes I agree good suggestion as I did have a small hole in my old one.

 

Scan tool XL the diagnostic man has the jag software and agreed with my findings.


Peter

 

this is an easy fix that i once used in a laboratory; it is rather permanent and CHEAP. It is ideal to do this in place as shape will be locked in, but if removed make sure to not bend the piece. these crap tubes are made this way in the absence of a custom made part for the application, bend to fit on assembly. the cracks always form on the low part, the bottom of the v of the bend, not the high rounded outer edge. what you do is obtain some high temperature epoxy that spreads smooth. it is ideal if you sand out the v's, but carburetor cleaner works well. remember that sanding can only be done in place to prevent shape change. sand before you remove. using a rubber body filler squeegee wiping in the direction of the grooves, give a thin fill to all v's in the tube. wait until it cures and do it again until you just see the round high parts of the bellows. if you want to make it nicer and protect the high spots, do a final coat with a wrap of something fibrous or foil tape which looks nice. will never leak again.

as a bonus, when it is necessary to do this on plastic bellows tubes, use that flex-seal rubber compound. the new liquid duct tape now comes in cans so you can brush it on. yes, i have a replacement part, but will save it for originality and fix my old one when the time comes.

 

Great Idea I think something like quick steal would work great for this type of repair.

I have used this to patch exhausts in the past as it resists oil, fuel and high temperatures.

You can shape it then smooth off nicely with a wet finger (I would advise gloves though).

Peter

 

So I stripped my intake, supercharger, intercoolers, fuel rail and inlet manifold,

I sent my injectors off for a flow test and clean they gained 5% efficiency increase on 4 of the units and found all 8 lower seals failing. (rounded up some of the escaped horses)

The intake manifold bolts were only finger tight.

It must have been stripped in the past as all the seals looked quite new except the seals on the fuel rail 6 of them were leaking.

I just have to put it all back together now.

Does any one have the spec sheet for how tight the bolts should be?

 

Not in the workshop manual? (Free download.)

 

Just what are fuel trims? I'm not embarrassed to ask.

 

See articles on the site / google...

Been around for about 30 years.

 

'I sent my injectors off for a flow test '

Did you use the special tools to get them out? or if not, what was your technique as all I manage to do is break off the tab

 

I used two flat bladed screw drivers one on the left side and one on the right there is a small slot you can put the blade of the driver in on each side of the injector. then levered down on the fuel rail to lift them straight up they came out easy and undamaged.

putting them in I used a o2 sensor socket and a cloth to protect my hand and pressed as hard as I could down (I used two blocks of wood to support the fuel rail) and rocked the injector as a pressed down they all went back in with out damage.

I can take some pics of how I did it if you like as I still have not built it all back up.

 

Its complicated one took me ages to work out, they basically keep the fuel to air mixture at a set ration as the power demand changes in layman's terms.

You can check them to help diagnose a faults.