I'm getting a Suspension Fault message that is constant. No other fault messages. The suspension is stiff. My CATS shocks are fairly new, so I am certain that is not the issue. My code reader isn't picking up any codes, unsurprisingly.

I'm going to check with a multimeter the shock wires. Anything else I should check before splurging on an ebay CATS module?


I unplugged the module in the boot to stop seeing that warning message but the suspension sure is stiff when it's not working.

 

I took it out for a spirited drive to see what stiff mode is like. The car takes corners significantly better. Handling feels tighter. I wonder if this is how it was supposed to be around corners? The ride isn't as punishing as I initially thought it would be. In fact, I got used it quickly and do not find myself in a hurry to fix it. I'm almost tempted to leave it this way.

But, the thought that is nagging at the back of my head is, could the system have been having worn-out accelerometers causing slowness in adjusting the rebound?

Is leaving the module unplugged and leaving the suspension in stiff mode likely to cause something else to break?

 

The lack of codes doesn’t surprise me, l had a hard time just communicating with my module using both IDS and an icarsoft reader. I even acquired another module via Ebay but it was same. I eventually got to communicate via icarsoft after a firmware update. Both modules good.
You can check most of the system simply by checking electrical guide stated values at module by way of multi meter.

 

Oh boy, electrical guides are the bane of my existence. I can't make heads or tails of them when I try to read one. That being said, where can I download the electrical guide for the XKR?

 

Gus's jagrepair.com has a treasure trove of resources.
If you do download your guide Gian, be aware there are two sections, the wiring diagram as commonly recognised and separately detailed connector, pinout and active and inactive expected line readings.

 

no

 

I need help figuring out how to test this. I tested continuity at the wiring harness for the module.

I disconnected the module, key in II position, engine not started. I put the multimeter in Ohms settings. Black lead on harness pin, red pin to ground (a bolt in the chassis). The only ones that did not read 0 or close were the ones labeled for the shock absorbers, according to the wiring diagram:

These read significantly above 0 in continuity.
NW (27), 32 O, 33 GU, 34 OY, as well as 1 YR (fault signal) and R (13).

I'm supposed to believe all 4 shock absorbers are bad? That makes no sense to me. They are barely a couple years old with less than 10k miles on them. And all 4 of them? I think I did something wrong


Here's a picture of the inards of the control module. Looks intact to me.

 

Most of what you are probing are pairs, you want to check continuity of the pair so no chassis ground is involved. You need to check the pinouts of each pair and then probe each ie red probe on pin 30 black on 31 for LH front damper for example.
For the simple wiring check key can be off.
pics are from my 2000 guide but still similar to yours.

 

Oh ok, that makes a lot more sense. So I just need to figure out the pairs and probe them.

If any of the pairs fails the continuity test, then whatever it's for is the culprit? But what if all the pairs pass the test, is that when the module is the suspected of being bad?

In a pair of pins, does it matter which one gets the positive or negative lead?

 

which probe goes on which does not matter. Continuity will weed out a bad pair or even damper but the accelerometers will probably need to be checked for their stated values. If you can find a cheap module and don't mind possibly ending up with a spare, just change it out and see if system performance changes.

 

which probe goes on which does not matter. Continuity will weed out a bad pair or even damper but the accelerometers will probably need to be checked for their stated values. If you can find a cheap module and don't mind possibly ending up with a spare, just change it out and see if system performance changes.
I did make up a pigtail assembly to power and ground the relevant pins to bypass module and restrict the dampers to soft setting but other than testing l never had to use it.

 

I did find a module at a reasonable price, so I ordered it because I guess it doesn't hurt to have a spare. Hopefully that fixes it.

 

Update: Problem solved.

The replacement module arrived. I installed it and the Suspension Fault message did not return.

 

Can my old module be repaired so that I can have it as a spare? Looking at it, I can't tell what's wrong with it.

 

l would be surprised if repair was cheaper than replacement. They seem to be readily available for reasonable price.

 

I'm thinking that may not always be the case.

 

At which point people will start repairing them if they have to - it's unlikely the fault on your old unit is repairable now, but won't be in 10 years time.