I know this subject has many great write ups but thought I would seek a little advice before jumping into the deep end of the pool.


I am about to dive in with both feet and change my secondary tensioner's as a preventative measure. The car runs great with no codes but I don't sleep well knowing I have a grenade in the engine and I don't have a hold on the pin.

I bought a kit on line that included the required gaskets, tensioner's, and replacement secondary chains with master links.

My goal is to avoid removing the gear that would be required to change the chain due to the additional specialty tool requirements.

If a lock down the cams on the flats as suggested in all of the write ups I have read on this site and then cut the original chain out, replace the tensioner, install new chains, remove the clip that locks the tensioner collapsed for installation will I have any timing issues?

Everywhere I read it says to lock down the crank with the drop in bit after removing crank shaft sensor. Do I still need to do that step if cutting the old chain out and installing new chain with master link? What would cause the crank to move if I am not wrenching on the sprocket to get it removed? Wouldn't the primary chain lock the cam and crank in place? This is an XK8 with the VVT (1998 with 80k miles)

Thanks in advance for any advice or links that might tell me what I need to be careful with.

Barry

 

Why are you replacing the chains? Are they defective?

Why don't you do the "zip tie" method and lift the exhaust cam to replace the tensioners, then you will not have any timing issues you did not have before you started.
Vector

 

I was worried about breaking the Cam shaft in the process but I agree that the tie wrap method seems to make the most sense but I am still a little Leary of turning a 6 hour job into a huge repair bill if I screw something up

 

If you rotate the engine (using the bolt on the harmonic balancer) before removing the camshaft so none of the cams are depressing valves, the camshaft will come out with relative ease.

Personally I would be more comfortable with your 80K mile chain in a well maintained engine than some unknown aftermarket chain with a master link (nothing against master links, but I would be wary unless you know you bought a high quality aftermarket part).

One final note, that has been mentioned but never emphasized enough: Before starting up the engine, crank it with the fuel pump and ignition fuses removed to bring up the oil pressure. If you just start the engine without doing this, you run a real risk of jumping a sprocket or worse until the new hydraulic tensioners pressurize.

 

+1 on above. I agree.

 

If my car skipped a tooth, how do I reset the timing as I am going to do tensioners and chains along with the guides, plugs, coils, water pump, ect.

thanks in advance.

 

The quick answer is to lock the flex plate with the lock tool, that will leave the intake cams properly aligned assuming that the primary chains have not been affected. Loosen the bolts holding the exhaust cam sprockets and use the alignment tool bolted down to align those cams. Tighten the exhaust cam sprocket bolts.

See how easy that is!

Lots and lots more information in the FAQ sticky . . . even pictures.

 

Hi
Here is the weblink to forum thread that has some of the best Timing Chains forum threads listed (with referenced post numbers and weblinks):

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ch-info-58793/

Look at post# 1.

Jim Lombardi