And don't forget to buy the shorter mounting bolts for the new tensioners.

 

The following thread shows how I did it with the zip tie method. Also shows how to solve a couple of difficult problems. Very streight forward if you are careful and don't get in a hurry. Contact me PM if you need help.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ics-how-52653/

 

Just want to encourage you to go for it. I used the cam positioning tools and found the job pretty straightforward for an non-mechanic ( I'm a doctor, Jim, not a mechanic!). Getting the covers off is half the battle. There are lots of suppliers for parts, go with Ford Lincoln LS/TBird and as Paul said, you need the shorter bolts that go with them. You'll save lots of money DIY and it could actually be fun if you're not in a hurry.

 

I really appreciate your replies guys... Over the next few days I'm gonna pick out the gaskets and tensioners then have a go. There's a Lincoln dealership 1 mile from me.

I have the Jag Tech disk so I will have to read those instructions parallel to the zip tie method to sort out the differences... I will upload a big pic of the part once I get it out. It has a much larger crack in it than what else I've seen posted here.

 

Im kind of worried now, I replaced one tensioner and put in the new one but There is slack in the chain. I released the pin and it pushes on the bottom but there is lots of play in the top half of the chain.
In this picture I am lifting the chain about 1/4 "




In this picture I am pointing to a section where the chain is resting cockeye

 

You can't really tell the results until the Engine is running with Oil Pressure in the Tensioners.

The specific Cam Rotational Position can cause the Slack at this point in the procedure (due to Valve Spring Pressure).

 

It is probably fine, BUT there are two criitcal points:

-Make sure you did not swap left and right versions...they are different.

-Remember to crank the engine with the fuel injection relay removed before its first start. This is very important to allow the oil to pressurize the tensioners before the engine is started.

 

Am I correct in saying the right side (passenger) has the retaining pin at the bottom and the left (driver side) has the pin at the top?

I freaked out for a moment when I saw this guy's picture :
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...front-view-jpg

 

The Pic is correct, Right Side = Movable Shoe and Pin Down, and Left side = Movable Shoe and Pin Up.

As whiteXKR says, the tensioners are NOT interchangeable, they are marked L and R.

 

Did I forget to do this? or is this the role filled by the Thumbtack that comes with the tensioner

 

Yes. Same Thing.

 

She is up and running, I want to thank ALL of you for your advice and wisdom. I saved at LEAST $1,000 by following the instructions posted in the DIY section and here.





https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ion-faq-37415/

The above instructions were the most concise, easiest to follow however I would add two pieces of info to it: 1) The cam caps tension is 11 nm, the tensioners is 14. NOT 80N as said there. 2) Dont forget to remove the fuel inj relay as mentioned in this thread.

Also Dipstick bolt: cut it off with a dremel
Rear cover bolts use a 1/4 inch ratchet with a U joint. Bend the Aluminum heat shields 3/8ths or so to get clearance.
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I did get lucky in one area, One bank's exhaust cam was sitting proudly on the tip of the lobe at the 2nd cylinder. I was afraid to bump the starter as mentioned elsewhere to move it to a flat spot. I spent 45 mins this morning tightening the 10 cam cap bolts gradually to spread out the load.

 

Well done, enjoy a cold one now.