thats what I get for not proof reading again, youre correct. I was thinking about the "other" given formula for ever 100# of weight removed = .1 second faster in the quarter mile and merged my thoughts and fingers togewther. Here is a real interesting article from Kenne Bell about more than just coolant temp, but air inlet temps......
http://www.kennebell.net/techinfo/ge...AirWARNING.pdf

 

Doug, I think you're right. Didn't this start off as "where can I get...."? Try to give an answer and it turns into s**t real quick with no acknowledgement to people who try to respond with a solution.

 

Obviously, "brevity is the soul of wit" is a concept foreign to a few here. Something that might warrant a simple and to-the-point response engenders a treatise on the history of the internal combustion engine and a "look at how much I know" bloviation.

Doug

 

Humorous, but shallow. Mechanical issues usually aren't one-liner platitudes and it seems the complaint of being voluminous came up only after volumes of information by many posters contradicting the person now complaining who then - again - seems to revert to some degree of insults. Whatever.


The short response is that motorheads like to talk tech talk of mechanical aspects in great detail. Others don't.

The stats by Brutal and and premises of others are highly informative in terms of calculating potentials such as they may be. Nor a minor topic particularly on a boosted motor where heat is a real challenge and limitation. Many "cold air" kits really are only cold air with a open hood - claiming large dyno increases. But in reality with the hood down the both cost power and risk engine denotation damage. That is a message worth repeating to newbies because those "top of motor cold air kits" make good - but false - sales pitches.

In suggests, instead, opting for the larger intercooler and/or water/alcohol injection - though neither are cheap. But they do offer real Horsepower potentials.

I noticed the 13 degree lowing potential and converted the email address to a website address to see if it listed a lower temperature thermostat. It didn't. But any source potential information is very appreciated. Thank you.

Does the Lincoln use the same thermostat? Don't they use a down tuned version of the 4.2?

 

I think EuroToys has a low temp thermostat for the supercharged jags.

 

Oops! Forgot that was already posted. Newb mistake.

 

you can always drill the t stat also. matter of fact on normally aspirated cars that little check ball tends to cause the lower hose to suck flat when the engine cools down and eventually works its way off the t stat housing. I pop the brass check ball off every t stat and never have issues with overheating and flatening the lower hose. This is an old trick especially with higher hp cars on the street with substandard cooling..It bypasses a little coolant all the time, and keeps the t stat from creating a hi surge when it opens. If you monitor the coolant data stream you can find out where you are and "tune" the stocker. Cost is nada

 

Thanks for the effort. It wouldn't hurt to give them a call as they could search better than I.

 

That seems a very good idea. Thanks!

BTW, don't you worry just a little that a clogged NOS "wet" fuel line would cause your 400 hp NOSer to instantly melt your pistons? NOS is the ultimate $$ value in acceleration -but it is scary in potential damage. I've discounted NOS on the Jag or at least limiting it to the 50 to 75 hp range.

 

No, forged pistons, billets rods and I pull timing 2* per 50hp of spray. I used to sell NOS and refill bottles. I have run probobly 500#S Through the Sub, and maybe 200 through the race car without any problems

 

Any opinions on the Euro Toys LTD. thermostat??? Anyone with an install???

 

Just caught this thread.

I have drilled tstats in my cars, something I thought no one did, and something I wouldn't mention first without my umbrella opened LOL! Glad Brutal mentioned it first. Over and out!

 

I think we are all agreed that a cooler air intake is the bees knees. I would like to seperate the intercooler cooling fluid from the engines radiator and installing another dedicated radiator for the intercooler alone. Such a system would have it's own pump and thermostat. The question is where to get it? The set up does not seem to difficult if one can find an open spot in front of the engine radiator or air from under the car.
Ps: I tried Mina Gallery's "cool air intake" and had a huge loss of power, that sucker was pulled ASAP.

 

Probably because the so-called cool air intakes out there that I have seen all suck in hot air from the engine compartment!

Doug

 

There already is a dedicated radiator for the intercoolers with it's own pump. Have you not looked under the hood of your car? Why would you want a thermostat for the intercooling? You want the coolant constantly flowing; a thermostat closes when the coolant cools down. Totally opposite of what you want.

 

Looking at the diagrams, the engine and charge cooler radiators are joined at the hip like Siamese twins. There has to be heat bleed over from one to the other. A dedicated radiator with a thermostat would run much cooler but maintain a minimum and stable temperature in cold climes. Now, if I am reading the diagrams incorrectly, great, one less thing to worry about. However, it would be nice to drop the temperature of the charge cooler.

 

As an mec eng. I am surprised by the amount of incorrect info circulating ! On this issue many people seem to mix racing and non racing engine and think that opting for race operation with there engine will make things going better without realising that race engine life is not the important issue compare to the other choice the race team has to choose. Regarding the engine temp it is a trend that has introduce higher temp thru the years in order to improve the efficiency of the engine. When the cylinder walls are cooler more heat goes to water and end up to the radiator and energy that leave the cylinder do not push the piston .... wasting fuel and loosing power! Keeping intake air cold is obviously a good idea but over cooling the engine is not the proper way do achieve cold intake. Another point to keep in mind here is that the oil viscosity (multigrade oil) is designed to reach the proper viscosity at the engine operating temp that the engine has been designed to operate. Overcooling the engine therefore the oil diminished the oil protection agains wear. Another point in the aviation using piston engine it is well understand that in flight you operate your oil cooler to maintain a minimum oil temperature of 185F simply to allow to water to boil off the oil ( water vapour is evacuate by the breather) as fuel combustion produce water that end partially in the crankcase by the rings gas bypass. Overcooling the engine will limit the engine capability to keep oil dry . At 65 year I have memory of my first car that was running a thermostat of 165F to evolving with next cars to 185F and 195F ...!

 

Geez, I've changed enough thermostats in my life but I never knew they were so complicated.

 

It's only complicated when you think about it first...😁