I feel your pain, brother! I not only replaced my battery when I bought the car, I would up putting three alternators in it, due to the shoddy state of so many remanufactured parts these days. Hence my advising to double-check the voltage.

You scanner should have a "automatic" option and a "manual select" option. Within the manual section you should be able to select the different modules and read their codes and find out information about the module. If there are modules with which the scanner cannot communicate, then your problem may lie with that module.

If none of the above works, send me a message and we can pick a mutually agreeable weekend. We'll each bring our cars, and a gallon of gas, and we can have a nice bonfire and weenie roast!! I'm almost at the same point. I'm beginning to think mine is in need of an exorcist, and not a mechanic.

 

LOL. I just spoke to one of the guys at Bedard Automotive. I've taken other cars there to get the smog cert. He told me that Jaguars are "notorious" (his word) for being a pain in the *** to clear the monitors. He recommended using Orangethorpe in Yorba Linda to do the drive cycle because in that area there are no lights and you can actually get the car up to the speed and keep it for the required period of time and then just coast to a stop. I'm going to give that a try later on today or maybe even late at night. I really like the car, but . . . between this pain in the *** state's "smog" requirements and the absurd "drive cycle procedures" put in my Jaguar I'm really regretting I sold my '39 Chevy truck. If I ever do get this thing to clear smog it's going on the market as soon as I get home from DMV. I'm probably going to have to pay a late fee because I've had it now about 3 months and still can't get it registered because of this b/s.

You bring the dogs, I'll bring the beer!!!!

Joe

 

CA only cares about the money. If you pay the registration, they'll wait for as long as it takes for the smog. They won't send you the sticker until the smog test gets sent to them, but at least you avoid late fees. I had this problem on my '94 Mustang last time. Too many smog stations don't like to do OBD-I cars and my usual guy was tied up and I had to wait an extra week or so.

 

Ok, so I have all the error codes gone and now I have to go through the "drive cycles" again. I noticed in the "HEATED OXYGEN SENSORS MONITOR" which I'm thinking it the CAT monitor it states that for the upstream sensor you have to "drive the vehicle between 3000 – 4000 rpm in 3rd gear at a steady speed. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast to a stop within 30 seconds. Do not touch accelerator pedal for 4 seconds after coming to a stop." It does not indicate how long or for what distance you need to drive it between 3-4K. Anyone done this and get the monitor to clear? How long/far did you have to drive it?

It has the same type of instruction for the downstream sensors. First it says to drive at 30-60 mph for 10 minutes and then it says to "Drive the vehicle above 3000 rpm in 3rd gear at a steady speed. Lift foot completely off accelerator and coast for 30 seconds." Again, for how long/far do I do this?

I've written to iCarsoft regarding the issue and am waiting a response.

Since I'm told that the EVAP monitor does not have to be cleared for the CA smog test I'm just not going to worry about it.

Joe

 

The Heated O2 Monitor isn't the same as the CAT monitor. These cars use a heated upstream O2 sensor. There's a little electric heater built in that brings them up to temp faster. This monitor should set very quickly with just some minimal driving around. It just verifies that the heaters in the upstream sensors are working. The CAT monitor verifies that the converter is doing its job. This is the one that has to detect a temperature differential between upstream and downstream. I think only the US spec cars have these. And this is the one that might require some driving around.

 

The driving at steady speed and then coasting is for misfire detection but I gather you don't have a problem with the monitor for that or apparently any misfire codes, so I'd quit on that stuff.

The details of the CAT efficiency one are in the attached. With adequate cats I think it usually sets quickly.

As I mentioned, EVAP is a bit fussy about fuel (it's to avoid vapour and such) but sounds like you don't need it set.

I know all this is an absolute pain but Jaguar were fined by your government (or one of the states, probably CA lol) when they got things just a bit wrong so that says why it's like it is.

 

Morning Y2K,

Is there a "drive cycle procedure" for the CAT monitor? It can't just be driving around because I've done that for at least 400 miles and nada. I don't see anything in the document I have that specifically says it is a drive cycle to clear the CAT monitor.

Joe

 

Hey there JagV8,

Perhaps I'm confused. No, wait, there is no doubt about it. I'm VERY confused. Is this the "drive cycle procedure" to clear the CAT monitor?
Catalyst Efficiency Monitor Drive Cycle
1. Start engine and bring to normal operating temperature > 82 °C (180 °F).
2. Drive vehicle steadily between 1700 – 2500 rpm for 5 minutes.

As I've said, I've driven well over 400 miles and still had a CAT with the INC code.

Joe

 

Yes, that's the CAT drive cycle for most cars, broadly speaking. My 2001 and 2002 BMWs set their CAT monitor within 20 or 30 miles. As have most all OBD-2 cars I've owned.

The problem you have isn't with the drive cycle. The problem is likely a bad cat. The best thing you can do is to get the car hot, and then get under and measure the inlet and outlet temps on both cats. That's the "layman's" way of ballparking cat efficiency. If the cat is bad you can drive for thousands of miles (don't ask how I know this) and it won't set. You can't tell by the car's performance, you just find out the bad news when you go to smog it.

As I mentioned before, I'm struggling with the same issue, I just haven't had the time to go to the next step. I think I'll be able to do it this weekend. In my case, I suspect the RH cat. I replaced the upstream sensor to eliminate funky mixture codes, which went away, but now the cat monitor won't set. Same deal - drove hundreds of miles and nothing. I'm going to replace the downstream sensor this weekend. (I was getting cat inefficiency codes on my 2001 BMW, I replaced a suspect downstream sensor last weekend and the problem went away) I'll also toss in a bottle of "CRC Guaranteed to Pass" cleaner and see what happens. I really, really, hope I don't have to spring for a replacement cat.

The problem isn't related to Jag. I had this problem in spades with a Chevy I had. The PO blew a head gasket by overheating it, and then ran it for far too long while it burned coolant and damaged the cat. Same symptoms.

 

As the PDF says, it's how the car does the monitoring.

You may well have one or more bad cats. Hopefully you don't as you're not getting P0420/P0430.

You can check the various sensors it uses in case one is wrong. You can also check the cats (visually / temperature drop / etc) or maybe try the O2 extenders.

 

Well, I put in a container of Cataclean so maybe that will help. I don’t think I have the equipment to check the temperature of the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. However, I can get a full set for around $140 and, from what I’ve been able to find, I think I should have the tools I need to replace them. I’m going to try driving it for a bit and hook up the OBD2 and and see if the monitors clear.

joe

 

A full set for $140 seems far too cheap. Each of the upstream ones are more expensive than that, and the downstreams are in the $80 range each. What brand will you use?

An inexpensive infrared temp gun will suffice for measurement. You just have to get under the car while it's running, which would require a lift or jackstands, or something. You don't need super accuracy, you just need to determine if the cat's outlet temp is 100 - 300 degrees hotter than the inlet.

 

Unfortunately, the CAT monitor has to set before you can get those codes.

 

Morning Y2K,

I've got a floor jack and jack stands and wheel chocks so getting under it won't be an issue. I thought I had one of the infrared guns but it appears to be lost, along with at least 3 stud finders and a bunch of other tools in my garage, so I'll have to hit the interweb for another one.

 

Checking in. I finally got my CAT monitor to set. I'm pretty sure it was my downstream O2 sensor. I also found a vacuum leak and repaired it. Between the two things, the monitor set right up, no drive cycle or other nonsense. I think I'll do a separate thread on it, in case it's helpful to anybody else.

Before and after

 

Well done....

 

Excellent!

 

Outstanding Y2K. How did you determine it was the downstream O2 sensor? Did you take them all out and inspect them or was there some code or message you go on the OBD2? How many miles do you have on your car? Could a car with 63,000 miles have a bad sensor?

I used a bottle of that cat cleaner and have been driving it but I've still got the INC codes. I heard back from the people at iCarsoft and was told to download the most recent software for my OBD2. I did that and then when I plugged it in it reset everything so now I'm starting from scratch. I still have the INC on the same monitors.

I've tried to do those "drive cycles" that are on the list or the ones I've seen on youtube, especially the one where you warm the car up, drive it over 65 mph for a while, then let it coast to a stop, or almost a stop. Unfortunately, here in Southern California that is next to impossible during normal waking hours given a/ the traffic and b/ the number of people who just can't grasp the concept of how the lanes work with regard to one's speed on the freeway. It's about 6:00 a.m. here so I'm going to take the car out and run through that "drive cycle" again.

I think I'm going to order the O2 sensors just so I can do something with this thing to try and get it registered.

I spent 2 hours at DMV last week and finally left having not moved up 3 places on the waiting list. I was finally able to get into their website appointment section and schedule an appointment for next Friday. At least that will be one thing I don't have to deal with.

I'm going in for surgery on my left hand on Monday so my car fixing will be pretty much non existent for the next 2 weeks. Hopefully after that I'll be able to get under the car and replace all the sensors.

Feel free to message me directly with any secrets that might help cure this issue.

Joe

 

Last things first. If you don't have a AAA membership, get one. They have saved me so much time and stress when it comes to car registration, etc. Showing up at the DMV without an appointment is an incredible waste of time, but showing up at a AAA office without an appointment usually results in maybe a 10 minute wait.

The car's CAT monitor used to set, although it took an incredible amount of driving. Usually it would set sometime during a drive from my place to San Diego, and back. Ridiculous, but doable. While chasing EVAP issues I noticed that the CAT monitor would set, but I would start to see oddball mixture codes related to the RH O2 sensors. Usually too rich. I changed out the upstream O2 sensor and the codes went away, but then the CAT monitor wouldn't set. BTW, the Bosch 15627 is the same as Jag LNE1684BB. If you shop around using the Bosch number you can often find a much better price. I lucked out and got mine for $53 back in June. It's taken me this long to get the CAT monitor set, so I didn't buy a second one for the other side, and I'm now kicking myself.

Anyway, I drove and drove and it never set. The only thing that would cause this would be a bad cat or a bad downstream sensor. When it was possible I got under and measured the cat temps with a temp gun. I found they were both more or less correct, with the RH one 40 or 50 degrees F colder than the LH one, but that didn't seem like enough to cause the monitor not to set. So, I replaced the downstream LH side with a genuine Denso that I got for about $60. You can see by the pic that the old one was shot, and was probably original. During the drive after installation I started getting lean codes and even a restricted performance. I smoke tested the engine and found a good sized leak at the junction between the air intake pipe and the hose that goes to the RH valve cover. It had probably been leaking slightly for a while, but the latest removal had sent it over the edge. Not sure. After replacing the hose and driving 15 miles or so the CAT monitor set right up. BTW, before sensor replacement I had also put in a bottle of CRC's "Guaranteed to pass" fluid, which seems to be a stronger version of Cataclean. But after 20 or so miles of driving the monitor didn't set, so the fluid probably didn't help much.

The "drive cycle" thing is useless. The CAT monitor will set up within 30 or 40 miles, sometimes less, if everything is working. Once fully warm, it seems they like a few minutes at a steady speed, like 50mph. My "drive cycle" consists of driving back and forth from the shop to the house. Depending on the route taken I can drive a couple miles at a steady 50-ish speed. It's 6 or 8 miles each way. When everything is in order, the CAT monitors usually set after one or two round trips.

So, I suggest doing a smoke test if you haven't already, just to ensure you have no borderline lean conditions. If you do, repair and drive around for 25 or 30 miles. If the monitor doesn't set, downstream sensors are cheap and easy to replace. Do that. If that doesn't fix it within 25 or 30 miles, do the temp measurement thing. If all else fails, put in a spacer between the cat and the sensor, downstream. But that's not likely to be necessary unless you find you have a bad cat.

 

Thanks for getting back to me.

What did you use to do the smoke test. I've been looking at YouTube videos and think I've found one that looks easy enough to build and use. I'll see if I can get that done tomorrow so I can eliminate or look for that issue before surgery.

I'm going to order the O2 sensors so they'll be here when I'm able to start wrenching again.

Joe